Country_Boy

what would all you XJ owners recommend for changing out my oils. brand and viscosity for engine manual trans and diffs? its an I6 and AX15 tranny. Dana 30 front and Dana 35 rear. thanks

89stroker

run lucas heavy duty gear oil in difs and tranny. lucas tranny fluid in t case and a good 15-40 diesel oil with a bottle of lucas stabilizer in your engine and a wix filter. thats what i run...

89Laredo

I use valvoline maxlife semi synthetic 10w40 in mine, dont use fram filters. Wix, NAPA/NAPA Gold (made by wix or purolator), K&N or purolator.. You can look up the filter numbers in store, or online. Just remember that yours uses a Metric oil filter thread.

Look in your manual for Diff and Transmission fluid specs, Mostly Viscosity then you can get whatever brand you want.

Cherokee

AX15 requires a GL3 or 4 spec fluid, NOT just normal gear oil. Brass syncros will be gone if you use a standard GL 5.

suggestions for that include Redline MTL or MT 90 at the higher end, or Penzoil Syncromesh at the lower end. You can actually replace the tranny fluid with 10w 30 standard motor oil, but you'd have to change it sooner.


Engine- I run Castrol 10w 30 High Mileage motor oil. I don't use synthetic, but mostly because I believe standard oil was run through it it's whole life, so it would be wise not to switch so late in the game.

Differentials: I used Valvoline 75w 90 gear oil for both the Dana 30 and Dana 35. I also have a Trac Lok limited slip in the rear, so I added a friction modifier/limited slip fluid to that in addition to the gear oil. I think the brand was Trans-X or something, but really any will do. If you buy the right gear oil, many have the modifier already or do just fine without adding (ie synthetics). I believe many people use a Mobil 1 brand gear oil.

Transfer Case: Dex III would be the best, but Dex IV will work. I believe the original spec was for Dex II. Dex V is very different, so don't use that.

89stroker

cherokee your right i didnt think about the sychros. brass ones will wear alot faster if u dont use the exact oil. good thing you added that in

5-90

Engine - 10W-30 (winter) or 10W-40 (summer) API Service SL. Avoid API Service SM "Energy Saving" oil unless the MFR literature specifically says it's safe for use with flat tappet engines!

If all you can get is API Service SM, stock up on General Motors' Engine Oil Supplement (EOS) and add it at every oil change.

Transmission - the AX-15 uses bronze synchroniser rings. Therefore, use NLGI GL-3 gear oil - GL-4 is acceptable in the short term, and GL-5 should be avoided altogether. Why? In general, GL-4 and GL-5 have sulphur compounds added as an "Extreme Pressure" lube supplement - and sulphur is antagonistic to yellow metals (copper and copper-based alloys, like brass and bronze.) Use GL-5, and your next oil change will show a bunch of gold glitter - that's the bronze being dissolved.

NB: There are various "performance synthetics" out there that are NLGI GL-5, but use a different EP additive (and are therefore safe for use with yellow metals.) Check manufacturer literature - if it doesn't specifically say it's safe, assume it is not. NLGI GL-3 and GL-5 are both readily available, since NLGI specs (GL-1 through GL-6) are not reverse compatible like API engine oil specs are (All the way up to API Service SL - SM is antagonistic to flat tappet engines like the 242ci.)

Transfer Case - Any Dexron II/IIE/III/VI automatic transmission fluid will work. It's a simple lubricant, and it's circulated by a small gerotor pump (so gear oil is right out!)

Dana 30 front axle - NLGI Service GL-5, 75W-90 viscosity.

Dana 35 rear axle - NLGI Service GL-5, 75W-90 (standard service) or 80W-140 (severe service or towing.) Add two ounces of Limited Slip Friction Modifier if you have a clutch-based limited slip differential.

Capacities can be found on my site, in the Tech Archives. If you can't find your specific year, take one close to you - since you have the AX-15, you're going to be looking at 1990-up anyhow. All specs (to date) are from manufacturer literature - if I end up adding specs and such from other serious professional literature (Mitchell or Motor manuals,) I'll note that on the site.

Country_Boy

Thanks for all the info, this will help me greatly so i dont have to have some smart a$$ behind a counter tell me to get this and that cause thats who sponsors his shop.

5-90

A couple tips on that:

1) Avoid most national chains - that's where you find the wiseasses and droids. NAPA does a decent job of hiring countermen, but try to find the local "short chains" and the mom-and-pop stores - they usually have a better class of counterman. The corporate management mentality will end up wrecking competence (I have to change stores - my local sold out to CarQuest, and their personnel have declined in quality. And the really good countermen have already left for other locals.)

2) You're on the right track with knowing what you need when you walk in. This is why I explained the decision process as well - so you can explain it to your counterman if you feel he can be educated (whether they can or can't be taught is about an even money bet. If you get a shop with countermen who can be taught, stick with them!)

I've been swinging wrenches for about thirty years now (mostly as a hobby, sometimes getting paid for it,) I spend a couple of years actually running shops, and I spent three and a half years on the other side of the parts counter. So, I've developed a number of insights...

Country_Boy

thanks, yeah im 19, but im in school for mechanics, and i kno a lot for my age and a lot of ppl dont kno what there talkin about but they dont listen to me cause of my age. then i prove them wrong and yeah..haha but yeah theres a place here called Cut Rate Auto Parts. and its mom and pop. its one of the best places around

91familyxj

Not the thread jack or be off topic but why do you say no fram filters. I have ran fram oil filters forever but I also run a K&N air filter.

Country_Boy

fram is really cheap. its pretty much just paper. and it will clog and tear apart and just clog more. there okay..but unless they got a diff material and the mesh around it they just fall apart

91familyxj

Im not saying anything bad Im just trying to figure it out and learn something new. lol I do change my filter with every oil change. I just never really gave to much thought in it because I never had any problems with them. Does anyone make a washable filter?

89Laredo

Fram is made of cardboard, the end caps are glued on. In extreme cases, the glue comes loose, and it allows fluid to circulate unfiltered. It is also possible for the cardboard to degrade and send pieces through your engine.
The ADV (Anti Drainback Valve) is also sub-par and made out of a weak material, this allows oil to drain back into the pan, causing dry starts.

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oil...ence.html#fram

91familyxj

All that info is really awesome. Im a frim beliver in there is no dumb question except the one not asked. lol I didnt get to read all of it yet but alot. I feel like I need to go change my filter. lol Thanks again.

89Laredo

I use the MOPAR 090 on my girlfriends 96, they are made by Wix or Purolator. Good filters.
If you want a bigger one, I think the Motorcraft FL-1A is commonly used.. IIRC, it will increase your oil capacity by 1/2 QT