Broke bolt(s) when removing seats, know where to get spares?
 

I broke these two bolt's when removing the front seats from my cherokee, they were really stubborn and would'nt budge so me being just as stubborn kept trying to get them out and ended up breaking them :brickwall:, they are the same bolts on both sides, i noticed that they go all the way through the underside of the cherokee so i'm gonna try removing the remainder like that, my question is..where can i find these bolt's??!? :help:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...rokenbolt1.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...rokenbolt2.jpg

just drill the bolts out or knock em out with a airchisle or hammer then get regular nuts and bolts from local hardware store

yeah just get regular ones, it wont hurt nothin

If you manage to extract the screws and salvage the threads, they're M8-1.25. If not, you can overdrill them to clear an M8 or 5/16" without any trouble at all, just use nuts and washers on the bottom (I suggest using a rubber-bonded washer to seal the body area. You can back that up with a flat washer overtop of it to improve bearing surface. Prime and paint the cut edge of the metal.

(You can probably even drill it out to 3/8" and remove most of the nutsert below, but I'm not sure if the seat mounting flange will easily pass a 3/8" screw.)

.
 

i was getting worried i would have to find special bolts for it because i noticed they have a slight trianguler shape to them, now just to get them out of there..ill try the techniques you guys said, thanks for the insight!

"Slight triangular shape?" The OEM screws have a "pilot point" on them (very cool, very difficult to find, not strictly necessary) and the OEM nuts have a triangular stamping on them to deform the uppermost threads for a locking action (it's called a "deformed thread locknut.") This can be addressed using internal star washers - hard to find in ISO, so use a 5/16" SAE (since it's about the same size anyhow) if you can't find a flanged nut with serrations under or a deformed thread or Nylon collar locknut (don't bother with split lockwashers. I've never liked those, and they don't make any sense at all to me... They get locking action from being split, but get flattened under the nut. Hah?)

They are putting spring tension/friction on the nut when they are flattened.

This keeps the nut from backing off. They lock it into place.

If you go to the hardware store, I would get at least Grade 5 hardware. Don't get the plain cheap stuff. Grade 8 would be overkill but won't hurt.

In case of an accident, you don't want those bolts breaking off.

If he replaces them with ISO, the SAE grades won't apply.

Most of the ISO hardware you're going to find in that size will be either PC 8.8 (roughly equivalent to SAE5) or 10.9 (not quite SAE8.)

This becomes a case where I'd much rather go with the stronger hardware, tho. The extra few cents is well worth it!