kengofff

Try to get a new one or one from a junk yard, the last thing you want is for that hose to leak and start a fire.

extrashaky

Replace the steel hard line. Spec pressure is 49 psi plus or minus a few psi, so you can have more than 50 psi in that pipe. That's not insanely high pressure, but I really wouldn't trust a rubber line given the risk involved with a leak. Imagine it failing. It would spray gasoline everywhere. It's also right above the exhaust manifold, which is probably hotter than the flashpoint for gasoline.

jpz

As others have said, don't use a rubber line. Recently replaced all my freeze plugs and my fuel line was leaking from the same spot. I was in a pinch, and out of time for the day and needed my Jeep for the next day so I cut the fuel line, and patched it with with a rubber line. I got a couple weeks out of it before the two lines separated and blew fuel all over. Luckily, it happened as I pulled out of my driveway so there was no real heat in the engine yet. But there was more than enough gas everywhere that I would have been very concerned on a full temperature engine.

I have since repaired my fuel line using a compression fitting that cost a few $$ from my auto parts store in the "fuel line repair" section.

worklist

Well, the job is finished and the Jeep runs fine with its new/rebuilt TUPY head. I did end up buying a good used steel fuel line, since I found one close by.

It is about as straightforward as any head replacement, no cams or timing to worry about and a good old cast iron head. A couple notes I'd pass along:

Leaving the manifold attached to exhaust exhaust system cost about an hour getting that last manifold bolt in between the cat converters. If I had the exhaust gaskets in hand, I would have un hooked before the cats. Took a variety of wobbly extensions and cuss words to get that bugger threaded straight. Recommend buying new manifold bolts and studs as well as head bolts. why go though all that effort and re used old and possibly overtorqued fasteners.

I changed the oil before startup, despite it being cold, and glad I did, as there was a fair amount of moisture in it, and as we know, oil is compromised whenever a engine overheats.

It is good to have assembly lube on hand for top of valves, push rods, etc. Also good to have on hand the little plastic bits and tubes (PCV) on top of the valve cover, as they tend to break. Be careful with that steel fuel line, although mine was already compromised, same with clip at end of kickdown cable. Also found the rubber elbows for the manifold vacuum lines were rotted, and would have bought these also. Had to make vacuum line loops for these, for now.

Despite seeing a good video where the guy reminds one about the back drivers side head bolt being too long to fit under body flange, I forgot, and put the head on without prepositioning it. Rather than take the head off again and risk gasket damage, I hack sawed about a half inch off that bolt and dressed with a 12MM x 1.75 die, still leaving enough thread to secure the ground strap that is supposed to attach there.

Anyway, happy wife, happy life, as they say. She got her zippy XJ back and doesn't have to drive one of the trucks or my diesel 'Benz. Have a good T day if you do that.