s14unimog

I've been slowly working to get my 3" lifted XJ to a reliable improved level. When I first got the Jeep, it had a simple R/C 3" add-a-leaf, some 31" LTB's and the front sway bar links missing. Bottom line is that it was down right scary to drive.

I've since ditched the over sized LTB's, added some JKS quick disconnects, replaced the rear with a full 3" pack, and added some extended bump stops to the front and rear. At this point I thought I was pretty good. It wasn't rubbing anymore, it didn't sway all over the road, and aside from a missing door trim It was a presentable rig. Then the steering sorta just fell apart; not literately. I noticed the alignment was a bit out, so I tried adjusting the tie rod; wouldn't move, and not to mention one of the ball joints was toast. Then I start looking around. The track bar ball joint was so trashed I could actually shake the link; and the pitman arm to drag link was the same story... I guess that's where the shakes were coming from.

Now I've looked around and I think you can make a case to pick any mfg out there. The Cherokee is not a new vehicle and I can't imagine how many steering discussion there have been over the last 26 years. I got Rusty's, whatever....

What I bought:
-"Steering Conversion" - It's a drag link and tie rod uprage for the Dana 30
-Steering Stabilizer
- 1.25" Drop Pitman
-Steering box brace
-Trac bar
-Brake line brackets




After looking everything over, it looks pretty solid to me. They used 0.250" wall DOM on the links, the welds were obviously done on a rotisserie, the ball joint connection looks substantial, and aside from there being some zinc plated hardware I'm good with it.









I'll have to tell you. My dad used to tell me that Japanese vehicles were just made better, they took more consideration when thinking about things like fasteners, corrosion protection, and generally in the way they construct a vehicle. I'm not saying I don't love my Jeep but after working on a variety of vehicles, and we're talking about a lot, I have to agree. Now throw in the fact that my Jeep is supposedly from Hawaii and I have a lose lose scenario. This Jeep fault me tooth and nail through the entire steering project I had in front of me. Either the case, here is a comparison of some of the parts...



As you can see its more than just replacing what's there. Effectively the same process happens here but at least I have an easier way to replace ball joints. I guess this is the "conversion" part. One thing I would suggest is if they could add a hexagonal section so that I might have a better leverage point when tightening the jam nuts.




Same thing here, effectively the same part but with a new poly bushing and an adjustable tie rod end. After installing it seems I may not be a true 3" lifted b/c the tie rod is threaded all the way in. Oh well, more interference is less leverage on that threading. Yeah that's the fu*kin bolt I had to cut out of there.



Here is a shot of the OEM setup



Here is a shot of the steering brace installed. The install was simple and went easily.




Here is a shot with the Conversion on.




And finally the Trac-Bar. I didn't get the Pitman arm on b/c again... It will NOT come off. I torched it, beat on it, broke a puller, and put more penetrating oil on it than I imagine could be effective. I'm going to spray it for the next couple of weeks while I calm down from the frustration.





Here is a shot of the extension brackets. They accomplish what I need for the moment and we're only 8 bucks. I want to make another suggestion, if they would just add a small slot to the rear bracket it would save the customer from doing it. There is just no way I'm going to attempt breaking apart my lines, unless I'm prepared to replace all that is connected to it, after dealing with the other hardware on the vehicle. It didn't make the bracket any weaker and after a shot of black paint it looked like it came that way.


I plan to do a couple trails with some updates later on but for the moment just road use. I've had the parts on there for the last two weeks. I finally got the alignment straightened out and the shakes are gone. So far the only complaint is that the tie rod link contacts the trac-bar bolt when I have the steering hard over to the right. I'm currently talking to Rusty's about it but I haven't had time to really look at it now that I got the trac-bar on. I'll let you know how that goes.

BigC9164

good review man! yeah i have to agree with you on the jap cars! BUT.....i would rather have a dodge, ford, or chevey truck than a yota or nissan... for MANY reasons!(i have an 07 Dodge 1500) and as far as off road SUVs...you cant beat a jeep for reliability and cheap parts and it being super easy to work on.
American made cars are just like all other american made things...they may not have all the nice gadgets and everything but they are built to last a while! trust me...replacing the steering on you jeep is a lot cheeper than replacing the stearing on a jap car! but if the steering on a jap car does not need to be replaced...who knows. haha

s14unimog

^ I agree, everything has been cheaper for the Jeep. Like I said, that is really just a gripe about the corrosion

fantic238

You don't really need the drop pitman arm with 3 in of lift. What is important is that the two imaginary lines passing through the track bar ends and the drag link are parallel.

