Dana 30 axle seal.
06-13-2018, 04:45 PM
#16
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Location: Groton, MA
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: I6 4.0L
Thank you for the explanation on socket/ bolt trick.
I was curious on replacement seals. On my Sterling full float rear end in my truck it seems if I don't use Scotseal plus xl seal I end up with a leak.
in that case it's much better than a factory Ford seal. In the case of the D30, spicer is probably as good as any. And made in the USA is a nice bonus.
good luck on your spring and shock change. And on your front axle if you get that far.
I'm not sure when I'm doing my sons xj. To many jobs at the moment.
but will work it in soon.
thanks,
Joe
I'm about halfway done with the leaf springs. Being in the Northeast, the rust is the real difficulty. I also didn't realize how much effort it was going to be to put the take-off JK shocks in. The fronts didn't have the bar pin so I had to take the old sleeve bushing out and put the bar pin in. I had to do the lower bushing on one of the rears (and maybe will have to do the other) since the old bushing is frozen on the mounting bolt and possibly welded in (the joys of previous owners... lol). The removing the sleeve bushings proved to be the challenge. However folks gush over these JK take-offs, so hopefully it's worth the effort. I probably shouldn't complain that the bushings are practically brand new and tough.
As far as extra "stuff" when installing the axle seals - I'll probably just put the new seals in when I get to it. I haven't checked up on the replacement procedure, so we'll see. There may be recommendation, but as I've never done the seals before I don't know.
Make sure your son is completely involved in doing the job with you. The experience will be very good for him - the design is pretty much the same for all the XJ's and most if not all Wranglers, so even when the XJ is gone if he ever gets another Jeep....
06-13-2018, 10:57 PM
#17
CF Veteran
06-14-2018, 01:09 PM
#18
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Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Groton, MA
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: I6 4.0L
After work tonight I'm going to see if I can get a socket to fit correctly on the seal rim and then maybe bring one of the new seals to Home Depot to see about PVC pipe.
06-14-2018, 04:19 PM
#19
Member
Thread Starter
Hahaha, anytime. I'm no professional, yet I've pulled those hubs at least 7 times between my current and previous Jeep. (Hub bearings, ball joints, u-joints, etc). It's really a pretty easy job.
I'm about halfway done with the leaf springs. Being in the Northeast, the rust is the real difficulty. I also didn't realize how much effort it was going to be to put the take-off JK shocks in. The fronts didn't have the bar pin so I had to take the old sleeve bushing out and put the bar pin in. I had to do the lower bushing on one of the rears (and maybe will have to do the other) since the old bushing is frozen on the mounting bolt and possibly welded in (the joys of previous owners... lol). The removing the sleeve bushings proved to be the challenge. However folks gush over these JK take-offs, so hopefully it's worth the effort. I probably shouldn't complain that the bushings are practically brand new and tough.
As far as extra "stuff" when installing the axle seals - I'll probably just put the new seals in when I get to it. I haven't checked up on the replacement procedure, so we'll see. There may be recommendation, but as I've never done the seals before I don't know.
Make sure your son is completely involved in doing the job with you. The experience will be very good for him - the design is pretty much the same for all the XJ's and most if not all Wranglers, so even when the XJ is gone if he ever gets another Jeep....
I'm about halfway done with the leaf springs. Being in the Northeast, the rust is the real difficulty. I also didn't realize how much effort it was going to be to put the take-off JK shocks in. The fronts didn't have the bar pin so I had to take the old sleeve bushing out and put the bar pin in. I had to do the lower bushing on one of the rears (and maybe will have to do the other) since the old bushing is frozen on the mounting bolt and possibly welded in (the joys of previous owners... lol). The removing the sleeve bushings proved to be the challenge. However folks gush over these JK take-offs, so hopefully it's worth the effort. I probably shouldn't complain that the bushings are practically brand new and tough.
As far as extra "stuff" when installing the axle seals - I'll probably just put the new seals in when I get to it. I haven't checked up on the replacement procedure, so we'll see. There may be recommendation, but as I've never done the seals before I don't know.
Make sure your son is completely involved in doing the job with you. The experience will be very good for him - the design is pretty much the same for all the XJ's and most if not all Wranglers, so even when the XJ is gone if he ever gets another Jeep....
working on on rusty trucks is fun. Haha.
Torches and a plasma cutter are two of my favorite tools. I don't know how things got done without them.
I have been doing this stuff for many years and am so sick of rust. My last few vehicles I went down south or out west to buy them.
My sons 89 xj came from down south and it's pretty clean since it only spent 1 winter up here.
let us know if all that effort is worth it for the jk shocks. Shock technology has sure improved in the last 10 years or so.
You suggest my son help with the job. He will lend a hand when I need one in the shop.
But he has zero interest in mechanical work. He is going to school to be a forensic scientist. He would rather work with his brain and stay clean.
He has seen me dirty and greasy too many times.
It's ok, if his schooling works out he will have plenty of money to pay grunts like me to get dirty for him later.
06-14-2018, 04:24 PM
#20
Member
Thread Starter
A lot of folks have trouble with the homemade tool. A recent post described using a socket and extensions (since threaded rod can hang up on the seal lip and tear it) and going through the first installed seal to hammer the second or using 3/4" PVC pipe (again to avoid sharp things contacting the seal).
After work tonight I'm going to see if I can get a socket to fit correctly on the seal rim and then maybe bring one of the new seals to Home Depot to see about PVC pipe.
After work tonight I'm going to see if I can get a socket to fit correctly on the seal rim and then maybe bring one of the new seals to Home Depot to see about PVC pipe.
I haven't looked close yet, but it looks like my regular seal driving tool should work to install the new seals
harbor freight sells a decent set cheap. Might want to look into one of those before you make something.
But I can see a piece of plastic pipe working good.
06-14-2018, 08:07 PM
#21
CF Veteran
A lot of folks have trouble with the homemade tool. A recent post described using a socket and extensions (since threaded rod can hang up on the seal lip and tear it) and going through the first installed seal to hammer the second or using 3/4" PVC pipe (again to avoid sharp things contacting the seal).
After work tonight I'm going to see if I can get a socket to fit correctly on the seal rim and then maybe bring one of the new seals to Home Depot to see about PVC pipe.
After work tonight I'm going to see if I can get a socket to fit correctly on the seal rim and then maybe bring one of the new seals to Home Depot to see about PVC pipe.
06-15-2018, 02:13 PM
#22
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: I6 4.0L
It seems to me (not having done the axle seals, but reading a lot about it) is that the "proper" tool (like the Jeep dealers would have) is expensive and hard to get and the typical seal installers don't work since you've got two opposing areas and limited room in the middle - hence folks use everything from threaded rod to pvc pipe to broom handles to get even force on the new seal when pressing it into place.
If there's a reasonably priced and available tool that works, please point me to it since I'm probably going to do mine this weekend if things go well with time/scheduling.
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