couple cherokee parts questions..
 

Ok, I am moving across country and my wife will have to drive my cherokee. I have a couple things I want to get corrected before she takes it and need some advice.

Its a 1999 2DR 4.0 sport with a 4.5" rubicon express lift. brand new 32" BFG's, brakes, and complete new exhaust system. 100K miles.

what I am trying to fix is the front end wobble and loose steering, the starter takes a long time to crank, and the tie rods pop on turns.

I want to put better components in to replace the OEM's and have questions.

for the loose steering I was thinking about a rough country adjustable track bar, mine is stock and Im guessing my wobbly steering is due to the lift and the track bar not being long enough. any thoughts on issue or proposed solution would be great.

I also wanted to replace the tie rods with rugged ridge heavy dutry tie rods, does anyone have any experience with them?

as for the starter, the main question I had was if getting a mean green starter had any benefit in a higher mileage vehicle like mine, or if it would make more sense to just get a regular starter?


thanks in advance!

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m...4/DSCF0010.jpg

probably just want upgrade the whole steering system if your gonna spend the money do it right the first time look at re their stuff is pretty good quality

with 4.5in lift it would have came with a bracket to make your track bar lign up right... shouldnt be causing any problems with steering unless a bushing is shot out... tie rods iver heard of people replacing with ZJ's... cheap from autozone or whatever... im pretty sure anyway... do a search on using the ZJ's just to double check... there like twice as large... and you just need a stock starter man... aftermarket is for like a fully buit $10,000 I6 motor... and ever then a stock one should still start it... as for the wobble and loose steering jack it up and take the pressure off the front suspension and check all your joints and bushings with a pry bar... and see if they pull apart with alittle pressure...

Long crank times may be fuel pressure related. There is a check valve mod that will fix the problem. Try cycling the key to ACC a few times before trying to start it up. If it starts up right away then thats the problem.

good to know. I tried this and it started right up. is there anywhere I can find how to do this valve check mod?

also, forgive my NOOB'ness...but these replacement tie rod sets like rusty's and rugged ridge look completely straight, how does the steering stabilizer attach to the center link?

rugged ridge
http://www.jcwhitney.com/jcwhitney/s...98803_CL_1.jpg

rusty's
http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/media/s...C250-UV_02.jpg


mine
http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m...4/DSCF1033.jpg

any thoughts on what that thing is would be greatly appreciated.

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m...4/DSCF1034.jpg

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m...4/DSCF1032.jpg

I am interested to know when you bought your lift kit, I bought mine (4.5 rubicon express) in June and it came with the adjustable track bar. When did the 4.5 lift kit ever come without a track bar?

you already have a adjustable track bar...its in the pics...

ok, that definitely helps :thumbup1:....I bought the jeep used and am going off of a mechanic who told me that was why my steering was so ****ty....

I do want to replace the tie rods with heavier ones, I just dont see how I could mount the steering stabilizer to them?

im just an army tank gunner....I can turn wrenches and hammer things out, but I'm pretty new to this...:confused1: your help is invaluable to me!

I cant find the the thread for the check valve mod but the "real" check valve is in your fuel pump. So replacing that would fix it but at a cost of $140 for the pump. The mod is basicly a one way valve that allows the fuel to pass through but not back into the tank and in turn holds pressure. I was hoping someone would chime in with the link.

a check valve... you could splice in a check valve anywhere in the fuel lines and this would work... only thing is i dunno if there is one at lowes or something that will hold up to fuel eating at it... the fuel pump has a built in check valve... actually you can pull the fuel pump out and take it apart... chances are it just trash stuck in the check valve.... stick it back together... good to go...

call rugged ridge... chance are the pics arnt what your getting... thats all... they should still look like the rustys... as for the steerin stabilizers... stock goes in the stock locations and aftermarkets mostly do the same but come wth directions...

yeah bro bmw sells one for a early 90s 7 series. i think its less than 7 bucks.

DITCHEK.com is a web site posted a while back by another member (sorry I don't remember who it was) for check valves. Search for sur & R ckv5 5/16" universal fuel check valve. I think that's what I need too, but I'm not sure because cycling the key two or three times (to run the pump and pressurize the line) doesn't seem to make much difference.

doesnt on mine either... i just deal with a few more turnovers before starting :dunno:... dont feel like messing with it... other stuff i want to mess with first :thumbup: