DEATH WOBBLE!!
#1
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Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
DEATH WOBBLE!!
I just ordered a 4.5 inch rough country lift (I understand they aren't the best) for my 2000 xj. We installed it and of course I get a horrible death wobble. Going over 35 when you hit a bump the death wobble begins. Everything is tight and all the bushings are brand new on pretty much everything because it all came in the kit. I really want to solve it and have tried a lot, put more toe, add more caster, tighten everything extremely tight, new steering box(needed one anyway). And what I came to so far is maybe I need a different trac bar or trac bar set up. The very top bolt for my trac bar with the rubber thing on, that has a castle nut has play in it. IS IT SUPPOSED TO HAVE PLAY IN IT????!?!?!?!?!?! It goes up and down when you turn the wheel. I was looking at http://www.kevinsoffroad.com/cart/ha...wobble-p-1017/ to purchase because someone told me that fixed theres. I was thinking of http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merch...egory_Code=XSP to help me because I already have a brand new trac bar. I would love some help. I want to drive this thing on the highway to go places and travel but if I cant fix this I will unfortunately put a heavy steering stableizer and just mask it, I really don't want to but I have been trying to fix this for weeks.
#2
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
sounds like the tie rod end attached to the pitman arm is bad. any "give"/play in the steering is no good. that can easily cause your wobble.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/di...-wobble-55021/
http://www.yuccaman.com/jeep/dw.html
and there's some more reading for you. sometimes its easy sometimes it works its way around the system til its the last thing you do. have someone turn the steering back and forth and watch your linkages and trackbar any slop will be liable to give you death wobble.
Good luck with your endeavor sir.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/di...-wobble-55021/
http://www.yuccaman.com/jeep/dw.html
and there's some more reading for you. sometimes its easy sometimes it works its way around the system til its the last thing you do. have someone turn the steering back and forth and watch your linkages and trackbar any slop will be liable to give you death wobble.
Good luck with your endeavor sir.
#3
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO Straight Six
Your track bar is new you say? I'm assuming it's a new OEM replacement? In which case, isn't good at 4.5"
You need an adjustable double sheer track bar. The one from Iron Rock Offroad is a good one, and I'd suggest it.
Either way, the track bar is bad and guaranteed that's what's causing your death wobble. There shouldn't be any up/down play where you're seeing.
Do not just slap on a big fancy steering stabilizer and call it a day. I've seen pictures of track bars snapped. And you don't want that happening to you, wouldn't be fun. Get a QUALITY track bar. Spend the extra money, you get what you pay for. So yes, you NEED a double sheer. Iron Rock Offroad, Rock Krawler, Clayton, Ironman 4x4, Rubicon Express, etc.
You need an adjustable double sheer track bar. The one from Iron Rock Offroad is a good one, and I'd suggest it.
Either way, the track bar is bad and guaranteed that's what's causing your death wobble. There shouldn't be any up/down play where you're seeing.
Do not just slap on a big fancy steering stabilizer and call it a day. I've seen pictures of track bars snapped. And you don't want that happening to you, wouldn't be fun. Get a QUALITY track bar. Spend the extra money, you get what you pay for. So yes, you NEED a double sheer. Iron Rock Offroad, Rock Krawler, Clayton, Ironman 4x4, Rubicon Express, etc.
#4
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.6L stroker
Here
Check :
Adjustable track bar & make sure bracket is tight. Check Tre or heim on bar. Make sure the jam nut is on there and tight. Make sure the frame side isn't cracked around the bracket. Check axle side too.
Ball joints
wheel bearings
Tie rod
Drag link
Steering box & bolts
Pitman arm tre
Control arm bushings and CA bolts
Worn tires? Improperly balanced?
Sway bar should be connected and check the bushings & endlinks.
Find an alignment shop that handles lifted trucks
You should be familiar with the procedure of having a friend turn the steering wheel back and forth while your under there looking for loose/ worn parts. IMO at 4.5" of lift the factory y steering setup is a joke. Take your time thoroughly inspecting everything ive listed. Report back with your progress
Check :
Adjustable track bar & make sure bracket is tight. Check Tre or heim on bar. Make sure the jam nut is on there and tight. Make sure the frame side isn't cracked around the bracket. Check axle side too.
Ball joints
wheel bearings
Tie rod
Drag link
Steering box & bolts
Pitman arm tre
Control arm bushings and CA bolts
Worn tires? Improperly balanced?
Sway bar should be connected and check the bushings & endlinks.
Find an alignment shop that handles lifted trucks
You should be familiar with the procedure of having a friend turn the steering wheel back and forth while your under there looking for loose/ worn parts. IMO at 4.5" of lift the factory y steering setup is a joke. Take your time thoroughly inspecting everything ive listed. Report back with your progress
#6
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Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Your track bar is new you say? I'm assuming it's a new OEM replacement? In which case, isn't good at 4.5"
You need an adjustable double sheer track bar. The one from Iron Rock Offroad is a good one, and I'd suggest it.
