Engine dies while driving
11-19-2015, 02:01 PM
#16
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Thanks for the heads up..all years seemingly being affected? Or earlier models due to them being around for longer?
11-19-2015, 03:19 PM
#17
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Year: 1989 Limited
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: I-6 4.0L AMC Renix
Well within the past few months if heard quite a few of these problems come up, including for me. Either it's just a coincidence or it's an aging thing. I mean my xj is from '89 and my dad's is a 95 Grand Cherokee and my dad needed a new ecu at the end of last year and now for me this year. It's quite odd.
12-10-2015, 09:53 PM
#18
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Model: Cherokee
So, I'm not sure if you have the problem fixed yet as I don't see a post saying so, but my 99 WJ had this problem when I first bought the vehicle from the last owner. It had 162k miles and I got it for 2000$. Besides the fact, the first week driving it around, it started to shutdown every other drive it seemed. Normally happened once jeep got to operating temp. Then all gauges would die, jeep would die. Radio stayed on. I replaced the CPS, and ran all sorts of multimeter tests. After all the frustration, I ended up buying a new ECM. What was happening (and was told this is a common thing by a dealer and multiple mechanics) the inside of the ECM was loosing connections when it got hot (operating temperature). I was told that the current ECM on the jeep couldnt be opened because there was silicone in it to prevent the heat from messing with it. So I was forced to buy a new one. The ECM cost me right at 500$ new, and 100$ for programming. This was not done at a dealer. This was done about 6 months ago, and I have yet to have an issue with it since. I'm new to this site and will try to answer anyone with questions about this issue or something like it.
12-11-2015, 09:28 PM
#19
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
So, I'm not sure if you have the problem fixed yet as I don't see a post saying so, but my 99 WJ had this problem when I first bought the vehicle from the last owner. It had 162k miles and I got it for 2000$. Besides the fact, the first week driving it around, it started to shutdown every other drive it seemed. Normally happened once jeep got to operating temp. Then all gauges would die, jeep would die. Radio stayed on. I replaced the CPS, and ran all sorts of multimeter tests. After all the frustration, I ended up buying a new ECM. What was happening (and was told this is a common thing by a dealer and multiple mechanics) the inside of the ECM was loosing connections when it got hot (operating temperature). I was told that the current ECM on the jeep couldnt be opened because there was silicone in it to prevent the heat from messing with it. So I was forced to buy a new one. The ECM cost me right at 500$ new, and 100$ for programming. This was not done at a dealer. This was done about 6 months ago, and I have yet to have an issue with it since. I'm new to this site and will try to answer anyone with questions about this issue or something like it.
It sucks that your issue was (seems to be) the more expensive computer. Hopefully you're issues are gone for good as well.
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318SixPack (09-04-2019)
09-04-2019, 07:04 PM
#20
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.7
He says ECM...She says PCM....let's call the whole thing off.
So, I'm not sure if you have the problem fixed yet as I don't see a post saying so, but my 99 WJ had this problem when I first bought the vehicle from the last owner. It had 162k miles and I got it for 2000$. Besides the fact, the first week driving it around, it started to shutdown every other drive it seemed. Normally happened once jeep got to operating temp. Then all gauges would die, jeep would die. Radio stayed on. I replaced the CPS, and ran all sorts of multimeter tests. After all the frustration, I ended up buying a new ECM. What was happening (and was told this is a common thing by a dealer and multiple mechanics) the inside of the ECM was loosing connections when it got hot (operating temperature). I was told that the current ECM on the jeep couldnt be opened because there was silicone in it to prevent the heat from messing with it. So I was forced to buy a new one. The ECM cost me right at 500$ new, and 100$ for programming. This was not done at a dealer. This was done about 6 months ago, and I have yet to have an issue with it since. I'm new to this site and will try to answer anyone with questions about this issue or something like it.
09-04-2019, 07:45 PM
#21
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Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Welcome to the forum, dogydo, but, uh.... well.....
- You are replying to a thread that has been dead for 4 years.
- You are in the wrong section of the forum. You need to post in the Grand Cherokee section.
09-05-2019, 01:49 AM
#22
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Year: 96
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
otherwise it is usually a process of elimination by replacing other suspect parts, with the ECU/PCM more or less a last resort, especially those than need a VIN re-code
09-08-2019, 01:50 PM
#23
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.7
not usually a cost effective one, unless your mechanic is a Jeep guru, with vast experience of that situation
otherwise it is usually a process of elimination by replacing other suspect parts, with the ECU/PCM more or less a last resort, especially those than need a VIN re-code
otherwise it is usually a process of elimination by replacing other suspect parts, with the ECU/PCM more or less a last resort, especially those than need a VIN re-code
If I were a smart long time guy on this forum (better or worse, I'm just a novice) but if I were one of those smarties, I would say..."don't listen to the bonehead old timers and their scanners....go straight to the PCM. Take it out (its easy) get it tested. Stop using those code scanners and replacing all the sensors anyway. The scanner cant tell you the problem...neither will this forum." Coming from some fool who lost his way to this lost forum and this important, albeit lost, sadly misunderstood thread....My dumb advise.
