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Cupping Tread on Front Driver's Tire

Old 06-29-2011, 03:03 PM
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Default Cupping Tread on Front Driver's Tire

I need a little help with my XJ. I noticed about a month ago the outside tread on my front driver's side tire is starting to cup. I was planning on replacing the worn looking tie-rod ends. Nut I noticed this weekend that the tire is at a slight angle tilting in at the top. Since then, I've found that the thunk I hear when I hit a bump is coming from the same wheel. Any thoughts? I'd like to do as much of the work myself, because I bought the Jeep to give me an opportunity to learn about it, but I'm stuck... Help?
Old 06-29-2011, 03:15 PM
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Check your ball joints and shocks along with the tie rod ends.
Old 06-29-2011, 03:19 PM
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When you replace those worn out ball joints do both at the same time. I also did the axle ujoint while I was in there mine was factory.
Old 07-05-2011, 10:30 AM
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Finally finishing up my headliner/overhead console project, and time to tackle this. Since it thunks when I hit a bump, am I right in thinking it more likely a problem with my ball joints rather than my tie rod ends?

Also, does anyone have any experience with these ebay tie rod & ball joint kits?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/UPPER...Q5fAccessories

Thanks!
Old 07-05-2011, 11:48 AM
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I would have to say ball joints, as they locate the (ultimately) the wheel in relation to the ground(bad ball joints can cause increased camber, and camber shift as the wheel cycles through it suspension cycle of being loaded and unlaoded).. I agree with doing a u joint while your in there.
Old 07-05-2011, 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by MooreALX
Finally finishing up my headliner/overhead console project, and time to tackle this. Since it thunks when I hit a bump, am I right in thinking it more likely a problem with my ball joints rather than my tie rod ends?

Also, does anyone have any experience with these ebay tie rod & ball joint kits?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/UPPER...Q5fAccessories

Thanks!
More than likely those parts are nothing more than cheap imported junk stick with a name brand from Rock or Napa. This is especially important when dealing with suspension parts. Think of it this way, if you needed open heart surgery would you shop for the lowest price?
Old 07-05-2011, 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by MooreALX
Finally finishing up my headliner/overhead console project, and time to tackle this. Since it thunks when I hit a bump, am I right in thinking it more likely a problem with my ball joints rather than my tie rod ends?

Also, does anyone have any experience with these ebay tie rod & ball joint kits?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/UPPER...Q5fAccessories

Thanks!
You would be money ahead to use parts from your local Napa store. Those ebay kits are made of cheap crap from China in most cases. You can't go wrong with Moog or TRW suspension parts.
Old 07-05-2011, 01:09 PM
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Could also be worn bushings in trackbar and control arms or swaybar. Could be bad bearings. Nothing is ruled OUT till inspection and diagnosis is completed.
Old 07-06-2011, 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Bustedback
You would be money ahead to use parts from your local Napa store. Those ebay kits are made of cheap crap from China in most cases. You can't go wrong with Moog or TRW suspension parts.
I did a bunch of reading on the forums today, and I found a few people recommending Spicer over Moog. How's this look, Complete Offroad was recommended on another forum.
http://completeoffroad.com/i-123665-...ds-706944.html


Originally Posted by 93gc40
Could also be worn bushings in trackbar and control arms or swaybar. Could be bad bearings. Nothing is ruled OUT till inspection and diagnosis is completed.
I'm going to take it in for an alignment once I replace the ball joints and tie rod ends. Its a good shop that will look everything over when it's there.
Old 07-13-2011, 09:02 AM
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I've been working on this since Sunday. So far nothing's been easy, but I have the new joints in. I just have to do the U-Joints now, and then reassemble. Here's the drivers side, where I was suspecting the issues were coming from:



As a very typical example of my experience, the nut was on so tight on the bottom passenger ball joint that even after heating it up with a torch, I still managed to break a 1/2" breakerbar off on it. At least it was Craftsman... Ended up having to borrow a 3/4" drive breakerbar from my Dad's work...

Old 07-13-2011, 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by MooreALX
I've been working on this since Sunday. So far nothing's been easy, but I have the new joints in. I just have to do the U-Joints now, and then reassemble. Here's the drivers side, where I was suspecting the issues were coming from:

As a very typical example of my experience, the nut was on so tight on the bottom passenger ball joint that even after heating it up with a torch, I still managed to break a 1/2" breakerbar off on it. At least it was Craftsman... Ended up having to borrow a 3/4" drive breakerbar from my Dad's work...
Damn, that breaker bar was beefy too, good thing for the craftsmen lifetime warranty!
Old 07-13-2011, 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by 1plunk
Damn, that breaker bar was beefy too, good thing for the craftsmen lifetime warranty!
The warranty is the only reason we buy Craftsman. Sears isn't going to be happy. So far this ball-joint project has claimed the life of that breakerbar, a screw driver, a pair of needle nose plyers, and the 13mm wrench that we used to remove the hub assembly.
Old 07-13-2011, 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by MooreALX

The warranty is the only reason we buy Craftsman. Sears isn't going to be happy. So far this ball-joint project has claimed the life of that breakerbar, a screw driver, a pair of needle nose plyers, and the 13mm wrench that we used to remove the hub assembly.
Yep, but paying the extra couple bucks for the tools is definitely worth it
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