Dfread

Hey simple question, where can I buy grade 8 bleeder screws. I don't want them to round off ever.
Napa has two types and it appears that the ones for my 9" brakes are regular steel.
Front regular are ( 1" 3/8-24) whereas the grade 8 are ( 1.19" 3/8-24)
Rear regular are ( 1.02" 5/16-24) whereas the grade 8 are ( 1.19" 3/8-24)

Can I just use the grade 8 ones? Will they be too long? I don't want to buy them and just try it, fearing that I might damage something in the cylinder or make the jeep gods mad. For the rear would the size difference matter or is it just the size of the nut on the bleeder.

Or am I just over doing this and will the regular ones be perfectly fine if I just put some anti seize on it . I would figure that the ones from the factory would be good quality and I almost rounded off one of them. Thank you.

Turbo X_J

"I don't want them to round off ever."

Move to Arizona.

j/k
For the amount of time you actually need to use a bleeder screw, it's not worth fooling with.

HCCAFan

Use a quality and correctly sized socket or six point wrench to break them loose.

freegdr

We have a winner...

DieselD

Also... don't over tighten them and if you can find them they make rubber caps for bleeder screws. Might keep em a little less corroded.

Dfread

You've got to be kidding me. I haven't felt this stupid in a long time, keep up the good work. -1 for Devin

freegdr

lol just don't tighten them so tight really makes a difference.

cruiser54

We don't want any rusty vehicles coming here. Remember, we have tough immigration laws.

cruiser54

A winner in my book. No reason you can't use a six-point wrench or socket on the bleeders..........

Radi

Oh heck, over here in the salt belt that just means you don't round them off before snapping them in half at the caliper.
Penetrating oil and heat @ the caliper while crossing your fingers with the 6-point wrench and they might come off again a few years later. I put a very small amount of nickel-based anti-seize on them, avoiding the bottom few threads.

5-90

SAE8 bleed screws don't exist - they don't fit within the SAE specs. However:

1) Always use a six-point wrench on bleeder screws. Always.
2) If a bleeder screw feels stuck, replace it.
3) Always use a six-point wrench on bleeder screws. Always.
4) The first time you loosen a bleeder screw (or when you replace one,) coat the threads with never-seez. Be generous, just keep it off of the "sealing cone" (you'll know what I'm talking about when you see it.)
5) Always use a six-point wrench on bleeder screws. Always.
6) When done bleeding, turn the screw tight with your fingertips, then one-quarter turn additional with the wrench. Overtighten the screws, and you'll be replacing far more than you originally intended!
7) Always use a six-point wrench on bleeder screws. Always.
8) If you live in a "Rust Belt" state, you may want to replace your bleed screws whenever you bleed your brakes or change your brake fluid. Treat as above.
9) Always use a six-point wrench on bleeder screws. Always.

(Yes, Rule #1 is in there five times. It's that damned important!)

5-90

The rubber cap mainly serves to keep crud out of the bleeder channel - if you vacuum bleed your brakes, the bleed screw will be flushed out almost immediately anyhow (if you pressure bleed, it damned sure will. Gravity bleeding? Not so much.)

See my previous post. These are tips I've used on nearly everything - cars, light trucks, medium trucks, heavy trucks, forklifts, man lifts, OHV/Off-Highway construction equipment, ...

XJRed96

replace bleeder screws and crack them open twice a year until they start to drip just to keep everything moving. as long as there is fluid coming out of them when you tighten it back up you haven't sucked in any air... i.e. gravity bleed. be a good thing to do at oil changes... or any other time you have the wheels off. if you're in the rust belt doesn't matter what grade bleeder you get they will rust and seize in place... if not the bleeder doesn't brake then you might pull the threads on the caliper.... if you do you use heat be frugal with it and be sure to flush out any brake fluid in the caliper and up the line... heat and moisture do not mix well with brake fluid

33Gasser

I realize that this is an old thread but I just bled the brakes on my '91 Cherokee last night and maybe my experience will help someone else.
First off the wrench size for the rear bleeder bolt is 7mm. I was unable to find a 7mm flare nut wrench so I used a 7mm, 6-point socket just to brake them loose then just gravity bled them. I had to use the pedal to blow some crud out of the left bleeder screw then it drained normally.
Also the 1/4" bleeder hose is too big and will not work on these screws.

DFlintstone

Glad you got'r Gasser. (and do add some rice or corn tortillas to those beans, may well help).

For this thread...been doing this allot of years, and sometimes nothing but a vice-grip brand vice grips is going to get it. Large if they will fit, or more likely the medium, and sometimes the small. Jiggle them as you clamp and get it a little tighter than you think you can, then a firm, "dedicated" shove, usually will get the worst I've seen. On my own rig, I may well re-use the mangled thing.