Catalytic converter
#1
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Year: 2004 WJ, 1998 XJ
Model: Grand Cherokee(WJ)
Engine: 4.7 HO
Catalytic converter
My catalytic converter rusted off where it connects to the exhaust pipe closest to the engine. Advance Auto is showing Magnaflow and Walker either universal and direct fit. Which one is correct or is there another brand that I should go with? I'm assuming direct fit is best? Thanks.
#3
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 6 cylinder
I went with a Magnaflow direct replacement cat for my one cat exhaust system, no complaints.
On the other hand i replaced the muffler with a Walker that was a POS.
Ended up with a Flowmaster direct replacement, i think its called a super 50, no regrets.
On the other hand i replaced the muffler with a Walker that was a POS.
Ended up with a Flowmaster direct replacement, i think its called a super 50, no regrets.
#5
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Location: Mercer County, NJ
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
No offense, that walker is a POS. Had one and it rusted out at the ends and leaked. I haven't found a good moderate price muffler yet. Even the dyno.ax one I had lasted a good amount but that really rusted everywhere Lololololol.
#7
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Note from DJ
If you live in California you better by a California certified Cat.
I just had my 88 tested last week. It passed all the tests with less than average numbers which are less than the Maximum allowed numbers. But the technician doing the test surprised by saying you failed.
Why I asked when my numbers are all good?
He told me that as of a couple years ago you must have a certified California cat.
Well after more discussion about my failure he told me the whole story.
If I had my cat replaced before 2009 and had the paper work to prove it; bring him the paperwork proving it and I would not have to by another one.
I came home and found the paperwork dated 2003 returned to the test station; he looked at the paperwork and says you’re good to go. Keep the paper work and take it with you in two years so that you don’t have to go home and get it again.
If you live in California you better by a California certified Cat.
I just had my 88 tested last week. It passed all the tests with less than average numbers which are less than the Maximum allowed numbers. But the technician doing the test surprised by saying you failed.
Why I asked when my numbers are all good?
He told me that as of a couple years ago you must have a certified California cat.
Well after more discussion about my failure he told me the whole story.
If I had my cat replaced before 2009 and had the paper work to prove it; bring him the paperwork proving it and I would not have to by another one.
I came home and found the paperwork dated 2003 returned to the test station; he looked at the paperwork and says you’re good to go. Keep the paper work and take it with you in two years so that you don’t have to go home and get it again.
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#8
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 6 cylinder
The dam thing vibrated the Jeep at around 2k rpm.
And i mean a LOUD vibration. Maybe it was defective, who knows.
It was on my Jeep for only a couple days then replaced with the Flowmaster.
#9
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 6 cylinder
Note from DJ
If you live in California you better by a California certified Cat.
I just had my 88 tested last week. It passed all the tests with less than average numbers which are less than the Maximum allowed numbers. But the technician doing the test surprised by saying you failed.
Why I asked when my numbers are all good?
He told me that as of a couple years ago you must have a certified California cat.
Well after more discussion about my failure he told me the whole story.
If I had my cat replaced before 2009 and had the paper work to prove it; bring him the paperwork proving it and I would not have to by another one.
I came home and found the paperwork dated 2003 returned to the test station; he looked at the paperwork and says you’re good to go. Keep the paper work and take it with you in two years so that you don’t have to go home and get it again.
If you live in California you better by a California certified Cat.
I just had my 88 tested last week. It passed all the tests with less than average numbers which are less than the Maximum allowed numbers. But the technician doing the test surprised by saying you failed.
Why I asked when my numbers are all good?
He told me that as of a couple years ago you must have a certified California cat.
Well after more discussion about my failure he told me the whole story.
If I had my cat replaced before 2009 and had the paper work to prove it; bring him the paperwork proving it and I would not have to by another one.
I came home and found the paperwork dated 2003 returned to the test station; he looked at the paperwork and says you’re good to go. Keep the paper work and take it with you in two years so that you don’t have to go home and get it again.
#10
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
my walker was quiet, however I've heard that a lot.of the lm break on the inside and rattle. So if you get a good one you're good until the ends rust but if you get a bad one, eh.
#11
I recently had to replace the exhaust on my 98. I went with this cat converter.
direct replacement. I'm in VA so didn't need to worry about the CA laws.
I also went with walker due to cost. I did get the upgraded muffler though. WALKER 21357
direct replacement. I'm in VA so didn't need to worry about the CA laws.
I also went with walker due to cost. I did get the upgraded muffler though. WALKER 21357
#12
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
Iirc, if your jeep came with call emissions, your not suppose to alter it otherwise. Even if you don't live in Cali. I forgot.how that works though.
#13
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: Golen 4.6L
Not sure why people are talking about mufflers when OP didn't ask about mufflers. I think maybe y'all need some of them fancy fidget spinners to help you focus.
"Direct fit" in this context means it will have the flanges on it to bolt to the flanges on the factory crossover pipe and cat-back. The universal fit converters don't have that flange, so they won't just bolt on. They have to either be welded or clamped in place.
Which one you need depends on whether you still have the flanges on your other exhaust parts. If you still have the flanges, you can buy the direct fit and bolt it up with a couple of wrenches. If your flanges rusted off or were otherwise removed, the universal fit will be $20-30 cheaper without those flanges you can't use anyway.
Also, keep in mind that if you buy direct fit, you'll want to get the correct one for your emissions system. In 2000 you had a California version that didn't have a bung for an O2 sensor in the main cat, and an EPA version that did. You can look on the firewall in front of the driver inside the engine bay to see which emissions version you have. Or you can just look under the vehicle and see if your main cat has an O2 sensor sticking out of it. If it does, it should be EPA.
