Mopar2000

Hey everybody. I'm new to the Cherokee Forum and got a question for ya'll. I've got a 2000 Jeep XJ that needs a new heater core. I was wondering if anybody's done one and can tell me a little bout the process. I know it's wicked expensive to have a shop do, and I can't afford that so I've gotta do it myself. Any info or even links to websites with info would be much appreciated. Thanks!

NewKindOfClown

I haven't done an XJ heater core myself, but here's a great, detailed walkthrough:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/m...thread-592844/

jpz

Bummer that all of the pictures are removed from that walkthrough.

NewKindOfClown

Ah, sorry. I assumed they were just blocked on my work computer. Sorry, OP. Let me know if that isn't clear enough, and I'll do my best to further assist

Bfritz97

I replaced my heater core and evaporator a few months ago and it really wasn't that bad if you're patient. I'll try to remember what I can, but the link that someone else posted is helpful.
First drain the coolant, disconnect hoses and battery. My heater hoses were baked on so I just cut them off. I also flushed the cooling system, but that's optional. If you still have refrigerant in your AC, it will need to be recovered. Then disconnect the AC lines using quick disconnect tools. I had the best luck with the plastic ones.

Next, inside the jeep, remove the steering wheel. Make sure the battery has been disconnected for a while so the airbag doesn't go off. The airbag is held in with 2 bolts and then there's an electrical connection on the back. Unplug the other wires in the steering wheel and remove it using a steering wheel pulling tool.
Then start taking dash pieces off. The middle bezel around the radio just pops off from the bottom. Take the glove box out with a few screws in the bottom. Remove the knee blockers (plastic then metal) from below the steering wheel. They're just held in with a few screws/bolts and I think some snaps on the top edge (so just pull down and out after the screws are out). There might be a ground on one of the knee blocker screws so don't forget it later. The headlamp switch has a release button under the dash that should now be visible, stick a screwdriver up in there to press the button, then rotate the headlamp switch all the way to the left and pull it out. Also remove the kick panels in the footwells. They're held in with a couple of screws/bolts. Take out the first two screws on the panel beneath the door and then work the kick panels out from behind them.

At some point, remove the middle console. First, put the transmission in 1/2, and pull the handle off while holding the shift button. This is easiest from the backseat. Then, pop off the bezels around the transmission and transfer case shifters and take the light bulbs out. Remove the armrest/console lid by taking out the two screws in the hinge. Take out two more screws from inside the storage bin and the two screws by the transfer case and transmission. (The longer screw goes back to the transmission). The middle console should now come out.

Now remove the piece that surrounds the instrument panel and most of the left part of the dash. There are a few screws near the radio and AC controls and then some snaps, so pull it forward. You will have to disconnect the rubber piece that surrounds the steering column, which just slides apart at the bottom. Then, you should be able to pull the top plastic piece of the dash towards you and out. It's held in with a few clips. (You may have to lift the front (away from the windshield) part up first and then out.). I removed the instrument cluster but that was probably unnecessary.

I took out all of the bolts for the steering column ( I think there were 4 with tilt steering) so the column could hang out of the way. At some point, you'll have to disconnect the cable that controls the heat level. Unfortunately, I don't remember how I did that but you have to disconnect it somewhere. I think I disconnected mine from the back of the climate controls). You also need to disconnect your antenna (near where the glove box was) and also a few electrical and vaccumm connections near the HVAC box. At this point, unless I forgot something, you should be ready to remove the final dash bolts. There is a bracket with four bolts in the center on the transmission tunnel. Remove it. Along the bottom of the windshield there are 4 ( I think) bolts and 2 nuts that need removed. Loosen the two roll down bolts that are in the passenger and driver footwells about a quarter inch. If you have lights in the footwells, I think they see close to them. I had trouble finding them at first, but they are fairly large and not painted, which might help you find them. The dash should be ready to separate from the firewall now. I did this by myself but it's way easier with another person. Lift up the dash so it clears the top studs and then pull it away from the firewall. Rotate the dash so that there is room to get the HVAC box out on the passenger side.

Now you have to remove 5(?) bolts from the firewall on the engine bay. Two are also holding the AC accumulator bracket, two are almost directly behind the engine, and I think the last one is close to the passenger fender. The ones behind the engine are kind of a pain but accessible with a box end wrench and patience.

The HVAC box should now come free and you should be able to get it out the passenger door. Take pictures of where the vaccumm lines go and how they're routed and label all of them. Then disconnect them and remove all of the bolts around the lip of the box. There are a few that you'll have to look for in other places on the box. You might have to remove the blower motor now too. It's held in with 3(?) bolts. And there's some sort of foam ring around it that you have to carefully peel off. You'll also have to very carefully remove the foam around the heater/Evap pipes. Mine was pretty hard around the heater pipes and was very brittle. Try not to damage it too much because I couldn't find them for sale anywhere. I think the HVAC box should come apart into two halves at this point. Then, just remove the heater core (and Evap if you're replacing it, I would since they're cheap online and you already have the dash apart). Put the new core in where the old one was. Then reassemble the box, making sure all the vaccuum lines are in the correct places, and put the box back in the jeep. Assembly is basically the opposite of disassembly. Before you put all of the trim panels, steering wheel, console, etc. back on, fill up the coolant and make sure the heater works and doesn't leak. Evacuate and recharge the AC too, make sure it doesn't leak. Then disconnect the battery again and reinstall everything else.

This took me about 3 days, but I wasn't in a huge hurry. 2-3 days is probably to be expected if you've never done this. I took a lot of pictures, kept all the bolts sorted, in order, and labeled. The factory service manual was extremely helpful. I can help you get one if needed. I also kept a list of all of the electrical and vacuum lines I disconnected so I didn't forget any.

Feel free to ask questions. I hope this helps you and anyone doing this in the future. If I think of anything else, I'll post it on here

BrawnyDog

^^^ thanks for that write up, I'm going to need to do this before harsh weather hits.
I have a question about the foam around the hoses. Would spray foam work if the og foam is damaged?
What about the seals? Is there a good product in case they get torn? I'd like to have everything on hand before tackling this and I can foresee my breaking brittle stuff.

Motojunky

I just did mine. Some thoughts from my job are here:

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/one...thread-239011/

There's a .pdf floating around of the detailed write up with images included. It is posted several times in the pages and pages of comments. Hang on...

http://buckeyejeeps.com/stuff/XJEvapReplacement.pdf

Have fun!

BrawnyDog

Ha, I just downloaded that on my phone, I've looked at so many threads on this I'm sure I've read yours.

Motojunky

99+ have an electric motor on the bottom of the HVAC box to control the blend door. No temperature control cable to deal with. One less thing.

Motojunky

I read so much on it that I was prepared for battle. The job was much easier than all of the discussion would lead you to believe. It's just slow.

rzldzl

theres several youtubes of ppl doing it WITHOUT removing steering wheel and only removing the passenger side of dash and pull it back, saving you from taking the drivers side off

BrawnyDog

I was going to Netflix and chill with girl Friday night, but might have to YouTube and chill

Motojunky

+1. I did not remove the steering wheel/column.

Tbone289

That doesn't sound quite as exciting for either of you...

andrewmp6

The reason it cost so much is the labor its a lot of hours to fully remove the dash and stuff.