Face it...Its a faulty PCM...replace it (+/- $150) BEFORE you start scanning everything...and eventually...replacing all the sensors....then, eventually finally replacing the PCM. And boast....exactly what I'm about to say...on an old post in this forum....about the "1999 WJ sputtering and stalling at any speed...please help".
I IDENTIFIED THE PROBLEM....AND NARROWED SOLUTION DOWN TO..... "THE FIX!" Yes, it is true, I FIXED IT!! My beloved Jeep now runs like a Champ!
09-08-2019, 02:02 PM
#24
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.7
Word to the wise. I respectfully disagree with every post, thread, forum, all Jeep gurus alive in the world and their respective forums, dealerships, uncles, etc. 99-04 WJ Grand Cherokee Limited have erratic PCM confusion for multiple reasons. Much like a well intended forum admin, but it doesn't matter how or why its logical to tackle the sensors first. Scan all day if you want, then replace sensors, then do it again, then replace another sensor...and again and again. In the end...you'll just end up replacing the PCM.
09-08-2019, 06:37 PM
#26
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Year: 96
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Face it...Its a faulty PCM...replace it (+/- $150) BEFORE you start scanning everything...and eventually...replacing all the sensors....then, eventually finally replacing the PCM. And boast....exactly what I'm about to say...on an old post in this forum....about the "1999 WJ sputtering and stalling at any speed...please help".
I IDENTIFIED THE PROBLEM....AND NARROWED SOLUTION DOWN TO..... "THE FIX!" Yes, it is true, I FIXED IT!! My beloved Jeep now runs like a Champ!
08-11-2020, 03:22 PM
#27
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Year: 1993
Model: Grand Cherokee (ZJ)
Engine: 6.0 inline 6
First off, I appreciate it if anyone makes it through this long post. My fiance is using my 2001 XJ Auto 164,000 mile rig as her daily driver, so fixing this matters. If she didn't need it every day for work I'd probably let it sit outside and tinker with it whenever I had free time. Alas, this is no longer the case.
A little background,3 years and 30,000 miles ago I had a trail failure of the crankshaft position sensor. We had to use an Advanced Auto sensor because there were no dealerships or parts depots in the area. It was a horrible experience replacing it on a cold October afternoon, 4 miles from a road and about 80 miles from home, with the sun setting and rain coming, but we got it in and I haven't had any related issues, until maybe now. I know a Mopar sensor is preferred.
2 weeks ago I finally got around to replacing the fuel pump with a Bosche unit. I had been living with a “prime it 3 times before start” procedure for 4 years, but decided to replace it before it failed on me. During this repair I noticed that the evap line going to the canister was very rusty and the rubber fittings are pretty beat up. I assume this is causing my small evap leak code. Now it starts up immediately, no extended cranks and no priming needed.
Onto the big problem: engine dies while driving. Takes multiple attempts to start, always starts after an extended crank. Always dies within 3-5 minutes of engine starting up cold.
9/6 1st occurrence:
Sunday afternoon driving to Kohl's. Got 2 miles from home and it died. Tach does a slight gauge sweep, it’ll climb about 500 revs then drop back to normal, and it does this 2 or 3 times. Engine speed doesn’t increase during the tach sweep, but there is a minor hesitation, then the engine shuts down. 3-4 starting attempts, no start. Sat scratching my head for 2 minutes, finally extended crank and start. Drove it to Kohl’s, then a few test drives with no problems.
9/6 2nd occurrence:
Sunday night on my way home from my aunt's, it had been sitting for about 6 hours. Got maybe 2 or 3 miles from Aunt's house and died. Gauges did their weird sweep again before engine failure. This time the CEL came on as we were coasting to a stop. CEL was 2 instances of P1391,CMP or CKP Signal Intermittent Condition. Cleared the code and sat on the side of the road for a good 5 minutes trying to start it. It finally started after an extended crank and we drove home.
I did a bit of searching and decided to replace the camshaft position sensor.
9/7 Cam sensor replacement
I replaced the cam sensor, took it for a bunch of test drives with multiple ignition cycles, no problems. Went to Wegman's, it sat for about an hour while we shopped, then it wouldn’t start. This was the first and only time it wouldn’t start after sitting; the other 2 failures were while we were driving. After 3 attempts to start it, I used a screwdriver and checked pressure at the fuel rail by pressing in the pintle valve, and there was pressure (I didn't have a fuel gauge to check the actual pressure). After 2 more attempts to start, I tapped on the new cam sensor while my fiancé cranked the engine, and it started.
