Where can I get a replacement overflow container tube?

 

Auto parts stores sell that size/type tube by the foot. Take a short piece of the old stuff with u to get the right size.....measure twice, cut once.

 

Thanks!

A little update. I got the heater core backflush tool and was able to flush the heater core enough to get my heat working in the car. That tool is fantastic. What came out of those hoses though, yikes. Black, brown, then finally clear water. The good news, I believe the heater core is serviceable enough to not have to replace. Bad news, I still believe the rest of the system is in terrible condition, so I'm glad its getting replaced soon. I finally got all the rest of the parts in, so I'm going to try to tackle everything this weekend.

Quick question. What does the lower, smaller heater core hose connect to on the water pump? It seems like a metal tube that threads into the water pump. Mine looks to be almost completely rusted through.

 

when I flush a cooling system I add a little Cascade Diswasher soap(It doesn't foam up) with water, Drive it 5-10 miles and then flush it again with water before adding 50/50 mix or coolant and distilled water.

 

Thanks for the tip.

 

Got everything swapped out today. Took me almost all day of continuous working with minimal stoppage. I couldn't figure out how to swap the fan clutch because it wants to spin and won't let me break the torque. Also, the trans connection on the bottom drivers side leaked like a son-of-a-***** after the swap, so I had to slice off the connector and attach the hose directly over the nipple with a clamp. Probably a temporary solution, but it seemed like it worked. Heater gets HOT now and the engine actually reaches the halfway mark on the temp gauge. I feel pretty satisfied with today's work.

 

There's a special tool you can buy, but most of us just use a wrench or big screwdriver between the bolt heads to hold the thing in place. You stick it in there in such a way that you can keep it from turning while you're loosening/tightening the bolts. Cursing usually helps also. This is why I find it easier to do when the radiator isn't in the way, so that I can get a better position on it.

Keep an eye on it. If you see your temp creeping up in traffic, you'll need to get back in there and replace it.

That's not a high pressure connection, so that should be fine. I have mine clamped onto the radiator fittings and also patched with hose on the passenger side where it got smashed against my giant Brown Dog motor mount brackets. It's not under enough pressure for that to be a problem.

 

You can break the bolts loose on the fan clutch with the belt on. Break 'em loose, take the belt off, than remove the nuts the rest of the way.

 

Glad to hear you got it all together. Even in Florida, a working heater is nice! If nothing else, you can defrost your window in a rainstorm.

Did you add a bottle of Water Wetter to the new coolant? It's a very good idea, especially in Florida. That stuff really works.

 

No, I didn't. I'll probably pick one up and add it in there though. I had a puddle under my car when I left work this afternoon, but it doesn't seem like anything is leaking on the car and the coolant is still filled. It could have already been in the parking spot, but I don't think so. Its a mystery.

 

I tried that and the bolts were on there too tightly for that to work.

 

Just keep an eye on that coolant level. Adding a little will be normal as the system purges air. Antything beyond a little is a red flag. Don't add the Water Wetter until you're sure they cooling system is not leaking. You don't want to waste the $9.00.