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Constant power draw from ABS relay

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Old 11-07-2013, 08:05 PM
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Default Constant power draw from ABS relay

I have a 99 cherokee 2 dr 5 sp with 4.0 and it constantly is drainin the battery. I used my other cherokee to check whats getting power while the engine is off. I found out that the abs relay in the engine bay is constantly getting power and the relay is getting real hot. Any way i can fix this and hopefully stop my battery from draining
Old 11-08-2013, 07:51 AM
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Originally Posted by lil01cherokee
I have a 99 cherokee 2 dr 5 sp with 4.0 and it constantly is drainin the battery. I used my other cherokee to check whats getting power while the engine is off. I found out that the abs relay in the engine bay is constantly getting power and the relay is getting real hot. Any way i can fix this and hopefully stop my battery from draining
Is the ABS light on the instrument cluster on all the time?

Have you tried installing a new ABS relay?
Old 11-08-2013, 08:44 AM
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No the light is never on and even when the relay is out it still draws power. I pull it out and test it with a multimeter and it getting a constant 12v
Old 11-08-2013, 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by lil01cherokee
No the light is never on and even when the relay is out it still draws power. I pull it out and test it with a multimeter and it getting a constant 12v
That's odd because the anti-lock brake relay system is only powered when the ignition switch is to RUN.

Your brake lamps aren't on all the time are they?

The brake lamp switch also provides battery power to the anti-lock brake controller. The anti-lock brake controller activates the anti-lock brake relay; but again, the relay control coil and its power contacts in the relay are powered from the ignition switch when it is in the RUN position.

You are checking for power at the anti-lock brake relay in the PDC aren't you. And you are checking for power at the relay with the ignition switch OFF/LOCK aren't you.

I'll post up some diagrams when I get my Photobucket up and running.
Old 11-08-2013, 03:59 PM
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Thats probably the issue my cherokee starts off of a toggle switch and push button the tumbler went out and so i installed that jerry rigged system. And so i turned that little black ignition block behind the tumbler to run then put a toggle switch behind that so the accessory would turn on and off. Im guessing thats causing constant juice to the abs relay then. And with that note im assuming that even though my toggle switch is "off" its still supplyin power. Because my heat/ac and blower also work when my switch is off
Old 11-08-2013, 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by lil01cherokee
Thats probably the issue my cherokee starts off of a toggle switch and push button the tumbler went out and so i installed that jerry rigged system. And so i turned that little black ignition block behind the tumbler to run then put a toggle switch behind that so the accessory would turn on and off. Im guessing thats causing constant juice to the abs relay then. And with that note im assuming that even though my toggle switch is "off" its still supplyin power. Because my heat/ac and blower also work when my switch is off
I guess you'll have to figure out how to fix that.

Could you remove that system you put in and install a new ignition switch?
Old 11-08-2013, 08:10 PM
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My issue ive come across is that in order to remove the tumbler the key must be turned to accessory and there is a button that will go in on the bottom i cannot get the button to go in
Old 11-08-2013, 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by lil01cherokee
My issue ive come across is that in order to remove the tumbler the key must be turned to accessory and there is a button that will go in on the bottom i cannot get the button to go in
That happen to mine,had to drill it.It took a while but I got it out.
Old 11-08-2013, 08:25 PM
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Originally Posted by lil01cherokee
My issue ive come across is that in order to remove the tumbler the key must be turned to accessory and there is a button that will go in on the bottom i cannot get the button to go in
Here's procedures from the FSM. Unfortunately no illustrations to go with the text. Note that the key is to be in the ON (RUN) position.

IGNITION SWITCH AND KEY CYLINDER
The ignition key must be in the key cylinder for
cylinder removal. The key cylinder must be removed
first before removing ignition switch.

KEY CYLINDER REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative battery cable at battery.
(2) If equipped with an automatic transmission,
place shifter in PARK position.
(3) Rotate key to ON position.
(4) A release tang is located on bottom of key cylinder
(Fig. 34).
(5) Position a small screwdriver or pin punch into
tang access hole on bottom of steering column lower
cover (Fig. 35).
(6) Push the pin punch up while pulling key cylinder
from steering column.

IGNITION SWITCH REMOVAL
(1) Remove key cylinder. Refer to previous steps.
(2) Remove lower steering column cover screws
and remove cover (Fig. 35).
(3) Remove ignition switch mounting screw (Fig.
38). Use tamper proof torx bit (Snap-Ont SDMTR10
or equivalent) to remove the screw.
(4) Using a small screwdriver, push on locking tab
(Fig. 36) and remove switch from steering column.
(5) Disconnect two electrical connectors at rear of
ignition switch (Fig. 38).

IGNITION SWITCH INSTALLATION
(1) Before installing ignition switch, rotate the slot
in the switch to the ON position (Fig. 37).
(2) Connect two electrical connectors to rear of
ignition switch. Make sure that locking tabs are fully
seated into wiring connectors.
(3) Position switch to column and install tamper
proof screw. Tighten screw to 3 N·m (26 in. lbs.).
(4) Install steering column lower cover.

KEY CYLINDER INSTALLATION
(1) If equipped with an automatic transmission,
place shifter in PARK position.
(2) Position key cylinder into steering column as it
would normally be in the ON position.
(3) Press key cylinder into column until it snaps
into position.
(4) Check mechanical operation of switch. Automatic
Transmission: Be sure transmission lever is locked in PARK position after key removal. If key is
difficult to rotate or is difficult to remove, the shift
lever-to-steering column cable may be out of adjustment
or defective. Refer to Group 21, Transmission
for procedures. Manual Transmission: Be sure key
cannot be removed until release lever is operated. If
key can be removed, release lever mechanism may be
defective. Release lever mechanism is not serviced
separately. If repair is necessary, the steering column
must be replaced. Refer to Group 19, Steering for
procedures.
(5) Connect negative cable to battery.
(6) Check electrical operation of switch.
Old 11-08-2013, 09:08 PM
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Awesome thanks for the help!
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