Either way, the track bar is bad and guaranteed that's what's causing your death wobble. There shouldn't be any up/down play where you're seeing.
Do not just slap on a big fancy steering stabilizer and call it a day. I've seen pictures of track bars snapped. And you don't want that happening to you, wouldn't be fun. Get a QUALITY track bar. Spend the extra money, you get what you pay for. So yes, you NEED a double sheer. Iron Rock Offroad, Rock Krawler, Clayton, Ironman 4x4, Rubicon Express, etc.
You need an adjustable double sheer track bar. The one from Iron Rock Offroad is a good one, and I'd suggest it.
Either way, the track bar is bad and guaranteed that's what's causing your death wobble. There shouldn't be any up/down play where you're seeing.
Do not just slap on a big fancy steering stabilizer and call it a day. I've seen pictures of track bars snapped. And you don't want that happening to you, wouldn't be fun. Get a QUALITY track bar. Spend the extra money, you get what you pay for. So yes, you NEED a double sheer. Iron Rock Offroad, Rock Krawler, Clayton, Ironman 4x4, Rubicon Express, etc.
#7
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO Straight Six
Well assuming you bought the right size track bar for your lift then just take out the cotter pin (if you have one in), get out a fat wrench, and tighten that puppy down as much as you can. There shouldn't be amy play if it was torqued to spec. But then again, it is Rough Country.........
The IRO double sheer upgrade is worth the money. I'd recommend it
And FYI that rubber thing is called the tie rod end dust boot. It's made to hold grease in. Did you grease the track bar after tightening down the castle nut?
The IRO double sheer upgrade is worth the money. I'd recommend it
And FYI that rubber thing is called the tie rod end dust boot. It's made to hold grease in. Did you grease the track bar after tightening down the castle nut?
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#8
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Model: Cherokee
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Well assuming you bought the right size track bar for your lift then just take out the cotter pin (if you have one in), get out a fat wrench, and tighten that puppy down as much as you can. There shouldn't be amy play if it was torqued to spec. But then again, it is Rough Country.........
The IRO double sheer upgrade is worth the money. I'd recommend it
And FYI that rubber thing is called the tie rod end dust boot. It's made to hold grease in. Did you grease the track bar after tightening down the castle nut?
The IRO double sheer upgrade is worth the money. I'd recommend it
And FYI that rubber thing is called the tie rod end dust boot. It's made to hold grease in. Did you grease the track bar after tightening down the castle nut?
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO Straight Six
Well how much play is there? Half an inch? A millimeter?
That could definitely be the very cause of your death wobble. Even if that joint didn't have any play, it would ware out eventually. And probably not too far in the future. It's a great move to upgrade to double sheer now.
I don't remember if it drops the track bar at all. I don't think it does, but I could be wrong. If it did, it wouldn't be more than an inch
That could definitely be the very cause of your death wobble. Even if that joint didn't have any play, it would ware out eventually. And probably not too far in the future. It's a great move to upgrade to double sheer now.
I don't remember if it drops the track bar at all. I don't think it does, but I could be wrong. If it did, it wouldn't be more than an inch
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Year: 1989
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in your first post you said "The very top bolt for my trac bar with the rubber thing on, that has a castle nut has play in it. IS IT SUPPOSED TO HAVE PLAY IN IT????!?!?!?!?!?! It goes up and down when you turn the wheel ". That is your problem. Get the Iron Rock double sheer track bar. I have it and its awesome
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Year: 1996
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Engine: 4.0 HO Straight Six
One other thing, I'm not sure if the IRO double sheer conversion (so just the bracket and double sheer end, not the whole bar itself), will work with your existing track bar. I don't know if it'll just thread right in.
I'd honestly just spend the $200 on the whole double sheer bar from IRO
I'd honestly just spend the $200 on the whole double sheer bar from IRO
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One other thing, I'm not sure if the IRO double sheer conversion (so just the bracket and double sheer end, not the whole bar itself), will work with your existing track bar. I don't know if it'll just thread right in.
I'd honestly just spend the $200 on the whole double sheer bar from IRO
I'd honestly just spend the $200 on the whole double sheer bar from IRO
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO Straight Six
Yeah post that puppy up. The IRO bar is quality stuff. Very beefy. Unless you race your XJ through dunes and hitting woops at 50 MPH, the IRO double sheer bar will more than suit your needs
And that will definitely solve your crappy RC track bar. Unless your ball joints, lower control arms, tires, etc are worn to crap, that track bar should solve your DW issue
And that will definitely solve your crappy RC track bar. Unless your ball joints, lower control arms, tires, etc are worn to crap, that track bar should solve your DW issue
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