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Dana 30 axle seal.
hi all, I'm helping my son with his 98 XJ with a leaking front axle seal. Im told that I can use a aftermarket seal called Alloy Us Tube axle seal. These install in the outer end of the axle tube. This would save removing the ring gear and replacing the near axle seals. Im curious if this has been done successfully by you experienced Jeep guys. looking at the seals it makes sence. But I'm always worried about short cuts |
The tube seals are just to keep debris out of the axle tubes, they aren't for holding the gear oil in, if your inner axle seal is leaking you will have to replace it.
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I hit send to soon. the part number im looking at is 52420.911 sold by quadratec and they fit the stock 27 spline axle that's in the 98 XJ. All feed back appreciated. thanks, Joe |
Originally Posted by 00t444e
(Post 3495713)
The tube seals are just to keep debris out of the axle tubes, they aren't for holding the gear oil in, if your inner axle seal is leaking you will have to replace it.
That was my initial thought also. But the phone jockey at quadratic told me many people use them as a short cut. But that's why I'm asking you guys. I don't want to do this twice. thanks, Joe |
As a whole, the folks here will tell you it's best in the long run it to do the job right the first time.
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Originally Posted by Tbone289
(Post 3495731)
As a whole, the folks here will tell you it's best in the long run it to do the job right the first time.
I agree with with that advise. But every now and then a new product or idea makes the old way obsolete. I was hoping this might be one of those ideas. That's why I'm asking here. I figured you guys would know if this was a short cut worth taking. Thanks, Joe |
There is a video on youtube that shows how to do the inner seals and the outer dust seals. Lots of good detail given and I learned some things.
title: How To Replace Inner Axle Seals by : OutJeeping |
If you're going to go through the effort to pull the axle/hubs out (as would be required with tube seals), you're already halfway there with changing the axle seals properly. You might as well do it the right way.
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Thanks for the video tip BwannaBob. PatHenry, your right, that's probably what I will end up doing thanks, Joe |
Originally Posted by PatHenry
(Post 3495787)
If you're going to go through the effort to pull the axle/hubs out (as would be required with tube seals), you're already halfway there with changing the axle seals properly. You might as well do it the right way.
Way closer than half way lol your only the diff cover bolts and 4 internal bolts away from having everything out. I did it and it was quite the pain but worth it. Do both sides do NOT take a shortcut and only do the leaky side |
Originally Posted by PatHenry
(Post 3495787)
If you're going to go through the effort to pull the axle/hubs out (as would be required with tube seals), you're already halfway there with changing the axle seals properly. You might as well do it the right way.
make a spreader tool first. So it's even. |
Originally Posted by Oldsrip
(Post 3495791)
Thanks for the video tip BwannaBob. PatHenry, your right, that's probably what I will end up doing thanks, Joe Just a couple tips on the axle/hub pulling (from more experience in this area than I'd like... :) ) I'm not sure if the video has these, but I'll repeat them anyway. - Don't separate the axle from the hub, pull the hub/axle as a single unit. There's only 3 bolts (13mm 12-point IIRC) holding the hub in once the caliper is off. It's heavier than it looks, so use 2 hands. - Use the socket/bolt trick with the steering to pop the hubs out. This is a well documented tip and works great. Otherwise you'll go nuts trying to separate the hub from the knuckle. Just keep one of the bolts slightly threaded so you don't drop the hub. When I first got the hubs out I put a bit of anti-seize on the rim where the hub sits in the KNUCKLE (edit)... it makes it very easy to get out next time (and there WILL be a next time, unfortunately... :) ). - Once the axles are out you should closely inspect the u-joints and hub assemblies.. if they're bad, then NOW is a good time to replace them. You'll have to put the hub back in to get the axle nut off - but if you're replacing the hub bearing - put a torch to it and it will come right off. The center cap comes off the wheel rim (typically) if you need to put the tire back on to keep the wheel from spinning. I just use a big screwdriver. But I digress. Edit - further digression - IF you do separate the hub/axle, make sure you torque the axle nut to 180ft/lbs on re-installation. Improper torque will lead to bearing failure. (Ask me how I know... :) ) That gear oil is messy and stinks... like really stinks. I got it on a coat and couldn't get the smell out. Leave yourself enough time to clean up the diff cover (especially if it was RTV'd previously), diff housing and axle tubes. One guy recently used sockets and extensions to press the new seals in and apparently that worked well. Press the drivers side in first since you're going through the long side to get to it (unless you use a spreader tool as was mentioned), then the pass side (going through the shorter drivers side tube). Don't use threaded rod going through a new seal, lubed pvc pipe or socket extensions are good. |
Originally Posted by PatHenry
(Post 3495939)
I do feel your pain though. I have to do mine too.
