FlyingLow

OK.... So i was organizing my glove box today and as I went to climb outta my passenger seat, my foot went through the floor. I've decided to bite the bullet and remove my carpet and try to fix the rust and eventually bed-line the floors. I know welding in new metal is usually the best route but I do not have access to a welder. Is it possible (and safe for that matter) to pop rivet in the new metal and bondo the seams? Also the carpet removal seems pretty straight forward but has anyone run into any snags or have any tips to make the process easier for a first-timer?

parkerbabco

id find someone who has a welder instead of pop rivets

Mike1998XJ

If your that rusted here are a few things you will most likely run into to take your carpet out...
1. The bolts that hold the front seats go through the floor on my 1998. I would assume some of your bolts do that as well? I would suggest trying one bolt and see if you can undo it. Take one near the rusty area and see if you can get that out. If it won't come out you know your headed for a fun time...
2. The trim around the exterior of the floor needs to come out as it holds the carpet in. This too has various screws that are exposed to the elements under the jeep. Your best shot at getting those out is an impact driver. Do you have one of those? You can buy one at Sears. If you try with a regular screw driver and blow it on the first try then your faced with screwing around trying to get all those out also.
That's all I can think of for now. If I was going to fix that jeep I'd plan on it being off the road for a while depending on how much time you have to put in it.
Anyway... Fred Flintstone didn't have floors! Think on the bright side, If your brakes fail you can brake like Fred did!

FlyingLow

Thanks for the help mike. Mine actually came apart quite easily with a just a few well placed sprays of PB blaster on the seat bolts and only one broke. Much more rust than I anticipated though. Any one know of any reputable companies with reproduction floor kits?

offroadnut36

here is a link for the driver side floor
http://raybuck.com/i-88824-1984-01-j...ection-lh.html

Here is the link for the pass. side
http://raybuck.com/i-88825-1984-01-j...ection-rh.html

Mike1998XJ

Well that's half the battle! You may as well go further now! I assume the metal on the floor (The tunnel) is ok and you just have to replace the floorboard area under where your feet go right? Those are fairly straight pieces and you could just buy metal sheets to weld in there. That's what I've done in the past... Cut along the tunnel to floor joint leaving as much good floor as possible then borrow a welder and weld the sheet metal in. You just have to clamp it and hammer it as you go to form it.
For that matter you could do the old quick fix like you were saying before... I think I'd use small bolts instead of rivits though to hold the new sheet metal in. Put some good caulk in there to seal the joints and drive it. If it's that rotten you could end up sinking way more time and money into than you want...
Just my 2 cents... Do it cheap and have fun!

bigbadxj

I re did floor pans on a '92 Camaro which is also a uni-body car and it is a PAIN. I cut i all out an welded in new sheet metal and then covered the inside and undercarriage with Rust bullet.

Mike1998XJ

Yea, if you have to do the tunnel as well as the rest of the floor that royally sucks...

FlyingLow

Luckily my tunnel was in rust free condition. I just gotta figure out how to secure the seam by the doors cause there's no good metal salvageable to leave a lip to attach to. At this point its still worth it cause I had the brakes, all lines, entire fuel system minus the rail and injectors, ignition, radiator, pulley's and belts, tires, exhaust, cps, (and thats just from the auto shop) plus my various fixes done within this past 5k miles. Heck I'll probably have basically built a new vehicle by the time this is done. If I cant fix it I'll just wheel it till it wont wheel no more. Thanks for the help guys!