on board air compressor from your a/c compressor
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Punxsutawney Pennsylvania
Posts: 831
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Renix 4.0 I6
on board air compressor from your a/c compressor
did anyone convert theirs into one.. if so how much were all the parts how hard was it to do and did you do alot of custom fabricating on things like braces and the air tank.. was it worth it or is it easier to just go buy a good air compressor that hooks to your battery??? pics would be cool too.. thanks
#3
CF Veteran
Here's a write up that was done, just with out the tank.. on the very cheap..
http://www.adv4x4online.com/forum/index.php?topic=765.0
http://www.adv4x4online.com/forum/index.php?topic=765.0
#4
Here's a write up that was done, just with out the tank.. on the very cheap..
http://www.adv4x4online.com/forum/index.php?topic=765.0
http://www.adv4x4online.com/forum/index.php?topic=765.0
I did mine for less than $100.
#7
done many setups using AC...and yes, despite 'common knowledge' the swash plate compressor in the Cherokees can be converted.
a) you need to make 2 modifications, to make the compressor survive. 1) take of the top plate, and plug the vent that runs from the compression head, back into the drive body, 2) fit some sort of a fill/vent assembly to the top of the compressor. I used a grub screw to seal the passage, and a hydraulic system vent for the cap. put some compressor oil in, adn its good to go. ( IIRC, its about 100-110 ccs of oil)
b) it'll need some sort of pressure control to turn the AC clutch on/off...I used a conventional air compressor control switch, available at most hardware stores for under $25.
an air tank makes the system more durable / less twitchy, but isnt strictly necesary. if you go tankless, use the largest air manifold you can fit, and the pressure switch will work properly.(ie: the more air capacity in the manifold, lines, etc, the less the compressor will flick bwteen on & off) I took an old, (split) air line, and ran a length each way from the air manifold to a quick coupler mounted behind each bumper. quick hint: PEX plumbing crimp fittings are perfect to seal 1/2" OD flexible air line to barbed fittings..no leaks, and no screw clamps to come loose.
a) you need to make 2 modifications, to make the compressor survive. 1) take of the top plate, and plug the vent that runs from the compression head, back into the drive body, 2) fit some sort of a fill/vent assembly to the top of the compressor. I used a grub screw to seal the passage, and a hydraulic system vent for the cap. put some compressor oil in, adn its good to go. ( IIRC, its about 100-110 ccs of oil)
b) it'll need some sort of pressure control to turn the AC clutch on/off...I used a conventional air compressor control switch, available at most hardware stores for under $25.
an air tank makes the system more durable / less twitchy, but isnt strictly necesary. if you go tankless, use the largest air manifold you can fit, and the pressure switch will work properly.(ie: the more air capacity in the manifold, lines, etc, the less the compressor will flick bwteen on & off) I took an old, (split) air line, and ran a length each way from the air manifold to a quick coupler mounted behind each bumper. quick hint: PEX plumbing crimp fittings are perfect to seal 1/2" OD flexible air line to barbed fittings..no leaks, and no screw clamps to come loose.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
BlvdKreeper
Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go here
8
09-08-2015 04:03 PM
shotseven
Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go here
0
09-06-2015 03:06 PM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)