crank, no start, p1694, good cps
 

i am working on a friend's 98 xj 4x4 right hand drive. It was parked in June due to a bearing went out and we just got it fixed last week. everything went back together great, went to start, and the battery was dead, like permanently dead. put a 6 month old battery in it, turned over strong, but no spark. We checked the ignition coil and distributor and replaced the coil, cap, button and pickup coil. put a cps on it off of another truck that had just run the day before, still nothing. I ran the obd scanner on it and it came up p1694. i have tried several times to clear it, but it says that the clear failed. Already long story short, we have taken the wiring harness (that goes across the top of the engine) off twice and nearly completely reinsulated it. we ended up buying a new cps and put it on. Tested until we are about to go crazy. and still have no spark. We think we have discovered that there is a short somewhere along the line, but can't figure out where. we can take a test light, clip it to the positive cable and put it on the green wire on the injectors. it will light up. we disconnect the harness from the pcm, it stays on. we disconnect the other end of the harness and it goes off. then last night, at 1:30 am, i clipped the test light to the positive cable and put the test light on the orange wire of the cps connector. every time I touch the prong, the cruise control clicks.

This is about to make me go insane!!! we have been working on it every single day until almost midnight or later for over a week. we are starting to lose work because we have to get this thing going. Does anybody have any ideas?

In the power distribution center (PDC) under the hood, there is an ASD relay (automatic shutdown) The relay must close in order for spark to initiate. On our XJs ASD basically means "primary ignition circuit". You should ensure that this relay is functioning correctly, as well as its corresponding fuse in the PDC, and ensure that it is responding properly when the ignition switch is in the relevant positions. If the ASD relay checks good for function, but is not activated when starting the vehicle the testing usually continues on towards the ignition switch. The ignition switch is a key component here (no pun intended) and if it is not functioning correctly the ASD circuit may be what is causing the no spark condition.

A wiring diagram for your year will help make it more clear the relationship between the ignition switch and the ASD relay circuit.

A visual inspection and cleanup of the ignition switch connector may be in order as well. (easy and free to do).

how do you test it? we have checked every fuse in both boxes and all are good. we have swapped it with a good relay and no change.

I forgot to add the we have no gauges and the fuel pump is not priming.

Ok, well that opens up a lot of things. When multiple problems are presenting, and in this case all seem to have a relationship to the electrical system, one approach is to pick one item and focus on it. In hopes that figuring out what is going on with that first choice might actually be cause for all of the problem. Usually the easiest item to troubleshoot is chosen.

If I were faced with this problem, I would start with the fuel pump, and begin working that issue specifically. For example jumping the relay and determining whether it a control problem or a wiring problem (e.g. does the pump ever receive voltage when the relay is jumped?).

Given the general weirdness, I would also want to see the underside of the PDC, to make sure there hasn't been an outbreak of corrosion there due to water intrusion or something while the vehicle sat so long. If the underside of the PDC experiences corrosion it can generate all sorts of random behavior and failures.

I would also execute a general clean-up and reconnect of the important battery post and ground connections. Especially on an XJ that sat for 6 months or more.

x2 - You want to make sure you're at least starting the electrical diagnostics with a solid base and verifying this stuff is key to doing that.

Jordan, would a fubar ignition switch cause the lack of gauges and fuel pump priming? Logically I think it's possible, but I'm completely speculating.

Yes, I had thought about pointing in that direction, but according to their first post they mentioned that it cranked. Which tells me at least the "start" position of the ignition switch is working. But you are correct that it does not rule out that the "start/run" position of the switch (the position it automatically goes to when you let go of it during starting) is having a problem if that position is failing in the switch or the connector it will take out the ASD (ignition) circuit and likely the fuel pump, but probably not the dash lights (not sure off top of my head, but perhaps).

I was also thinking about the ground from chassis back to the battery via the wire from the fender to the negative battery terminal. Because the starter would get its ground directly from the block studs. But almost everything else mentioned would get its ground from the chassis some where. But the question about how to test an ASD relay/circuit made me think I should just stick to basic ideas at first (more what to do next, instead of possibilities).

