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Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
I feel silly asking, but this is an XJ Cherokee isn't it.
Every single source I look at has the bulb numbers you stated. The Wrangler has a different number. The GC may have a different number as well but I don't have a catalog or FSM for the GC.
If all else fails, take an old bulb with you to O'reilly Auto Parts (or other auto parts store, like NAPA) and see if you can match it up.
No bulb difference in CA vs US built XJs. Should be the same internationally. In fact, very little is different.
I can go check out the cargo light in my '99 if you want. I probably won't be able to pull a part number off of it, though.
Thank's for the follow up, If you could that would be great.
It looks like I can fit the cargo one once I fix the clicker/door closed light off buttons.
The map lights are the killer for me, I wonder if your front's look like my cargo or maybe you have to twist the 561's horizontal and force them in somehow?
As far as I know, the OHC and Cargo lamps use the same lights in stock form. The metal prongs have a bit of give to them and if I recall, the OHC bulbs are considerably more difficult to remove than the cargo bulb.
I use the same lights for both purposes in my XJ and ZJ kits. I recommend the cargo prongs be compressed a bit before installing the LED.
The "clicker" part of the lamps are the same switch model in XJs and ZJs. There is one in each OHC light and one in the cargo lamp. If you are looking for them in a JY, a standard dome lamp assembly has two switches that match as well.
The most likely reason that the lights are removed is that there is a short in the system, so the lights aren't turning off.
It can be really tough to trace down, because a problem anywhere in any of the wiring that runs to the OHC, Cargo Lamp, any door, hatch, and main light switch can cause it. In my case, I installed a cubby subwoofer box and screwed through a wire, completing the "on" circuit.
As far as replacing the lights, I suggest pulling stock bulbs if you're on a super low budget... LEDs otherwise... at least partially cause that's my thing.
I believe I can Modify them to hold the fat bulbs that fit in the rear.
I'll just have to bend the prong's a little; it seems to work.
First I need to chase down my short that's causing all the lights to stay on.
My front two speakers came not working so I hope/assume its right there in the door jam. Also the dimmer switch gets funky sometimes and cuts out the lights so that may be it as well.
Thanks for all who tried to help me fit the right bulbs, who knows what was originally in there.
I believe I can Modify them to hold the fat bulbs that fit in the rear.
I'll just have to bend the prong's a little; it seems to work.
First I need to chase down my short that's causing all the lights to stay on.
My front two speakers came not working so I hope/assume its right there in the door jam. Also the dimmer switch gets funky sometimes and cuts out the lights so that may be it as well.
Thanks for all who tried to help me fit the right bulbs, who knows what was originally in there.
I'd start with the following:
1. Close all doors and ensure interior lights are otherwise off. Install lights - incandescent stock bulb(s) suggested. (To do this, with the key in and power 'on' make sure your instrument backlighting and headlights are off. The circuit needs to be able to turn off once the problem is found.)
2. Open driver door and depress plunger switch in door jamb. If the lights go out when pressing by hand but not by closing the door, remove the switch and reinstall with a washer between it and the door jamb.
3. Conduct same procedure with rear hatch followed by each other door.
4. Shake / rattle wiring harnesses under driver side dash. Most likely place for a short to ground other than a malfunctioning switch is in the driver's door area. The wires are thin and deteriorate over time.
5. Depending on vehicle customization, there could be a problem elsewhere like the one I mentioned in my XJ. I found it by getting in the jeep and banging my fist on interior panels until I found a bang that caused lights to flicker. I then removed a half dozen trim parts to get to the wire I screwed up.
Anyway, this should put you in the right direction and hopefully save some time.
1. Close all doors and ensure interior lights are otherwise off. Install lights - incandescent stock bulb(s) suggested. (To do this, with the key in and power 'on' make sure your instrument backlighting and headlights are off. The circuit needs to be able to turn off once the problem is found.)
2. Open driver door and depress plunger switch in door jamb. If the lights go out when pressing by hand but not by closing the door, remove the switch and reinstall with a washer between it and the door jamb.
3. Conduct same procedure with rear hatch followed by each other door.
4. Shake / rattle wiring harnesses under driver side dash. Most likely place for a short to ground other than a malfunctioning switch is in the driver's door area. The wires are thin and deteriorate over time.
5. Depending on vehicle customization, there could be a problem elsewhere like the one I mentioned in my XJ. I found it by getting in the jeep and banging my fist on interior panels until I found a bang that caused lights to flicker. I then removed a half dozen trim parts to get to the wire I screwed up.
Anyway, this should put you in the right direction and hopefully save some time.
Just to clearify, I should have the key in on position and dash and headlights off. The inside light's dimmer switch should be off as well?