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Engine stalling/heat soak.
My 96 xj recently starting jolting as the power cuts out and stalls but rebounds pretty quick. Sometimes it’ll will almost want to die at idle and even died while in cruise doing 70 after many miles of cruising at that speed. My first thought was injectors. Could also be heat soak because it’s worst after shutting the jeep off to run in the store for 10 minutes while it’s already warm. Any help?
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Could be one thing or a few things at the same time causing it. Pull the trouble codes.
If you don't have a diagnostic scan tool yet most auto parts stores have one to loan. That will get you started down the right track. |
Originally Posted by ijeeep
(Post 3733531)
Could be one thing or a few things at the same time causing it. Pull the trouble codes.
If you don't have a diagnostic scan tool yet most auto parts stores have one to loan. That will get you started down the right track. |
Originally Posted by Reece Ortiz
(Post 3733519)
My 96 xj recently starting jolting as the power cuts out and stalls but rebounds pretty quick. Sometimes it’ll will almost want to die at idle and even died while in cruise doing 70 after many miles of cruising at that speed. My first thought was injectors. Could also be heat soak because it’s worst after shutting the jeep off to run in the store for 10 minutes while it’s already warm. Any help?
The ignition coil and fuel pump are also common suspects for heat-related failures. Check your engine ground wires too; a bad ground causes many electrical gremlins. |
Originally Posted by Roberto145
(Post 3733546)
Based on your symptoms, especially the hot stalling, the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS) is the most likely culprit. It's famous for failing when hot on 4.0L Jeeps, causing the exact jolting power loss you described.
The ignition coil and fuel pump are also common suspects for heat-related failures. Check your engine ground wires too; a bad ground causes many electrical gremlins. |
**UPDATE**
it was the CPS. Thanks Roberto145 for the input. After reading that it may be the case I was driving it this weekend on some hills in in the mountains and the trans temp got higher than regular driving; around 210*. With the trans at that temp the jolting problem was worse than ever almost to the point I thought I might not make the drive. Which made sense being that the cps is bolted to the bell housing and the problem seemed to only arise at high temps, with the trans temp at its highest and the jolting/ stalling at its worst, I knew I had to replace the CPS as soon as I got home. Bought the part from Napa and haven’t noticed the e problem since. It’s been two days and I’ve test driven it on some backroads with hills, all good. Thanks for the input. Hope this can help somebody else. |
Keep us updated on the status of the napa part please... Factory parts are getting tougher to find and the CPS is one of them...Unfortunately it's a commonly failed part if not using the factory unit...
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Originally Posted by Corky
(Post 3733699)
Keep us updated on the status of the napa part please... Factory parts are getting tougher to find and the CPS is one of them...Unfortunately it's a commonly failed part if not using the factory unit...
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Lack of OEM parts has been the death of the "Car Hobby" since the mid 90s
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