dg61683

I apologize if I call a component wrong name, 2000 Xj, Evap Canister in the rear near the rear differential, there is a fuel line that goes from a rubber line to metal and back to rubber, it appears to go to the evap canister, the steel line is all rusty what can I use to replace this line. I cannot seem to find this part anywhere, Also the housing that holds the canister is all rusty to, Now I believe the canister itself is plastic, any ideas?

attached are a couple of photos I found online

CCKen

That rusty steel line goes to the roll over valve on top of the fuel tank. Very common problem with it rusting out.

Most people (including myself) replace the steel line with a fuel rated hose. I can't recall the ID of the hose required but you will need a coupler to mate up with the rubber elbow that goes into the EVAP canister.

dg61683

where do you recall buying the parts and what do you mean by a coupler ? It looks like it just slides onto the rubber part, would a clamp work?

CCKen

I bought the hose at O'Reilly auto parts.

The coupler goes on the inside of the new hose to couple to the rubber elbow on the canister nipple.

The original configuration had a plastic tube coming off the roll over valve, it coupled to the steel tube with a rubber hose, then the steel tube went to the rubber elbow on the canister. When you remove the steel tube you need a coupler to take the place of the steel tube. These couplers are called hose barbs (also at O'Reilly), they are made of brass and have barbs on them. If you Google brass hose barb you should get an image of them. Lowes also carries them.

dg61683

when I pull these lines off, will if any fuel spill out? does the new line have to be steel or can I use 1 rubber hose rated for fuel?

dg61683

sorry "Most people (including myself) replace the steel line with a fuel rated hose."

CCKen

No fuel will spill out. The tube only carries fuel vapors.

dg61683

sweet thank you

CCKen

Be careful when removing the rubber tube section from the plastic tube that goes to the top of the fuel tank - don't pull on it. Use a razor blade to slit the rubber tube section so it will slide off easily.

CCKen

As far as the EVAP canister support bracket being rusty, you can remove the whole assembly and seperate the canister from the bracket so you can derust and paint the bracket. It's held on with three nuts. If they look rusted in place, use lots of penetrating oil on them before attempting to remove them. The nuts are Metric.

I used new stainless steel nuts, plain washers, and lock washers when I reinstalled mine.

dg61683

let say I pulled to hard and the hose for the rollover value came off, now what, the bolts on the tank dont want to crack loose, am I screwed?

CCKen

If you pulled the small rubber hose off the plastic tube to the roll over valve, that's fine. But if you pull the plastic tube out of the roll over valve, well....no, your not screwed....your massively screwed. You'll just have to replace the fuel tank because the roll over valve is not a field replaceable unit. Junk yard item.

The nuts [bolts] that hold the tank up are a PITA. Half the time you will end up snapping the bolts trying to get the nuts loose and will need new ones.

PocketsEmpty

When I did mine, I used 5/16" fuel rated hose and two little clamps. I did not need any sort of couplers. Did have to drop the tank, though. It wasn't too bad of a job. I replaced this line when I replaced my fuel pump.

dg61683

All I did is pull the rubber bushing off the check valve, granted I can drop the tank 4-6 inches I should be able to just slide it back on. The dame bolts are rusted and not moving, I just sprayed them again

PocketsEmpty

You won't need that rubber thing anymore anyways if you do the 5/8" hose. I got 8 feet of it and had a lot left over.