Jeep died no start
#1
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Jeep died no start
The other day I was coming home from work and the jeep started bucking, then died. It restarted twice, barely ran then died again and haven't been able to start it again.
I figured I would throw a part at it cause it is normally the one that goes bad which is the crank position sensor. The jeep still would not start. Also, my jeep is looking to be a ODB1, even though it's build date is 2/96.
Anyways, I checked the coil and there is plenty of spark coming out. I then check a plug wire and the spark is very very weak.
I popped the distributor cap, and it was all oily inside. weird. I am going to assume, that my cam sensor pickup is probably bad if it has oil all over it and that could be the cause of no start ?
I tried to read the codes and my reader is saying there are no codes
Opinions please on the oil inside the cap ? do I need a new distributor ?
If there is oil all all the cam sensor, would that cause a no start ?
Thanks,
I figured I would throw a part at it cause it is normally the one that goes bad which is the crank position sensor. The jeep still would not start. Also, my jeep is looking to be a ODB1, even though it's build date is 2/96.
Anyways, I checked the coil and there is plenty of spark coming out. I then check a plug wire and the spark is very very weak.
I popped the distributor cap, and it was all oily inside. weird. I am going to assume, that my cam sensor pickup is probably bad if it has oil all over it and that could be the cause of no start ?
I tried to read the codes and my reader is saying there are no codes
Opinions please on the oil inside the cap ? do I need a new distributor ?
If there is oil all all the cam sensor, would that cause a no start ?
Thanks,
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BlueRidgeMark (07-28-2021)
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Year: 1995 RHD
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0l
If you're sparking then the crank + cam sensors are working. Clean up the cap and rotor arm contacts and give it a go just to see if it'll fire up.
As for the oil. clean up inside the distributor and try turning it over with the cap off and try and see where it's coming from. I'm guessing the only way oil can get inside one is up through the shaft bushing.
As for the oil. clean up inside the distributor and try turning it over with the cap off and try and see where it's coming from. I'm guessing the only way oil can get inside one is up through the shaft bushing.
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
If you're sparking then the crank + cam sensors are working. Clean up the cap and rotor arm contacts and give it a go just to see if it'll fire up.
As for the oil. clean up inside the distributor and try turning it over with the cap off and try and see where it's coming from. I'm guessing the only way oil can get inside one is up through the shaft bushing.
As for the oil. clean up inside the distributor and try turning it over with the cap off and try and see where it's coming from. I'm guessing the only way oil can get inside one is up through the shaft bushing.
The cap contact points for the plugs are pretty nasty, plus the button underneath is stuck,
So all in all if there is spark coming from the coil and there is some spark going to the plugs, then both sensors are working. So I should first try and get the cam sensor plate up, clean all the oil off, put a new cap and rotor on and try it ?
#6
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Year: 1996
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I do not know if the cam sensor is working as good. the spark off the plug wire is very weak. I was wondering if there is oil on the cam sensor, would it keep it from working good. I tried lifting up the cam sensor plate, and it is stuck to the distributor pretty good. Might end up breaking it trying to lift it.
The cap contact points for the plugs are pretty nasty, plus the button underneath is stuck,
So all in all if there is spark coming from the coil and there is some spark going to the plugs, then both sensors are working. So I should first try and get the cam sensor plate up, clean all the oil off, put a new cap and rotor on and try it ?
The cap contact points for the plugs are pretty nasty, plus the button underneath is stuck,
So all in all if there is spark coming from the coil and there is some spark going to the plugs, then both sensors are working. So I should first try and get the cam sensor plate up, clean all the oil off, put a new cap and rotor on and try it ?
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Year: 1995 RHD
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0l
The very fact that you are getting a spark should mean the cam sensor is good. A weak or bad cam signal would not result in a poor spark.
Nasty contacts would lead to a poor spark. By the button, do you mean the black/grey contact at the top centre inside the cap? That should be free to press in and spring loaded.
I'm only guessing with the oil coming up the shaft as I've never had an XJ distributor out, however I can't see any other path for oil to get in.
I would say minimum you should get a new arm, cap and leads due to the nasty contact points and investigate into the oil issue before buying a new/used distributor.
Nasty contacts would lead to a poor spark. By the button, do you mean the black/grey contact at the top centre inside the cap? That should be free to press in and spring loaded.
I'm only guessing with the oil coming up the shaft as I've never had an XJ distributor out, however I can't see any other path for oil to get in.
I would say minimum you should get a new arm, cap and leads due to the nasty contact points and investigate into the oil issue before buying a new/used distributor.
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
The very fact that you are getting a spark should mean the cam sensor is good. A weak or bad cam signal would not result in a poor spark.
