Flickering Lights
#1
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Year: 1994 Jeep Cherokee Sport
Flickering Lights
Hey Fellas,
Happy Spring! I have passed my sweet Jeep on to my son, but I can't miss out on the fun. Wrenches turn up!
Anyways, after changing the headlight switch, the lights are still flickering at night. Could it be another bad switch?
By the way, got the alternator, battery, and starter checked. They are all in good shape. Also cleaned the main plug, and got rid of corrosion.
Please help us troubleshoot this issue, I don't feel safe with my son driving around like this.
Thanks guys!
Happy Spring! I have passed my sweet Jeep on to my son, but I can't miss out on the fun. Wrenches turn up!
Anyways, after changing the headlight switch, the lights are still flickering at night. Could it be another bad switch?
By the way, got the alternator, battery, and starter checked. They are all in good shape. Also cleaned the main plug, and got rid of corrosion.
Please help us troubleshoot this issue, I don't feel safe with my son driving around like this.
Thanks guys!
#2
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Year: 2015, 2012
Model: Grand Cherokee (WK2)
Engine: 3.6L
Some people talk about a headlight wiring upgrade using an aftermarket kit on here. Some have to do this after putting in more powerful headlights it seems.
I don't know the specifics, but someone will probably chime in after while.
I don't know the specifics, but someone will probably chime in after while.
#4
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Yup.
It's a supplemental harness that takes the load off the headlight switch and the woefully underengineered headlight wiring.
Get this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CERAMIC-H4-H...-/330997592807
And do this:
Cruiser’s Headlight Upgrade Harness Instructions
It's easy to install a supplemental headlight harness.
From the factory, the voltage to the headlight bulbs travels from the battery, inside the cabin, to the headlamp switch, and then back out to the lamps via undersized wire. It's not uncommon to find only 10.5 volts at the lamps.
The supplemental harness is installed so that it provides battery voltage to the lamps and is just triggered by the factory wiring. The result is about 30% brighter headlamps and headlight switches that don't melt and burn out.
Absolutely plug and play. Remove grille and headlamp bulbs. I fed my harnesses from the passenger side starting between the battery and the back of the headlamp housing, over to the driver side. Plug the driver side bulb into the new harness. Attach the new harness's ground wire under one of the small bolts on the radiator support after scraping the paint off under it. Attach the harness to the existing harness behind the grille working toward the passenger side. . Plug the new harness plug into passenger headlamp. Plug original headlamp plug into receptacle on new harness. Attach the ground for the passenger side just like you did the driver side under a radiator support bolt. Attach relays with provided bracket on the passenger side inner fender. Connect power wires to battery.
Revised 12/10/2012
It's a supplemental harness that takes the load off the headlight switch and the woefully underengineered headlight wiring.
Get this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CERAMIC-H4-H...-/330997592807
And do this:
Cruiser’s Headlight Upgrade Harness Instructions
It's easy to install a supplemental headlight harness.
From the factory, the voltage to the headlight bulbs travels from the battery, inside the cabin, to the headlamp switch, and then back out to the lamps via undersized wire. It's not uncommon to find only 10.5 volts at the lamps.
The supplemental harness is installed so that it provides battery voltage to the lamps and is just triggered by the factory wiring. The result is about 30% brighter headlamps and headlight switches that don't melt and burn out.
Absolutely plug and play. Remove grille and headlamp bulbs. I fed my harnesses from the passenger side starting between the battery and the back of the headlamp housing, over to the driver side. Plug the driver side bulb into the new harness. Attach the new harness's ground wire under one of the small bolts on the radiator support after scraping the paint off under it. Attach the harness to the existing harness behind the grille working toward the passenger side. . Plug the new harness plug into passenger headlamp. Plug original headlamp plug into receptacle on new harness. Attach the ground for the passenger side just like you did the driver side under a radiator support bolt. Attach relays with provided bracket on the passenger side inner fender. Connect power wires to battery.
Revised 12/10/2012
#6
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
#7
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: Golen 4.6L
After the repair jobs you have already tackled, installing a relay harness will be cake for you. When you get the harness and lay it out, you'll see exactly what you have to do.
If that harness doesn't come with zip ties, get some and use a few to secure it in place.
Cake.
If that harness doesn't come with zip ties, get some and use a few to secure it in place.
Cake.
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#9
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: Golen 4.6L
Not a criticism, WNJE. Ask away! But really, cake.
#10
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Year: 1994 Jeep Cherokee Sport
That's not how she works. She likes to ask a lot of questions and get it 100% straight in her head before she tackles a job. Then, when everyone thinks she's not going to actually do it, she suddenly posts that the job is finished. Not a criticism, WNJE. Ask away! But really, cake.
#11
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Year: 1994 Jeep Cherokee Sport
Yup. It's a supplemental harness that takes the load off the headlight switch and the woefully underengineered headlight wiring. Get this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/CERAMIC-H4-H...-/330997592807 And do this: Cruiser’s Headlight Upgrade Harness Instructions It's easy to install a supplemental headlight harness. From the factory, the voltage to the headlight bulbs travels from the battery, inside the cabin, to the headlamp switch, and then back out to the lamps via undersized wire. It's not uncommon to find only 10.5 volts at the lamps. The supplemental harness is installed so that it provides battery voltage to the lamps and is just triggered by the factory wiring. The result is about 30% brighter headlamps and headlight switches that don't melt and burn out. Absolutely plug and play. Remove grille and headlamp bulbs. I fed my harnesses from the passenger side starting between the battery and the back of the headlamp housing, over to the driver side. Plug the driver side bulb into the new harness. Attach the new harness's ground wire under one of the small bolts on the radiator support after scraping the paint off under it. Attach the harness to the existing harness behind the grille working toward the passenger side. . Plug the new harness plug into passenger headlamp. Plug original headlamp plug into receptacle on new harness. Attach the ground for the passenger side just like you did the driver side under a radiator support bolt. Attach relays with provided bracket on the passenger side inner fender. Connect power wires to battery. Revised 12/10/2012
#12
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
If it says it's for H4, it's fine.
#13
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Double check that the plug is tight on the switch. Presume you checked for corrosion in plug? If there are any "extra" grounds or relays in/on that circut check them. Check the plugs right at the lights that they are clean and tight.