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coolant flush
New radiator is on the way. My question is, how do i flush the old nasty orangeish coolant out without a radiator in it? should i leave my old radiator in and do the flush then install my new radiator or is there a way to do a flush without it?
Any ideas/suggestions? |
Originally Posted by 00Pajeepcherokee
(Post 834433)
New radiator is on the way. My question is, how do i flush the old nasty orangeish coolant out without a radiator in it? should i leave my old radiator in and do the flush then install my new radiator or is there a way to do a flush without it?
Any ideas/suggestions? |
Originally Posted by thundaluvin
The way I did was take the t-stat housing off and flush it with a garden hose, i took the water pump off too to get every last piece of crud out. then I dumped in some CLR and let it sit for an hour. then flushed it again. The water pump appears to be brand new so if I take it off should I have to replace the gasket? |
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This line also has me stumped at the moment. Special tool needed perhaps? See the ugly color of my coolant? Nasty crap
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Originally Posted by 00Pajeepcherokee
(Post 834456)
This line also has me stumped at the moment. Special tool needed perhaps? See the ugly color of my coolant? Nasty crap
Go to autozone and get a trans quick disconnect tool for jeep trans line. they carry them. |
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Does this look normal and in working order?
I hasn't leaked since I put the motor in about 6k ago but it looks like someone put a t stat in it at some point. Runs extremely cool. Like between 150-175 normally since it got cold out. |
Originally Posted by 00Pajeepcherokee
(Post 835057)
Does this look normal and in working order?
I hasn't leaked since I put the motor in about 6k ago but it looks like someone put a t stat in it at some point. Runs extremely cool. Like between 150-175 normally since it got cold out. |
Originally Posted by thundaluvin
No thats not normal. It looks like you have a gasket leaking or cracked housing. 190-210 is where the 4.0 likes to be at temp wise. My guess is the previous owner took the t-stat out or put in a 150 to keep it from over heating. tear it apart and put new in. At least then you know it's done right. Use a failsafe thermostat, just my recommendation. So I'm gonna run the CLR in the motor an let it set awhile then flush the whole system before I put my new radiator in along with a 190 failsafe t stat. Sound like a good game plan? Oh an does the t stat come with a gasket or do I have to get some kinda sealer? Ie red rtv etc... |
Originally Posted by 00Pajeepcherokee
(Post 835093)
I'm glad ur giving me advice or I'd be lost in the dark.
So I'm gonna run the CLR in the motor an let it set awhile then flush the whole system before I put my new radiator in along with a 190 failsafe t stat. Sound like a good game plan? Oh an does the t stat come with a gasket or do I have to get some kinda sealer? Ie red rtv etc... |
Wish I had the radiator now, I'd go down stairs an start now!
I originally wasn't gonna bother with taking the water pump off but it seems like a good idea now. I remember how big a pain it was getting the belt on last time but I guess that was with the radiator an elec fan all in there not removed like it is now. |
sorry for the newbie question, but what is CLR?
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CLR is used to clean Calsium,Lime, and Rust deposits, usually in bathrooms.
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When you put the new antifreeze in if you can use the green antifreeze and not the orange stuff. The orange antifreeze turns to a mud color after a while.
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thanks! i'm thinking i need to do the cooling system come spring so might as well get prepared :)
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Just got everything back together.
Isn't the non existant t stat sexy? Looks like someone thought running the motor wit out a t stat would be cool. (No pun intended) Heat works great now. If I could just get all the orangish gunk outta the motor! |
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