Dan91

Regarding the pitman arm. Don't you need a special tool to pull them?

fantic238

In theory an extracting tool is required, similiar to the ball joint extractor, in the practice the conical fitting can be clashed by hammering on the external surface of the pitman end.

CAEMI

This is soooo correct.

I've heard about Japanese reliability over and over...but when I drop into the local Buick/Honda dealer, there are just as many Honda mechanics as Buick mechanics and their bays are always full. Wait a minute while I strap on my flame-proof suit...

OK. I do not see a difference in overall reliability in vehicles IN THE SAME PRICE RANGE with rare exceptions like Hyundai's when they first hit the shores. And the first two generations of Honda Civic's were god-awful junk compared to even a Pinto. I never saw a first gen Civic make 80k miles without an overhaul. I never saw a Nissan Sentra with paint on it's hood after six years.

I do see reliability differences between Infinity and Ford, for example. A $60k Infinity had dang well be a lot more car than a $25k Ford Taurus...200% more better...and I see an ASTOUNDING difference in the cost of parts when something does break or wear out.

What I do see is a cost differential of about 12% between an American built JPN car and an American built domestic. That 12% is not spent on engineering and super-fine parts, it is profit and is returned to Japan. This is reflected in the stock market prices of these companies. Google them and do a 20 year track on their share values.

And I see a difference in the way Jap car owners maintain their vehicles compared to domestics. They tend to be much more diligent in maintenance and do not tend to abuse their vehicles as readily. I don't see Tundra's or that giant Nissan whale-truck on jobsites getting the snot beat out of them either. What I DO see is Japanse mini-trucks rusting away in Detroit just like Rangers and S10s.

Finally, I've got a number of Japanese clients - Honda, Toyota, and various keiretsu suppliers. I dislike them, as a rule, because they are evasive and dishonest FIRST and relent only when there are no further options. I do business with them because "bidness is bidness" but I can't remember a single PACRIM client I liked in fifteen years. I'm in a tussle with a Toyota supplier right now. I'll bet folding money I'll get a letter from them this week picking apart our contract with them looking for something they can cite to avoid our fees.


OK. That's my rant for the day. I think I'll put on another layer of Nomex...and maybe Kevlar.

CAEMI

BTW, your post didn't indicate where you're located or much about the history of your Jeep regarding the rust thing. But my 1994 XJ came from San Diego and is rust-free. When I say rust-free, I mean absolutely no discernible rust ANYWHERE. There is simply no rust. Maybe more important, there is no corrosion in the electrical connectors, either. No green junk growing, no white powder, no nothing.

As a result, everything comes apart easily. Even shock mount bolts. And the door hinges are like new...which tells me that hinge sags are probably more related to rust than wear as mine has over 200k on the clock.

On the other hand, I've got a 2003 minivan my wife drives that is rusting through the wheel lips already and paint is bubbling in a dozen different places. That's Detroit...winter, salt, regular rain/precipitation all year 'round. The van's rotten, the Jeep is like new. It's all about location. In our area, everything rusts. There is just no way to stop it. I've seen it in cars that are driven on the beach in Florida, too. The sea salt destroys them.

95Cherokee

Exactly what improvements does the steering brace make, is it noticeable?

s14unimog

Yeah, its just a "pitman arm puller", you can rent them at O-Riely's. Mine has fused its self to the spline and refused to come off. I broke the puller and gave up for now.

It supposed to prevent tearing out the steering box when you run over sized tires. I only have 30's on there at the moment so its not really a concern. You won't notice it on there.


you guys are missing the point entirely... I'm not debating the reliability of domestic vs. import but the design of how components go together and the practices followed by each mfg. Besides most people don't care for their vehicles and believe they can "die"

I'll give you two example...

- Self tapping screws for securing trim panels to sheet metal... A Japanese vehicle would undoubtedly use a small weld nut.

- Consistent metric hardware... The Jeep has a variety of hardware types.


It did, I mentioned the Jeep was from Hawaii and I recognized that it had influence on the condition.

spittinimage

When i get a pitman arm that wont come off i take a diegrinder and cut a slot in it almost all the way to the splines on the gear then stick my air hammer with a chisel bit in the crack to break it the rest of the way then it pretty much falls off. But you cant use that arm again.

s14unimog

^ great idea... I'll make sure I've got plenty of time and just do that. Thanks!