At this point I assumed it was a faulty replacement sensor, so I swapped it for another. Did a few test drives with several ignition cycles, no problems.
9/8 Katie drove to work, no problem
9/9 3rd occurrence:
Katie got about a mile down the road and the engine shut off, this time with the same gauge sweep. However, right before it stalled the CEL came on, for a small evap leak. This is ongoing and I don’t believe it to be related. After 2 attempts, she was able to drive it back home.
Today I did some more research, and ended up checking the timing of the cam sensor for possible slop in timing chain, but my timing is right on using the “toothpick” method (aligning the 2 holes in the cam sensor and housing when cyl 1 is at TDC)
I'm thinking I need to replace that AZ crank sensor with a Mopar one, but before I do, does anyone have any other ideas?
If you've made it all the way through this post, thank you for your time.
A little background,3 years and 30,000 miles ago I had a trail failure of the crankshaft position sensor. We had to use an Advanced Auto sensor because there were no dealerships or parts depots in the area. It was a horrible experience replacing it on a cold October afternoon, 4 miles from a road and about 80 miles from home, with the sun setting and rain coming, but we got it in and I haven't had any related issues, until maybe now. I know a Mopar sensor is preferred.
2 weeks ago I finally got around to replacing the fuel pump with a Bosche unit. I had been living with a “prime it 3 times before start” procedure for 4 years, but decided to replace it before it failed on me. During this repair I noticed that the evap line going to the canister was very rusty and the rubber fittings are pretty beat up. I assume this is causing my small evap leak code. Now it starts up immediately, no extended cranks and no priming needed.
Onto the big problem: engine dies while driving. Takes multiple attempts to start, always starts after an extended crank. Always dies within 3-5 minutes of engine starting up cold.
9/6 1st occurrence:
Sunday afternoon driving to Kohl's. Got 2 miles from home and it died. Tach does a slight gauge sweep, it’ll climb about 500 revs then drop back to normal, and it does this 2 or 3 times. Engine speed doesn’t increase during the tach sweep, but there is a minor hesitation, then the engine shuts down. 3-4 starting attempts, no start. Sat scratching my head for 2 minutes, finally extended crank and start. Drove it to Kohl’s, then a few test drives with no problems.
9/6 2nd occurrence:
Sunday night on my way home from my aunt's, it had been sitting for about 6 hours. Got maybe 2 or 3 miles from Aunt's house and died. Gauges did their weird sweep again before engine failure. This time the CEL came on as we were coasting to a stop. CEL was 2 instances of P1391,CMP or CKP Signal Intermittent Condition. Cleared the code and sat on the side of the road for a good 5 minutes trying to start it. It finally started after an extended crank and we drove home.
I did a bit of searching and decided to replace the camshaft position sensor.
9/7 Cam sensor replacement
I replaced the cam sensor, took it for a bunch of test drives with multiple ignition cycles, no problems. Went to Wegman's, it sat for about an hour while we shopped, then it wouldn’t start. This was the first and only time it wouldn’t start after sitting; the other 2 failures were while we were driving. After 3 attempts to start it, I used a screwdriver and checked pressure at the fuel rail by pressing in the pintle valve, and there was pressure (I didn't have a fuel gauge to check the actual pressure). After 2 more attempts to start, I tapped on the new cam sensor while my fiancé cranked the engine, and it started.
At this point I assumed it was a faulty replacement sensor, so I swapped it for another. Did a few test drives with several ignition cycles, no problems.
9/8 Katie drove to work, no problem
9/9 3rd occurrence:
Katie got about a mile down the road and the engine shut off, this time with the same gauge sweep. However, right before it stalled the CEL came on, for a small evap leak. This is ongoing and I don’t believe it to be related. After 2 attempts, she was able to drive it back home.
Today I did some more research, and ended up checking the timing of the cam sensor for possible slop in timing chain, but my timing is right on using the “toothpick” method (aligning the 2 holes in the cam sensor and housing when cyl 1 is at TDC)
I'm thinking I need to replace that AZ crank sensor with a Mopar one, but before I do, does anyone have any other ideas?
If you've made it all the way through this post, thank you for your time.
Until the ignition coil decided to die, causing me to stall out on the highway and have a friend tow me home. I thought the no name CPKS failed on me. So I bought another name brand and replaced it. Jeep would crank, but not start still.
Finally pulled my multimeter out and ignition coil was bad.
Hasn't stalled on me since... I'm a newbie to Jeep and auto mechanics. Jeep Forums, YouTube and my Haynes manual are my go to resources!
Best of luck and much aloha to you and your fiance
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