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Canada built 98' XJ map/dome lights not matching

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Old Sep 6, 2015 | 06:52 PM
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Default Canada built 98' XJ map/dome lights not matching

Hey all,

I just picked up a new 98 Cherokee Limited that was a Canada build.

All the charts show 561 as the long bulb that fits in the front and middle map lights as well as the hatch dome light.

The rear dome fit's very tightly a 561-one off that has the copper rings and fat ends. However it wont go out the clicker is broken.

The map lights however: the 561 does not stay in at all the prongs are larger but not with circular indents as the rear hatch to hold a round bulb.

They don't appear bent or modified at all. Any ideas of what long bulbs would fit this 98 XJ canada build?

Thanks.
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Old Sep 7, 2015 | 02:47 PM
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Bump with pictures added in hopes I can get some feedback.

This is the rear cargo prongs, you can see they have rounded area to hold bulbs.




This is the overhead console prongs, you can see they are pretty straight and a bit wider than normal but not as wide as the rear hatch light.
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Old Sep 7, 2015 | 03:21 PM
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I feel silly asking, but this is an XJ Cherokee isn't it.


Every single source I look at has the bulb numbers you stated. The Wrangler has a different number. The GC may have a different number as well but I don't have a catalog or FSM for the GC.


If all else fails, take an old bulb with you to O'reilly Auto Parts (or other auto parts store, like NAPA) and see if you can match it up.
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Old Sep 7, 2015 | 03:24 PM
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See if you can PM salad https://www.cherokeeforum.com/members/salad-49254/


He lives in Ontario Canada. Maybe he can check out some Canadian parts stores.
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Old Sep 7, 2015 | 04:20 PM
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Hey there,

Yes it's an XJ Cherokee.

I agree, its quite silly that the sizes listed everywhere are not a direct fit.

Unfortunatly the truck came with no bulbs, even the kick pannel in passanger bulb is gone.

I wonder if there was an electrical issue that blew them all and they haven't been replaced since.

Thank you for that resource "Salad" I sent a PM over his way and will hope for some guidance!

Thank's again!
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Old Sep 7, 2015 | 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by BluJay
Hey there,

Yes it's an XJ Cherokee.

I agree, its quite silly that the sizes listed everywhere are not a direct fit.

Unfortunatly the truck came with no bulbs, even the kick pannel in passanger bulb is gone.

I wonder if there was an electrical issue that blew them all and they haven't been replaced since.

Thank you for that resource "Salad" I sent a PM over his way and will hope for some guidance!

Thank's again!

Good luck.
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Old Sep 7, 2015 | 08:18 PM
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No bulb difference in CA vs US built XJs. Should be the same internationally. In fact, very little is different.

I can go check out the cargo light in my '99 if you want. I probably won't be able to pull a part number off of it, though.
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Old Sep 7, 2015 | 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by salad
No bulb difference in CA vs US built XJs. Should be the same internationally. In fact, very little is different.

I can go check out the cargo light in my '99 if you want. I probably won't be able to pull a part number off of it, though.

Thank's for the follow up, If you could that would be great.

It looks like I can fit the cargo one once I fix the clicker/door closed light off buttons.

The map lights are the killer for me, I wonder if your front's look like my cargo or maybe you have to twist the 561's horizontal and force them in somehow?
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Old Sep 8, 2015 | 09:47 AM
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This is odd. I thought the '97 + XJ's were all built at the Toledo #1 plant.


11th digit in the Vin Code - L=Toledo


Earlier XJ's could have been built at the Brampton, Ontario plant.


11th Digit in the Vin code - J=Brampton, T=Toledo


What is your entire VIN?
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Old Sep 8, 2015 | 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by CCKen
This is odd. I thought the '97 + XJ's were all built at the Toledo #1 plant.

11th digit in the Vin Code - L=Toledo

Earlier XJ's could have been built at the Brampton, Ontario plant.

11th Digit in the Vin code - J=Brampton, T=Toledo

What is your entire VIN?
Looks like Toledo

1J4FJ78S8WL236970. It's an Early April 98 build.
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Old Sep 9, 2015 | 06:47 AM
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You could try some LED bulbs.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from...201998%20Sport
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Old Sep 9, 2015 | 12:48 PM
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Default Troubleshooting Lights and replacing them

Someone say LED?