Nasty contacts would lead to a poor spark. By the button, do you mean the black/grey contact at the top centre inside the cap? That should be free to press in and spring loaded.
I'm only guessing with the oil coming up the shaft as I've never had an XJ distributor out, however I can't see any other path for oil to get in.
I would say minimum you should get a new arm, cap and leads due to the nasty contact points and investigate into the oil issue before buying a new/used distributor.
Nasty contacts would lead to a poor spark. By the button, do you mean the black/grey contact at the top centre inside the cap? That should be free to press in and spring loaded.
I'm only guessing with the oil coming up the shaft as I've never had an XJ distributor out, however I can't see any other path for oil to get in.
I would say minimum you should get a new arm, cap and leads due to the nasty contact points and investigate into the oil issue before buying a new/used distributor.
I am going to assume that a very weak spark would keep the jeep from starting.
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Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
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FYI, that is not a valid test for fuel pressure. It will spray with 20 PSI, but it sure won't run.
You have solid spark coming out of the coil, so your cam sensor is fine. That lousy connection inside the cap is all you need to make it not run.
What is also not fine is all that oil in there.
It's coming up from below. I don't know if there are replaceable seals down there or if you have to replace the distributor.
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Year: 1996
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Thank you all for your input.
So, the first thing I will do is clean out inside the distributor, hopefully I can get the cam sensor cap loose without breaking it. I will replace the cap and rotor, and see if it cranks.
Hopefully I did not foul the plugs from trying to start it so much.
Then I should look at replacing the distributor.
I will report back and give you all updates.
So, the first thing I will do is clean out inside the distributor, hopefully I can get the cam sensor cap loose without breaking it. I will replace the cap and rotor, and see if it cranks.
Hopefully I did not foul the plugs from trying to start it so much.
Then I should look at replacing the distributor.
I will report back and give you all updates.
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Year: 1996
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ok gents have an update.
I finally got the new distributor cap, rotor, and plugs in. So She started up and ran. I took it for a drive for about 5 miles, then she died. I checked to make sure all connections were good. I tried to start her back up and she did. would run for a minute or so then die. So I continued to try drive her home, and the whole time she would start, get me about a mile then die.
So that is where I am it. if I let her sit for a minute, she will run for a minute, then die. then if I let her sit for a few minutes, she will be hard to start, but start up, clear out, then stumble and die. each time she starts it seems as she was somewhat flooded.
Does this sound like a coil issue, crank position sensor issue, or maybe a cam position sensor issue ?
??
I finally got the new distributor cap, rotor, and plugs in. So She started up and ran. I took it for a drive for about 5 miles, then she died. I checked to make sure all connections were good. I tried to start her back up and she did. would run for a minute or so then die. So I continued to try drive her home, and the whole time she would start, get me about a mile then die.
So that is where I am it. if I let her sit for a minute, she will run for a minute, then die. then if I let her sit for a few minutes, she will be hard to start, but start up, clear out, then stumble and die. each time she starts it seems as she was somewhat flooded.
Does this sound like a coil issue, crank position sensor issue, or maybe a cam position sensor issue ?
??
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Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
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Have you TESTED your fuel pressure yet?
Squirting out of the Schrader valve means as much as a politician's campaign promise.
TEST it. As in, with a GAUGE.
https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...+pressure+test
Squirting out of the Schrader valve means as much as a politician's campaign promise.
TEST it. As in, with a GAUGE.
https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...+pressure+test
#14
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
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Have you TESTED your fuel pressure yet?
Squirting out of the Schrader valve means as much as a politician's campaign promise.
TEST it. As in, with a GAUGE.
https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...+pressure+test
Squirting out of the Schrader valve means as much as a politician's campaign promise.
TEST it. As in, with a GAUGE.
https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...+pressure+test
But a question first, when she dies and i try to restart her, she cranks and cranks and cranks, and when she DOESN"T start, I smell fuel as if she is flooded. Then I try again, she cranks and cranks, then finally starts.
This happens every time with the fuel smell, right before she finally starts. Would you think, I am losing fuel pressure ?
#15
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Year: 1996
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I have not checked the fuel pressure yet.
But a question first, when she dies and i try to restart her, she cranks and cranks and cranks, and when she DOESN"T start, I smell fuel as if she is flooded. Then I try again, she cranks and cranks, then finally starts.
This happens every time with the fuel smell, right before she finally starts. Would you think, I am losing fuel pressure ?
But a question first, when she dies and i try to restart her, she cranks and cranks and cranks, and when she DOESN"T start, I smell fuel as if she is flooded. Then I try again, she cranks and cranks, then finally starts.
This happens every time with the fuel smell, right before she finally starts. Would you think, I am losing fuel pressure ?