I cleaned all the grounds and checked the PDC. We also replaced the battery terminals last night. I forgot to jump the relay, but try it in a few.

In doing some more research and testing, on the diagrams i can find the only thing that is connected to both the cruise control and top of the engine sensors is the VSS. Could that have possibly shorted? I'm sorry if my responses seem kind of redundante. I can do anything mechanical all day long, but I am not good at electrical!

You need to pick something and troubleshoot it. Even if many things are happening. At the risk of repeating myself, you should consider the fuel pump or the ASD relay and stick to the choice until you find out what it causing the problem on that one component.

Without a multimeter or testlamp you probably won't be able to troubleshoot these problems very well. Do you have either of those? Think of these tools as being like truth-serum for electricity, once it is exposed to them it has no choice but to start spilling its guts and telling the truth.

Daddysgirl97 - You're in good hands with Jordan96xj, you should definitely consider his excellent advice.
If something is not clear or you're unsure of what he's saying, don't be afraid to ask.

Also, if you've been spending night and day working on the Jeep, you should consider taking a break. If nothing else, get a good night sleep. Exhaustion can lead to a lot of unnecessary wasted effort.

Thank you for your help! I am so sorry I responded the way I did yesterday. I was having a bad day and my brain was on overload. I ended up taking most of the rest day off.

I jumped the fuel pump relay and the pump came on. I also moved all the relays around, so each of the 4 were on the starter at some point, and the starter still came on. Where would you suggest looking next?

I do have both a multimeter and testlamp.

Thank you for your help! I am so sorry I responded the way I did yesterday. I was having a bad day and my brain was on overload. I ended up taking most of the rest day off.

I jumped the fuel pump relay and the pump came on. I also moved all the relays around, so each of the 4 were on the starter at some point, and the starter still came on. Where would you suggest looking next?

I do have both a multimeter and testlamp.

Since the starter and fuel pump can be commanded from the PDC, then the problem is likely between the ignition switch and the PDC. Your next step is to open the steering wheel trim and do a visual inspection of the ignition switch and its connector to ensure no melted or damaged wires.

Then you will want to use your test lamp and/or multimeter to test that the appropriate pins have continuity during the various positions of the key. This testing isn't really optional, if it is requires some research. I would recommend getting the FSM manual for your year from pacificcoastmanuals.com they can usually be had for less than $10. It will help you to know how to test the ignition switch connector properly. This test is so important, because you will need to be able to rule out the ignition switch before assuming there is some type of wiring problem between the ignition switch and the PDC.

To put it in perspective, it is much more likely that an ignition switch is worn out than that some random wire broke or short circuited deep in a harness somewhere. It can happen, especially if the harness is damaged in some way, but an ignition switch is a wear item and will degrade over time due to constant use (the contacts inside will get worn down, corroded, carbonized, etc.) Also electrical switches tend to have a hard time sitting for 6 months gives lots of opportunity for oxidation to build up between the switch contacts.

No worries - no need to apologize. You seemed frazzled so it seemed important to remind you that when you're deep into something and getting frustrated that you often need to take a step back and a deep breath.

I would take a look at this thread: https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/cra...essure-154471/ there's a lot of good information there and is similar to the issue you're having.
Another good info link is: http://www.realworldautomotive.com/f...-function.html

I would consider testing the ignition switch - however I completely defer to Jordan as my knowledge of auto electronics is limited and Jordan is quite knowledgeable in this area.
This video is regarding a Dodge Neon, which is actually not too far removed from your switch - they both used the same one for several years.

:)

When it comes down to it - it would not be absurd to just buy a new ignition switch. Autozone stocks the correct part for only about $40 and as Jordan indicated, it IS a wear item and worst case scenario you'd have a new lifetime warrantied ignition switch.

Make sure you have a set of "Tamper resistant" torx bits if you do go ahead and remove the ignition switch. They're the ones with a little hole in the center and can be bought at most hardware/tool stores (Harbor Freight, Sears, Ace Hardware) for a reasonable price.

And of course, don't forget to let us know how it goes (especially if you get it fixed!) :)