As far as I know, the OHC and Cargo lamps use the same lights in stock form. The metal prongs have a bit of give to them and if I recall, the OHC bulbs are considerably more difficult to remove than the cargo bulb.

I use the same lights for both purposes in my XJ and ZJ kits. I recommend the cargo prongs be compressed a bit before installing the LED.

The "clicker" part of the lamps are the same switch model in XJs and ZJs. There is one in each OHC light and one in the cargo lamp. If you are looking for them in a JY, a standard dome lamp assembly has two switches that match as well.

The most likely reason that the lights are removed is that there is a short in the system, so the lights aren't turning off.

It can be really tough to trace down, because a problem anywhere in any of the wiring that runs to the OHC, Cargo Lamp, any door, hatch, and main light switch can cause it. In my case, I installed a cubby subwoofer box and screwed through a wire, completing the "on" circuit.

As far as replacing the lights, I suggest pulling stock bulbs if you're on a super low budget... LEDs otherwise... at least partially cause that's my thing.
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Old Sep 17, 2015 | 02:21 PM
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I believe I can Modify them to hold the fat bulbs that fit in the rear.

I'll just have to bend the prong's a little; it seems to work.

First I need to chase down my short that's causing all the lights to stay on.

My front two speakers came not working so I hope/assume its right there in the door jam. Also the dimmer switch gets funky sometimes and cuts out the lights so that may be it as well.

Thanks for all who tried to help me fit the right bulbs, who knows what was originally in there.
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Old Sep 18, 2015 | 08:24 AM
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Originally Posted by BluJay
I believe I can Modify them to hold the fat bulbs that fit in the rear.

I'll just have to bend the prong's a little; it seems to work.

First I need to chase down my short that's causing all the lights to stay on.

My front two speakers came not working so I hope/assume its right there in the door jam. Also the dimmer switch gets funky sometimes and cuts out the lights so that may be it as well.

Thanks for all who tried to help me fit the right bulbs, who knows what was originally in there.
I'd start with the following:

1. Close all doors and ensure interior lights are otherwise off. Install lights - incandescent stock bulb(s) suggested. (To do this, with the key in and power 'on' make sure your instrument backlighting and headlights are off. The circuit needs to be able to turn off once the problem is found.)

2. Open driver door and depress plunger switch in door jamb. If the lights go out when pressing by hand but not by closing the door, remove the switch and reinstall with a washer between it and the door jamb.

3. Conduct same procedure with rear hatch followed by each other door.

4. Shake / rattle wiring harnesses under driver side dash. Most likely place for a short to ground other than a malfunctioning switch is in the driver's door area. The wires are thin and deteriorate over time.

5. Depending on vehicle customization, there could be a problem elsewhere like the one I mentioned in my XJ. I found it by getting in the jeep and banging my fist on interior panels until I found a bang that caused lights to flicker. I then removed a half dozen trim parts to get to the wire I screwed up.

Anyway, this should put you in the right direction and hopefully save some time.
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Old Sep 21, 2015 | 01:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Snajo
I'd start with the following:

1. Close all doors and ensure interior lights are otherwise off. Install lights - incandescent stock bulb(s) suggested. (To do this, with the key in and power 'on' make sure your instrument backlighting and headlights are off. The circuit needs to be able to turn off once the problem is found.)

2. Open driver door and depress plunger switch in door jamb. If the lights go out when pressing by hand but not by closing the door, remove the switch and reinstall with a washer between it and the door jamb.

3. Conduct same procedure with rear hatch followed by each other door.

4. Shake / rattle wiring harnesses under driver side dash. Most likely place for a short to ground other than a malfunctioning switch is in the driver's door area. The wires are thin and deteriorate over time.

5. Depending on vehicle customization, there could be a problem elsewhere like the one I mentioned in my XJ. I found it by getting in the jeep and banging my fist on interior panels until I found a bang that caused lights to flicker. I then removed a half dozen trim parts to get to the wire I screwed up.

Anyway, this should put you in the right direction and hopefully save some time.
Just to clearify, I should have the key in on position and dash and headlights off. The inside light's dimmer switch should be off as well?
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