Can rear seal be replaced w/o pulling motor?
 

My motor's rear main seal started leaking. Can that be replaced by pulling the tranny and not the motor?

If so, any advice? If not, wanna buy a good, but leaking, '94? LOL

You can replace the RMS w/o pulling the trannie and motor. I haven't done mine yet, but you can find plenty of information here and even look on You Tube. There are 3 or 4 video's on XJ RMS repair. I also plan on using the FelPro one piece oil pan gasket.

Should be able to handle with standard tools.

You can do it easily. Get yourself a brass drift and a BFH. you'll also need some good pliers to pull the seal the rest of the way. Mine was seized in there pretty good, but still only took about an hour. Easy job if you're mechanically inclined.

Thanks, fellas. You just made my day.

I just took out my inspection plate and dropped the oil pan :cheers:

Sure it's the RMS and not the back of the valve cover leaking down there?

Leaking oil filter adapter seals and leaking oil sending unit can mimmick a RMS leak.

If it's a manual tranny you could also be looking at the front tranny seal. I had to replace mine after discovering that I still had a leak after doing the rear main seal.

i did mine in about 30mins .

popped pan off
pulled rear main baering cap / half the sael is in the cap
lossened last 3 piston bearing caps
take a small brass drift like stated before and push the sael around the crank
pull seal out with pliers
oil new seal and push into place. on top side of crank
also oil the cap side seal
put cap main bearing cap on , torque everything to spec
may as well do a pan seal at the same time

its a piece of cake especaily if u have a lifted jeep , pan just slides out haha

good luck

^ I highly doubt you got that done in 30mins... and you forgot that you have to drop the girdle and add a bit of liquid gasket to the "ears" of the seal; under the bearing cap. Yes, it does help to have a lifted truck, hell I think most everything we do it helps to be lifted aside from pulling motor.

To answer the OP, you don't pull either to replace the rear main. Be careful not to scratch the crank with a steel punch and make sure when you use a punch that you're pushing off the metal piece that's inside the seal, and not just the rubber part. Otherwise you'll end up destroying it and make it harder to get out.

This job takes as long as your jeep wants it to. The hardest part i had to do was get the oil pan out from under the stupid jeep. It was a 2 day fight, but i won, and now i own a car that doesnt leak oil. Thats a first for me.