If you have the EPA emissions and inadvertently buy the CA version, you won't have anywhere to plug in the O2 sensor. If you have the CA emissions and buy the EPA version, you'll have to plug that hole.
I just price checked the Walker direct fit EPA version, and it's $46 cheaper at Amazon for the exact same part. Although that may not be the exact one you need, I would definitely suggest shopping around and not just buying it at Advance unless you need it quickly.
Magnaflow makes a quality product. Walker is meh but usable.
If you end up going with a universal fit, some people have reported good results from Performance-Curve.com. They make universal high-flow cats that are a LOT cheaper than Magnaflow.
"Direct fit" in this context means it will have the flanges on it to bolt to the flanges on the factory crossover pipe and cat-back. The universal fit converters don't have that flange, so they won't just bolt on. They have to either be welded or clamped in place.
Which one you need depends on whether you still have the flanges on your other exhaust parts. If you still have the flanges, you can buy the direct fit and bolt it up with a couple of wrenches. If your flanges rusted off or were otherwise removed, the universal fit will be $20-30 cheaper without those flanges you can't use anyway.
Also, keep in mind that if you buy direct fit, you'll want to get the correct one for your emissions system. In 2000 you had a California version that didn't have a bung for an O2 sensor in the main cat, and an EPA version that did. You can look on the firewall in front of the driver inside the engine bay to see which emissions version you have. Or you can just look under the vehicle and see if your main cat has an O2 sensor sticking out of it. If it does, it should be EPA.
If you have the EPA emissions and inadvertently buy the CA version, you won't have anywhere to plug in the O2 sensor. If you have the CA emissions and buy the EPA version, you'll have to plug that hole.
I just price checked the Walker direct fit EPA version, and it's $46 cheaper at Amazon for the exact same part. Although that may not be the exact one you need, I would definitely suggest shopping around and not just buying it at Advance unless you need it quickly.
If you end up going with a universal fit, some people have reported good results from Performance-Curve.com. They make universal high-flow cats that are a LOT cheaper than Magnaflow.
#15
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: NJ
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Year: 2004 WJ, 1998 XJ
Model: Grand Cherokee(WJ)
Engine: 4.7 HO
Not sure why people are talking about mufflers when OP didn't ask about mufflers. I think maybe y'all need some of them fancy fidget spinners to help you focus.
"Direct fit" in this context means it will have the flanges on it to bolt to the flanges on the factory crossover pipe and cat-back. The universal fit converters don't have that flange, so they won't just bolt on. They have to either be welded or clamped in place.
Which one you need depends on whether you still have the flanges on your other exhaust parts. If you still have the flanges, you can buy the direct fit and bolt it up with a couple of wrenches. If your flanges rusted off or were otherwise removed, the universal fit will be $20-30 cheaper without those flanges you can't use anyway.
Also, keep in mind that if you buy direct fit, you'll want to get the correct one for your emissions system. In 2000 you had a California version that didn't have a bung for an O2 sensor in the main cat, and an EPA version that did. You can look on the firewall in front of the driver inside the engine bay to see which emissions version you have. Or you can just look under the vehicle and see if your main cat has an O2 sensor sticking out of it. If it does, it should be EPA.
If you have the EPA emissions and inadvertently buy the CA version, you won't have anywhere to plug in the O2 sensor. If you have the CA emissions and buy the EPA version, you'll have to plug that hole.
I just price checked the Walker direct fit EPA version, and it's $46 cheaper at Amazon for the exact same part. Although that may not be the exact one you need, I would definitely suggest shopping around and not just buying it at Advance unless you need it quickly.
Magnaflow makes a quality product. Walker is meh but usable.
If you end up going with a universal fit, some people have reported good results from Performance-Curve.com. They make universal high-flow cats that are a LOT cheaper than Magnaflow.
"Direct fit" in this context means it will have the flanges on it to bolt to the flanges on the factory crossover pipe and cat-back. The universal fit converters don't have that flange, so they won't just bolt on. They have to either be welded or clamped in place.
Which one you need depends on whether you still have the flanges on your other exhaust parts. If you still have the flanges, you can buy the direct fit and bolt it up with a couple of wrenches. If your flanges rusted off or were otherwise removed, the universal fit will be $20-30 cheaper without those flanges you can't use anyway.
Also, keep in mind that if you buy direct fit, you'll want to get the correct one for your emissions system. In 2000 you had a California version that didn't have a bung for an O2 sensor in the main cat, and an EPA version that did. You can look on the firewall in front of the driver inside the engine bay to see which emissions version you have. Or you can just look under the vehicle and see if your main cat has an O2 sensor sticking out of it. If it does, it should be EPA.
If you have the EPA emissions and inadvertently buy the CA version, you won't have anywhere to plug in the O2 sensor. If you have the CA emissions and buy the EPA version, you'll have to plug that hole.
I just price checked the Walker direct fit EPA version, and it's $46 cheaper at Amazon for the exact same part. Although that may not be the exact one you need, I would definitely suggest shopping around and not just buying it at Advance unless you need it quickly.
Magnaflow makes a quality product. Walker is meh but usable.
If you end up going with a universal fit, some people have reported good results from Performance-Curve.com. They make universal high-flow cats that are a LOT cheaper than Magnaflow.
Also, I had a Walker Quiet Flow exhaust on there without any problems. I could not for the life of me get the exhaust and the Catalytic converter apart without damaging the muffler. So I ended up getting another quiet flow. Hate being in the Northeast with all of the salt.
Installation was easy but in the process, the exhaust hanger for the pipe in front of the CC broke. Going to attempt to get this welded.