Just a couple tips on the axle/hub pulling (from more experience in this area than I'd like... :) ) I'm not sure if the video has these, but I'll repeat them anyway. - Don't separate the axle from the hub, pull the hub/axle as a single unit. There's only 3 bolts (13mm 12-point IIRC) holding the hub in once the caliper is off. It's heavier than it looks, so use 2 hands. - Use the socket/bolt trick with the steering to pop the hubs out. This is a well documented tip and works great. Otherwise you'll go nuts trying to separate the hub from the knuckle. Just keep one of the bolts slightly threaded so you don't drop the hub. When I first got the hubs out I put a bit of anti-seize on the rim where the hub sits in the KNUCKLE (edit)... it makes it very easy to get out next time (and there WILL be a next time, unfortunately... :) ). - Once the axles are out you should closely inspect the u-joints and hub assemblies.. if they're bad, then NOW is a good time to replace them. You'll have to put the hub back in to get the axle nut off - but if you're replacing the hub bearing - put a torch to it and it will come right off. The center cap comes off the wheel rim (typically) if you need to put the tire back on to keep the wheel from spinning. I just use a big screwdriver. But I digress. Edit - further digression - IF you do separate the hub/axle, make sure you torque the axle nut to 180ft/lbs on re-installation. Improper torque will lead to bearing failure. (Ask me how I know... :) ) That gear oil is messy and stinks... like really stinks. I got it on a coat and couldn't get the smell out. Leave yourself enough time to clean up the diff cover (especially if it was RTV'd previously), diff housing and axle tubes. One guy recently used sockets and extensions to press the new seals in and apparently that worked well. Press the drivers side in first since you're going through the long side to get to it (unless you use a spreader tool as was mentioned), then the pass side (going through the shorter drivers side tube). Don't use threaded rod going through a new seal, lubed pvc pipe or socket extensions are good. Hey PatHenry, Thank you for the tips. I haven't watched the video yet but I will before I get into it. Whats this socket/bolt trick with the steering you mention? I will look into the spreader tools or installation of the new seal. I am very familiar with nasty old gear oil. Always pleasant, haha Is there a preferred brand of replacement seal? Thanks again, Joe |
The socket/bolt trick is essentially 1) Loosen the hub bolts, leave at least 1 in a few turns to keep the hub from dropping. 2) Take a deep socket or durable bolt and wedge it between the axle yoke ear and the axle body. You will want to spin the axle to get it in a good position. 3) Have a helper turn the key to "on" and slowly turn the steering wheel. The gist of it is that you're using the power steering to push the hub out of the knuckle. It will come out easily and you may not even notice it popped out.You can Google "remove hub bearing Jeep D30" and find some pics and videos. It's super easy and works great. As far as seal recommendation, I bought Spicer seals off Amazon (they were like $8 or so each), but haven't put them in yet.I feel like it's hard to go wrong with the OEM supplier part, but maybe someone who has tried others can chime in. Timken has a good reputation as well. Edit - I like that the Spicer seals are "Made in the USA". I may end up doing the seals this weekend since I'm in the middle of leaf spring replacement (and JK rubicon take off shock replacement all around) and already have the front jacked up with the tires off. |
Originally Posted by PatHenry
(Post 3496228)
The socket/bolt trick is essentially 1) Loosen the hub bolts, leave at least 1 in a few turns to keep the hub from dropping. 2) Take a deep socket or durable bolt and wedge it between the axle yoke ear and the axle body. You will want to spin the axle to get it in a good position. 3) Have a helper turn the key to "on" and slowly turn the steering wheel. The gist of it is that you're using the power steering to push the hub out of the knuckle. It will come out easily and you may not even notice it popped out.You can Google "remove hub bearing Jeep D30" and find some pics and videos. It's super easy and works great. As far as seal recommendation, I bought Spicer seals off Amazon (they were like $8 or so each), but haven't put them in yet.I feel like it's hard to go wrong with the OEM supplier part, but maybe someone who has tried others can chime in. Timken has a good reputation as well. Edit - I like that the Spicer seals are "Made in the USA". I may end up doing the seals this weekend since I'm in the middle of leaf spring replacement (and JK rubicon take off shock replacement all around) and already have the front jacked up with the tires off. I was curious on replacement seals. On my Sterling full float rear end in my truck it seems if I don't use Scotseal plus xl seal I end up with a leak. in that case it's much better than a factory Ford seal. In the case of the D30, spicer is probably as good as any. And made in the USA is a nice bonus. good luck on your spring and shock change. And on your front axle if you get that far. I'm not sure when I'm doing my sons xj. To many jobs at the moment. but will work it in soon. thanks, Joe |
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