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Cold start only pressing throttle
So I am having a problem starting my Jeep in the cold. I need to press the throttle to get it started and keep idle above 1k by slightly holding throttle. After about a minute it’s fine and I have no problems whatsoever. I can drive turn it off and start it back up no issues, unless it sits for a long time and it’s cold. I checked the throttle body to clean it and it looks brand new. So clean I’d eat off it. I know there is a sensor to set idle before warm up but I don’t know what it is. Idle is perfect once warm also. Does anyone know what sensor raises idle during warm up?
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What type of vehicle? year?
Most likely candidate is a Idle Air Control that is sluggish or failing when it is cold. It sits on the back of your throttle body (on an XJ) and is responsible for allowing air through the throttle body to maintain idle when the foot is off the pedal. The fact that it starts and idles if you manually work the pedal, hints that the IAC is not opening when it is cold and letting air through the throttle body (bypassing the butterfly plate) as it should. |
Year?
Engine? Ever seen a check engine light? *Both the throttle position sensor and idle air control could be in play here. *As would the coolant temperature sensor that has gone south. If the computer doesn't have the correct input from the coolant sensor, it changes the fuel/air ratio dramatically and that can lead to poor starts when cold. *A long shot would be a marginal battery that has enough power to start the engine, but is marginal on keeping engine management systems happy. But after a minute of running and charging the battery, there is enough juice and the symptoms resolve. Load testing your battery here would tell the story. Good luck and keep us updated! |
Originally Posted by tjwalker
(Post 3446572)
Year?
Engine? Ever seen a check engine light? *Both the throttle position sensor and idle air control could be in play here. *As would the coolant temperature sensor that has gone south. If the computer doesn't have the correct input from the coolant sensor, it changes the fuel/air ratio dramatically and that can lead to poor starts when cold. *A long shot would be a marginal battery that has enough power to start the engine, but is marginal on keeping engine management systems happy. But after a minute of running and charging the battery, there is enough juice and the symptoms resolve. Load testing your battery here would tell the story. Good luck and keep us updated! |
Has the IAC been removed and cleaned? The throttle body can be super clean, but if the IAC is all gummed up, it will still cause this type of trouble.
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Originally Posted by jordan96xj
(Post 3446595)
Has the IAC been removed and cleaned? The throttle body can be super clean, but if the IAC is all gummed up, it will still cause this type of trouble.
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Clean the idle valve first. Hang on to that receipt for the coolant sensor. Free comes first.
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Originally Posted by Cummins93
(Post 3446794)
Clean the idle valve first. Hang on to that receipt for the coolant sensor. Free comes first.
1. Provide vague multi-faceted details about the problem (and side problems) 2. Get specific guidance 3. Buy/Swap everything -except- what relates to the specific guidance 4. Reporting back 2 years later that the original guidance addressed the problem (but only when someone resurrects the thread and asks for an update). Making it seem like the original guidance was arrived at by the OP organically (after swapping everything else possible). Doesn't get me down though, because I know these posts will help someone else who is searching later. |
Originally Posted by jordan96xj
(Post 3446818)
Lol. But that would break the normal pattern of asking for help here.
1. Provide vague multi-faceted details about the problem (and side problems) 2. Get specific guidance 3. Buy/Swap everything -except- what relates to the specific guidance 4. Reporting back 2 years later that the original guidance addressed the problem (but only when someone resurrects the thread and asks for an update). Making it seem like the original guidance was arrived at by the OP organically (after swapping everything else possible). Doesn't get me down though, because I know these posts will help someone else who is searching later. |
Originally Posted by jordan96xj
(Post 3446818)
Lol. But that would break the normal pattern of asking for help here.
1. Provide vague multi-faceted details about the problem (and side problems) 2. Get specific guidance 3. Buy/Swap everything -except- what relates to the specific guidance 4. Reporting back 2 years later that the original guidance addressed the problem (but only when someone resurrects the thread and asks for an update). Making it seem like the original guidance was arrived at by the OP organically (after swapping everything else possible). Doesn't get me down though, because I know these posts will help someone else who is searching later. |
Originally Posted by Trailhead_Kyle
(Post 3446876)
i bought one of the sensors that the 2nd post mentioned. How is that not listening? Anywho it fixed the problem so that’s all the really matters
So specifically the resolution was replacing the IAC valve (which was the 2nd post starting from the top) or the temp sensor which you mentioned you were going to replace? As Jordan mentioned, just so that someone else that has this problem can find the information in the future. |
Originally Posted by PatHenry
(Post 3446897)
I feel like the statement was more of a generalization than specifically accusing you - I wouldn't worry about it or take offense as Jordan96xj and Bugout4x4 are always super helpful guys from every post I've seen. :)
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Originally Posted by Trailhead_Kyle
(Post 3446876)
i bought one of the sensors that the 2nd post mentioned. How is that not listening? Anywho it fixed the problem so that’s all the really matters
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Originally Posted by jordan96xj
(Post 3446967)
No worries. I wasn't aiming it at you specifically. Its just how many of the posts go. Mostly just glad you got it fixed. Can you be specific about what fixed it?
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Did you check the resistance of the old CTS to insure it was faulty? If not, it may not be fixed just yet.
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