clutch confusion?
#1
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
clutch confusion?
I have a 92 laredo. i have read alot in the past few nights here. very helpful. with all the info i have read, it leads me to believe that the slave cylinder is worn out. one thing that has not been mentioned on here is that when it is cold out and i start driving my jeep in the morning. the clutch peddle travel is bettter and gear shifting has improved, until mormal operating temp. when that happens tranny is hard to shift again. and i have to put clutch all the way to the floor in order to shift. will new tranny fluid (gear oil)make a difference???or is the slave that finicky.or so i have been told that it might be the clutch pack gone.... i think thats what its called.
#2
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
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I would lean toward your clutch it self but the good thing is when and ig you replace your clutch, you should replace the slace cylinder and throw out bearing with it as well.
#4
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Year: 1992
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yah for sure i will change everything. when i got the jeep i was also given a spare tranny with tcase. i wonder if there is a way to see if it is better than the one that is in my jeep right now?
anywho i did i fluid change, and bled the system(hopefully it is done the same way as brakes) i can shift gears now. but peddle travel is still to much.
can anyone tell me if it takes just one day to do a clutch swap?
anywho i did i fluid change, and bled the system(hopefully it is done the same way as brakes) i can shift gears now. but peddle travel is still to much.
can anyone tell me if it takes just one day to do a clutch swap?
#5
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Year: 1998
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that depends on how good/quick you are and if nothing brakes..........also my friend had the same issue with a truck and his problem was greatly improved when he replaced the clutch cylinder on the pedal.....
#6
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Year: 1992
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you know it could also be the cylinder at the peddle, it looks as if it was replaced not too long ago. you can see where an old one was sitting with a bit of a different shape from the one that is in there now.. maybe i shouldnt asume that if new its good.
well i have done some clutch changes but not with tcase included.
well i have done some clutch changes but not with tcase included.
#7
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Year: 1988
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Clutch jobs are not that bad to do. But my question for OP is why are you saying to much clutch travel? either use the clutch (to the floor) or learn to float your gears. I cant stand people who dont know how to push a pedal all the way.
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#9
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agreed if you pull the tranny replace the clutch and get the flywheel resurfaced. Those are the same symtoms my XJ had. Also check the clutch master mine leaked all over my fuse box and gave me electrical problems for a month
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never thought to get the fly wheel resurfaced. i will keep that in mind. My clutch master wasnt leaking when i got it, but i did just noticed now that there is some leaking now. i am hoping next payday that i will go ahead and do the complete clutch system, and get the resurfacing done too. thanks for all the help.
#11
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Year: 1992
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I fixed the problem. it was the master cylinder on my clutch system that was shot. I soon realized that it was a used replacement. I got a new one put it in, lots of bleeding, and now my clutch is consistant and works well, shifting is so much better. pedde travels half way and i can shift.
the rest of the system is good far as i can tell. clutch has never slipped yet, and there is no noise from the throwout bearing either. it works so i will leave it.
i learned that the bearing and slave are as one.
also learned that some parts places sell complete kit, slave and clutch plate.
others sell seperatly and more expensive.
not sure if anyone else has done this, but if you have a clear hose about 2 to 3 inchs connected to the bleeder screw. it will help keep an eye on air coming out, and it will not spray every where. once there is no air left the clear hose will stay full of fluid.
the rest of the system is good far as i can tell. clutch has never slipped yet, and there is no noise from the throwout bearing either. it works so i will leave it.
i learned that the bearing and slave are as one.
also learned that some parts places sell complete kit, slave and clutch plate.
others sell seperatly and more expensive.
not sure if anyone else has done this, but if you have a clear hose about 2 to 3 inchs connected to the bleeder screw. it will help keep an eye on air coming out, and it will not spray every where. once there is no air left the clear hose will stay full of fluid.
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