Distributer and yes i suck at spelling
 

OK should the distributer move at all? not the cap i mean the whole thing.... it moves up and down when you pull on it.. about a millimeter maybe less and turns side to side about 4 millimeters maybe more.... now if i am correct in thinking if that thing can move it would F*** spark timing????? any sugestions? i dont want to buy a whole new one.... I was planing on cap and wires but a whole new one is like $130.....

tighten the mounting bolt. Under the front side of it. 3 o'clock position. Yes that will change your timing. If you don't have a timing light take it to a shop to have it timed and tightened.

As far as I know the distributor is locked in place.
 

Everyone Ive talked to says the timing cannot be changed by rotating the distibutor. The computer takes care of it. my .02cents.

Man that sucks I really cant afford anything shop wise I will just tighten it down and hope for the best its an 87 so i dont know if the computer handles the timing

Have you tuned it up?
 

Plugs wires cap rotor etc. Gap the plugs right. There also ignition upgrades too.

Advance Auto is showing one for a 87 4.0 for $54.00

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...EAMS_516400590___

The bottom of the distributor shaft is, if memory serves, a gear that mates with the camshaft. On an '87, you might be able to change the timing, I don't know, but the gear should have just a tiny bit of backlash/movement. Up and down? A milimeter does not sound like a big deal.

Is this thing running poorly? If it runs well...tighten the hold-down bolt and forget it. If it runs bad, drop a new distributor in there and time it.

I don't ever remember changing plugs and wires and seeing a dramatic improvement. Cap and rotor, yes. Wires have, for me, only been a problem in damp weather and when plugs get so bad they misfire, it's usually just one...then another a month later...then another three months later. They don't all go at once which I think is why I never see major improvement. If mine is missing a bit, I check plug gap. If plugs are bad (rare), I replace.

You're going to have some movement, as long as the thing is running good don't worry about it.

Are you sure about movement I've never seen a dis move unless it was loose.I'm not looking for a fight its just in all my years i've never seen one move unless it was loose.:surrender:

Are you talking about the rotor blade under the cap? Or are you talking about the distributor assembly?
The rotor shaft its self will have a little bit of play "up down" shouldn't be left or right.
The hole assembly cap and shaft from block needs to be tight.

yes it was loose tighten it down and i have no problems it was running exactly the same before i tightened it i am going to do the plugs when i pull the head.. wires i decided that there really should be much of a difference between new and what is on there.... I am still at a loss about new cap and rotor... the one that is on there doesnt really look old... it is the exact one i looked at in autozone only thing i dont know about are how good the points are... but i know nothing about things like that.... trying to cut costs down as i am about to under take a S*** storm..... new fluid/seals on front and rear axles.... new oil pan gasket and M167HVS oil pump.. pulling the head doing a head gasket, port and polish, maybe deck it... new trans pan gasket and filter... since i have to undo the front shocks and steering dampener to get the oil pan out anyway i figure now would be a good time to replace them.... I was just planning on getting the cheapo's from autozone $16.99 each because down the line i will do a lift and have to get new ones anyway.. Any thoughts on anything i might be over looking? total for everything above so far is under $225 its $250 if i get the cap and rotor.... still not sure if i should? if it runs ok now should i do the cap and rotor?

Doing the cap and rotor would be a good idea also check your timing with a timing light.

I put a new Distributor in my '89. It DOES matter if you don't mark EXACTLY where things were when you removed them. I didn't mark mine, put the new one in and it didn't even start. So I had to put cylinder #1 at TDC and align the distributor and rotor to match it. MUCH easier if you just mark everything first... Learned my lesson....

Amen. I learned my lesson so many years ago I forgot when it was. I'll be everyone on this list that has messed with cars very much has done the same. These days, I label and take pictures.

Nope. My XJ is in great condition...sorta...it's not a beater, but it ain't no spring chicken either. I fix what breaks and leave the other stuff until it breaks. If it runs good, save your money.