engine refreshment before swap?
#1
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l
engine refreshment before swap?
i plan on replacing the blown 4.0 from my jeep soon, with another 4.0l. im thinking that when i do it since ill be pulling it from the junkyard, i want to freshen the newer engine up a bit. im thinking on doing the following things
-all top end gaskets
-water pump
-starter
-head bolts
thats what ive thought of so far just brainstorming a bit, anything else i should look into doing? thanks ahead of time!
-all top end gaskets
-water pump
-starter
-head bolts
thats what ive thought of so far just brainstorming a bit, anything else i should look into doing? thanks ahead of time!
#4
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l
#5
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Year: 1999.
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0, I6
i plan on replacing the blown 4.0 from my jeep soon, with another 4.0l. im thinking that when i do it since ill be pulling it from the junkyard, i want to freshen the newer engine up a bit. im thinking on doing the following things
-all top end gaskets
-water pump
-starter
-head bolts
thats what ive thought of so far just brainstorming a bit, anything else i should look into doing? thanks ahead of time!
-all top end gaskets
-water pump
-starter
-head bolts
thats what ive thought of so far just brainstorming a bit, anything else i should look into doing? thanks ahead of time!
check out the last few pages of my build thread located in my sig, im currently in the process of doing the same exact thing to the new 4.0 im tossing in my xj. based on everything im upgrading and replacing i figure to add up to 100 hp to this engine. if you have any question comments feel free to ask on my build thread as i check that far more then posts i comment on lol.
#6
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Year: 1996
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Engine: 4.0l
#7
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Big 4.0L
all gaskets, rear main, oil pump, check the bearings I personally would replace the mains and rods, and oil filter adapter seal.
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#8
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Year: 1999.
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Engine: 4.0, I6
#10
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
These guys are really ringing your cash register aren't they.
If you do your RMS (which I also recommend) take a close look at the lobes on the cam (rotate the crank through to check each one) and see if any cam bearing is extruding metal. See if you can reach up behind the timing chain cover and see if you can move the timing chain in and out very much (if there's any doubt about the integrity of the chain, now's the time to change it). Check the distributor oil pump drive gear and cam gear for excessive wear.
If you are going to change the VC seal (go with Felpro kit), take a look at all the valve springs. See if any are cracked or look distorted. Pull #6 rocker arms and check for excessive wear in the rockers/pivots. See if #6 cylinder push rods are caked up inside. With all the rockers installed, rotate the crank at the damper to put each cylinder at TDC compression and check for excessive rocker play (supposed to have zero lash).
Eyeball all the freeze plugs, especially the one on the **** end of the engine. Camshaft plug as well.
If you do your RMS (which I also recommend) take a close look at the lobes on the cam (rotate the crank through to check each one) and see if any cam bearing is extruding metal. See if you can reach up behind the timing chain cover and see if you can move the timing chain in and out very much (if there's any doubt about the integrity of the chain, now's the time to change it). Check the distributor oil pump drive gear and cam gear for excessive wear.
If you are going to change the VC seal (go with Felpro kit), take a look at all the valve springs. See if any are cracked or look distorted. Pull #6 rocker arms and check for excessive wear in the rockers/pivots. See if #6 cylinder push rods are caked up inside. With all the rockers installed, rotate the crank at the damper to put each cylinder at TDC compression and check for excessive rocker play (supposed to have zero lash).
Eyeball all the freeze plugs, especially the one on the **** end of the engine. Camshaft plug as well.
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