Briarwood91

I recently had the CPS replaced thinking that was the issue. When the jeep would die while driving, sometimes it would start back up and other times it wouldn't. However, if I unplugged the CPS and plugged it back together, engine would start fine.
The jeep runs fantastic. Im thinking when the jeep does die its when the jeep has reached temp. When it does die while driving it tens to be a hurky jerky die instead of just quick stall. I really dont have a clue what to do. I cant keep dying in traffic and i dont want to play the replacing game. Any input ????????????

EEVEE

was it replaced with a genuine mopar sensor?

Briarwood91

Dont think so. It was ridiculously cold in my town so i had a local garage replace it for me. They probably just used one from advanced auto or autozone.

tjwalker

If you are having the exact same symptom with the new crank sensor, it is possible that the new crank sensor is failing.

But it could be something else. While the crank sensor is the #1 cause of "thermal" (heat related) failure, the #1 cause is the ignition coil.

If this were mine, I would let it run in the driveway until it dies. Then test the coil. You will need a manual and a meter to test both primary and secondary resistances.

Another sensor that can fail thermally (but it is more rare) is the camshaft position sensor, located inside the distributor.

Have you checked to see if there are any codes or pending codes? Easy to do on yours. I'd do it even if the check engine light isn't currently on. More on that below.

Good luck and keep us updated!
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Retrieving OBD codes on the Jeep Cherokee (XJ) OBD1 Models: 1991-1995

1) Start engine (if possible). Move transmission shift lever
through all positions, ending in Park. Turn A/C switch on and then off
(if equipped).
2) Turn engine off. Without starting engine again, turn
ignition on, off, on, off and on within 5 seconds. Record 2-digit
fault codes as displayed by flashing MIL.
3) For example, fault code 23 is displayed as flash, flash,
4-second pause, flash, flash, flash. After a slightly longer pause,
other codes stored are displayed in numerical order. When MIL begins
to flash fault codes, it cannot be stopped. Start over if count is
lost.

NOTE: A "5-5" will always occur to signal the end of the sequence. Some will flash the "1-2" code indicating a recent battery disconnect even if you haven't done it. Ignore these two codes, and mark down all others.

Briarwood91

Thanks tjwalker for the idea and response.
I couldnt get it to die in the driveway but an idea hit me while i was waiting. Every time it died, I would disconnect the CPS and reconnect it, then it would start right back up. SO. I wondered if it was possible a bad connection of something or short in that harness on the opposite side of the CPS. So while it was running i reached over and grabbed the cps connection near the harness and it SHUT OFF! So i need to investigate the harness some more. For the hell of it, i took electrical tape and taped the CPS harness up off the block so it wouldnt move a muscle while driving. I drove around for about 40 mins and couldn't get it to shut off. Im gonna drive it to work tomorrow and around town.
What would the female connection harnesss be called opposite of the CPS sensor? Looks like it goes to throttle and fuel.

Batman33165

Great idea, i had to do the same to my jeep. I ended up cutting the connectors off and now the wires are connected by butt connectors. Not the oem way to go but the jeep runs and have not had any problems.