Exhaust/Intake Manifold bolts
#1
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Exhaust/Intake Manifold bolts
I am replacing the cylinder head on my 2000 4.0 after one too many overheats. I am seeking knowledge/opinions about whether or not the intake/exhaust bolts have to be replaced. If so, could stainless steel bolts be used? I see no markings to suggest the OEM bolts are hardened nor do I see anything in the FSM.
As always, everyone's help is greatly appreciated!
As always, everyone's help is greatly appreciated!
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
While I'm not sure about your specific situation, I didn't have the need to replace mine during my 0331 project. They were not rusted in and did not break during removal and installation.
You will need a 14mm box end wrench or socket + extensions to get them out. That and a lot of patience
You will need a 14mm box end wrench or socket + extensions to get them out. That and a lot of patience
#3
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Thanks for the reply. I have mine out and am well on the path of reassembly. Mine were a little rusty and I used my wire wheel on my bench grinder to clean them up and I was just wondering if replacement was required. Thinking of going stainless steel.
#4
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I do not recommend stainless steel for this application. They don't have the strength requirements. Stainless steel fasteners should only be used in non-stress type applications. SAE Grade 8 Bolts should be the choice but others say Grade 5 will do. I used Grade 8.
You can buy kits at the auto parts stores. They do not include the conical washers however.
You can buy kits at the auto parts stores. They do not include the conical washers however.
#5
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Yes upon closer inspection I was able to see the 6 radial lines on the bolt head showing that it is a grade 8 bolt. I am surprised that that there is that much stress at this attachment. I suppose that holding both the intake as well as the exhaust is the reason.
#6
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just curious - why stainless? if torqued to spec the factory bolts will never give you a problem. every xj i've pulled manifolds off of cooperated. basically once you break the bolt loose it will back out with your fingers. i've worked on several that did this. i know the top of them get to looking bad, but don't let it fool you.
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I have always used ARP fasteners on my Chevy engines heads were always studs and their black oxide -8 as heads are removed often and the studs can stay in the block.
I asked ARP rep at a SEMA show about the stainless fasteners as I had planned on going to them that year, they gave me the same advice as Ken just did and a chart of where they were useful on the engine. Wish I could find that damn thing but was lost in several moves ago.
I asked ARP rep at a SEMA show about the stainless fasteners as I had planned on going to them that year, they gave me the same advice as Ken just did and a chart of where they were useful on the engine. Wish I could find that damn thing but was lost in several moves ago.
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#8
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Rust. I am just tired of dealing with rust on every component on which I work. I want to leave it a little better for the next person.