thorguy57

Well I got done putting my Jeep back together. Changed the water pump, timing chain, headgasket ect ect. Well after messing with it for an hour and still having it over heat and not being able to bleed it I decided &uck it. So I pulled out the termostat, put the housing back and filled it up that way. I can't beleive I messed with that stupid thing trying to bleed it for over an hour. 15 minutes and it was completely bled and not overheating at all. It actually runs about 190. From now on thats the only way I am going to fill it up when I completely drain the system. So much easier.

djb383

Fill it with coolant, leave the rad cap off, start it and let it idle. Keep the coolant level full in the neck of the rad while idling. When coolant starts to overflow, put the rad cap back on. Check coolant in overflow bottle for proper level.

thorguy57

Thats what I did during that hour. For some reason it did not want to bleed. I have done that with my previous Cherokees and never had a problem but this one would not take it.

djb383

That does seem strange.

xj90LG

I have changed the thermostat, water pump, reservoir bottle, reservoir cap, radiator and the damn thing is still over heating. Ive bleed the system also with the cap off. IDK what else to do. Was thinking about taking off the freeze caps from the block and completely flushing out the system. Someone told me that they make some stuff that u add to the system and run it until hot and then drain and it gets all the crap out and unplugs it. It seems to run find for the first 15 minutes at about 180-190 then jumps to 210 and starts to over heat. Any Advice? frustrated...

Jeramykt

Just check to make sure you did not mix up the two small hoses coming out of the water outlet and the pump, Had that problem yesterday and sounds like you might be looking at the same thing

Brando26

t-stat upside down?

xj90LG

What do u mean upside down? Spring goes to the inside. I took it out today in 15 degree weather over heated let it cool off. Relieved the pressure it bulrped twice. Put cap back on and the damn thing ran at normal temp. Took it to the sand hill for 30 mins. Never over heated then got on road to head home and started to heat up. Idk? My thoughts it that there is crap inside the motor somewhere that keeps maybe blocking the flow an then getting pushed threw and it normal. What's the easiest way to just flush the whole system? Anything I should use? Never took hoses off btw, so they can't be backward. Also the line from t-stat to radiator builds up pressure so I know it's working.

89Limited

mine overheated 2 weeks ago. Ended up splitting the upper rad hose. When I changed my thermostat I drilled 2 holes on the outside lip for air to burp. Filled it with coolant and haven't had a problem with it.

45shutr

That would have to be a whole lot of crud floating around in there. It sounds like you could possibly have a cracked head, considering that the rest of the cooling system has been installed correctly and your fans are working properly. As one of the previous posters said, do you have your upper and lower radiator hoses going to the right places? The spring on the thermostat should be facing in towards the block. Who knows, maybe you got a bad thermostat and need to check it for function in a pan of hot water. But generally with a cracked head or internaly ruptured head gasket, the car will want to overheat after a hard run, like when traveling on surface streets after getting off the freeway. Or in your case, driving on surface streets after traveling in deep sand.

xj90LG

Well HELL. would the motor run different with a cracked head. It starts and runs find. I am going drill the two holes in the thermostat, like I have read. I replaced the thermostat twice the first new one was a defect and the second one seems to work. What is the best way to burp the system once i reinstall the thermostat. up a hill or down a hill? If this does not work i am jut gonna part the damn thing out. haha.

45shutr

No, the car wouldn't run different with a cracked head, of course it all depends where it's cracked. Ran mine with a cracked head about 35,000 miles, ran like a champ, couldn't have told the difference except it was going through a lot of coolant. Then it completly let lose one day and I had a considerable amount of intermix in the block. Is your car using an abnormal amount of coolant, that can be an indicator. Drilling the thermostat is not going to keep the car from overheating if there is an underlying issue such as a cracked head or malfunctioning cooling system, but it is a good idea to drill it just in case the thermostat fails. Your fan (or fans if you have two) are coming on right?

tiwvr1

When it gets that hot shut it off, get out and see if the upper and lower rad hose feels about equal. If its not, then it is another bad t stat, or water pump

Quick story, my friend did head gaskets, tstat, rad, and water pump on his 88 chevy. STILL had a overheat issue, he chased it for over a week. End up his NEW (not remaned) waterpump was some how bad. I think the prop blades were to far from the housing or something. He got another water pump and problem was solved.

djb383

I'm still puzzled about the overheat......the instant the water pump turns, coolant is circulating out of the head and back into the block via the water passage that is not covered by the closed t-stat (the opening beside the t-stat). Of coarse this presumes the rad was filled to the top before engine start up and coolant level was maintained at the top while the engine idles and warms up and t-stat opens at it's designed temp. Even a closed t-stat does not seal water/air tight.

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=...w=1276&bih=576

ricenbeans04