Battery/alternator help
#1
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Year: 1999
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Battery/alternator help
I'm sure this question will annoy some people but I'm gonna ask. Here are the facts. 99 Cherokee 4wd, 4.0 auto.
Was driving down the interstate today and all of a sudden check gauges light lit up. Looked around the panel and saw that the battery needle was buried at the nine. What does this mean? I need a new battery or new alternator right? I got my battery tested back in December and was told it was good to go. Any thoughts?
Was driving down the interstate today and all of a sudden check gauges light lit up. Looked around the panel and saw that the battery needle was buried at the nine. What does this mean? I need a new battery or new alternator right? I got my battery tested back in December and was told it was good to go. Any thoughts?
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Year: 1991
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I'm sure this question will annoy some people but I'm gonna ask. Here are the facts. 99 Cherokee 4wd, 4.0 auto.
Was driving down the interstate today and all of a sudden check gauges light lit up. Looked around the panel and saw that the battery needle was buried at the nine. What does this mean? I need a new battery or new alternator right? I got my battery tested back in December and was told it was good to go. Any thoughts?
Was driving down the interstate today and all of a sudden check gauges light lit up. Looked around the panel and saw that the battery needle was buried at the nine. What does this mean? I need a new battery or new alternator right? I got my battery tested back in December and was told it was good to go. Any thoughts?
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if not the alt. i would be supprised. but i guess the only thing i can think of, assuming the dummy gauge is working properly, is a slipping belt, of bad pulley bearings. but there would be more symptoms if this were the case. things like your belt squealing...
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Year: 99
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My 91 did the same. Alternator is dying. Replace it with a good one (not Autozone AND ESPECIALLY not Advance. Go NAPA or O'Reily). Have the battery load tested to, but with the needle burying while driving, it screams alt to me. Before anything, check ALL your ground cables. Make sure they're clean and tight. If those and the terminals are ok, then the alt is probably next in line.
#5
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It started taking a few extra seconds to start yesterday and then all of a sudden the guage died off on the way home this afternoon c
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If it was showing low it very well could be the alt. Id lean away from the battery as it doesn't do much once the truck is running.
Did any lights or anyrlthing else dim? Radio face not as bright?
Did any lights or anyrlthing else dim? Radio face not as bright?
#7
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Also, just in case anybody know of an idiot proof write up for DIY alternator replacement? I'm getting better at working on her, but only the stuff I have done before.
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Originally Posted by Gee oh Dee
If it was showing low it very well could be the alt. Id lean away from the battery as it doesn't do much once the truck is running.
Did any lights or anyrlthing else dim? Radio face not as bright?
Did any lights or anyrlthing else dim? Radio face not as bright?
#10
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Originally Posted by Isaac
Just in case, I'd check the voltage with a multimeter to make sure the gauge hasn't lost its mind.
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Yeah, they could test it. If not, you can pick up a cheap multimeter at walmart/auto parts stores/home improvement stores. Pretty much any ol' meter will do for this, doesn't have to have a fancy Fluke or anything.
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I-6 4.0 HO
1996 Nissan Sentra - Autozone- 2 failed within a year.
Dad's Chevy Metro- Advance- Failed with a year
Friends Explorer- Autozone -Failed then Advance- Also failed
The list goes on. Go to A/Z to have the load tested (but be cautious. The charging system will play cat and mouse. My alternator would show low volts, and by the time I got to A/Z would have 14. The field circuit is unpredictable when failing.)
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Go to autozone, advance, etc....
1. Any big box parts store can load test the entire charging system in the vehicle.
2. Before doing #1 check, belt for wear/glazing/cracks, with engine idling listen to the bearings ( use long screwdriver as stethiscope), Last but most important Check/ Clean ALL Connections, Grounds especially the engine to body ground strap. As any of these can cause a false reading when testing.
1. Any big box parts store can load test the entire charging system in the vehicle.
2. Before doing #1 check, belt for wear/glazing/cracks, with engine idling listen to the bearings ( use long screwdriver as stethiscope), Last but most important Check/ Clean ALL Connections, Grounds especially the engine to body ground strap. As any of these can cause a false reading when testing.
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Originally Posted by fishtaconc
Go to autozone, advance, etc....
1. Any big box parts store can load test the entire charging system in the vehicle.
2. Before doing #1 check, belt for wear/glazing/cracks, with engine idling listen to the bearings ( use long screwdriver as stethiscope), Last but most important Check/ Clean ALL Connections, Grounds especially the engine to body ground strap. As any of these can cause a false reading when testing.
1. Any big box parts store can load test the entire charging system in the vehicle.
2. Before doing #1 check, belt for wear/glazing/cracks, with engine idling listen to the bearings ( use long screwdriver as stethiscope), Last but most important Check/ Clean ALL Connections, Grounds especially the engine to body ground strap. As any of these can cause a false reading when testing.