Best Coil Springs with Dorman 929-301 Leafs?
#1
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Thread Starter
Best Coil Springs with Dorman 929-301 Leafs?
My baby is taking a nose dive, ok, nose dive may be a slight exaggeration. But the rear end with new Dorman 929-301 leaf springs is now sitting higher than the front end on the original coil springs.
I was considering the Old Man Emu 2930 coil springs but I don't want to end up with a front end higher than the rear.
What coils have you guys partnered with the Dorman 929-301 leafs for a level ride? Thanks!
I was considering the Old Man Emu 2930 coil springs but I don't want to end up with a front end higher than the rear.
What coils have you guys partnered with the Dorman 929-301 leafs for a level ride? Thanks!
#2
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Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Connecticut
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 I6
I'm sure someone with real experience will chime in. Until then the second reviewer with the black xj said he used Dorman 929-301's
#4
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I'm sure someone with real experience will chime in. Until then the second reviewer with the black xj said he used Dorman 929-301's
#5
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
Moog coils as posted. Some put in 3/4inch spacers. You will be sightly higher in the rear without them. I did not put them in on 2 Jeeps and was happy with the front and rear ride height after everything settled out.
#7
Junior Member
Didn't use Dorman leafs, went with Crown, so not much help. But for reference, here is the Upcountry pack from Kolak, with new leafs in rear and coils in front, 1" over stock all around.
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Last edited by 3Dog; 02-15-2019 at 07:37 PM.
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#8
CF Veteran
I'm in a similar situation having just put in Crown leafs, but my front is only about 1/2 inch lower so I may just go with spacers if the leaf springs don't settle.
What are the current measurements front and back (center of wheel to fender)?
What are the current measurements front and back (center of wheel to fender)?
#9
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Thread Starter
#11
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Thread Starter
Thanks! Different websites list different lift heights for the OME 2930 springs, otherwise I would jump on them.
Last edited by Elivnitup; 02-15-2019 at 08:42 AM. Reason: Because
#12
Senior Member
I ordered HD front springs for my plow Jeep from NAPA, maybe 10 years ago. They really weren't any more $$ than online (no shipping), ...I dunno, maybe $5-$6 difference ...if that. I wanted local support and see them in person too in case I didn't like them.
I can't say if it gave it any lift b/c I had a broken spring before so couldn't compare height. I would say No b/c it sits just 'right' with a little rear height w/o the plow -- just the 'right stance' and the rear springs are 1987 original. The differences between the two were more coils and thicker wire. The new coils are noticeably progressive ...more wire coils on the end and spaced out a little further in the center. Surprisingly it doesn't ride rough at all during normal driving. It's not even rough or 'firm' riding. But it's not 'soft' either. With the snow plow on the front, it pulls down a little when raised, but not very much. And certainly never bottoms out even when approaching the bump of a bridge or rough road (with plow up). That's what happened to the original springs, they broke on the previous owner from bottoming out. Even broke off the rubber bumpers! Note: I also have a much heavier 7' 6" Meyer plow and even that doesn't pull the front down all that much.
When I installed the HD front springs, I also installed front air shocks too thinking I would need them to assist the springs. Then I only needed to put in only a slight amount of air. Eventually I got rid of the air shocks and just run regular shocks now. The air shocks weren't needed and like I say, it hardly pulls down the front end. My rear springs are stock, fairly rusty (planning on replacing) and I suspect pretty weak. But right now it has a good stance just sitting there. About right.
If you don't like the stance of your rig, rather than use funky aftermarket band-aid 'tricks', another option might be to take it to a spring shop and have the leaf springs re-arched. You wouldn't think so, but they can take them off (zip,zip, zip) in like minutes, disassemble the leaves and re-arch them on their machine 'flatter' (or more arch for other rigs). They do this stuff all the time on heavy-duty trucks and semi's, so handling small Jeep springs is like a toy to them. You'll be surprised how quick they can have them off, re-arch and reinstalled on your vehicle. I bought springs for a 60's classic car years ago that were *Way* too arched. It was like they were for another vehicle! Holy crap, had the stance of a 1970's high-school car, the ***-end was up in the clouds! I was so upset. It was too expensive to return and I wanted to attend an upcoming car show, so I had them re-arched and it was quick, and I think it was like $50 ..$75? Under a hundred. Plus, they did all the work and I got just the 'stance' I was looking for. It was one of the easiest 'problem-cures' I had over the years ever got resolved so smoothly. And if you didn't like the stance after they had them installed, they can just pop them off and give them a little more 'arch' or 'de-arch'. Anyway, it's an idea to keep in your back pocket. My advice is to go during the part of the day when they aren't very busy so they aren't rushed and can take their time to get your vehicle 'right'. Choose a shop that'll let you stand there where the guys are working (if you can).
Frankenplow:
I can't say if it gave it any lift b/c I had a broken spring before so couldn't compare height. I would say No b/c it sits just 'right' with a little rear height w/o the plow -- just the 'right stance' and the rear springs are 1987 original. The differences between the two were more coils and thicker wire. The new coils are noticeably progressive ...more wire coils on the end and spaced out a little further in the center. Surprisingly it doesn't ride rough at all during normal driving. It's not even rough or 'firm' riding. But it's not 'soft' either. With the snow plow on the front, it pulls down a little when raised, but not very much. And certainly never bottoms out even when approaching the bump of a bridge or rough road (with plow up). That's what happened to the original springs, they broke on the previous owner from bottoming out. Even broke off the rubber bumpers! Note: I also have a much heavier 7' 6" Meyer plow and even that doesn't pull the front down all that much.
When I installed the HD front springs, I also installed front air shocks too thinking I would need them to assist the springs. Then I only needed to put in only a slight amount of air. Eventually I got rid of the air shocks and just run regular shocks now. The air shocks weren't needed and like I say, it hardly pulls down the front end. My rear springs are stock, fairly rusty (planning on replacing) and I suspect pretty weak. But right now it has a good stance just sitting there. About right.
If you don't like the stance of your rig, rather than use funky aftermarket band-aid 'tricks', another option might be to take it to a spring shop and have the leaf springs re-arched. You wouldn't think so, but they can take them off (zip,zip, zip) in like minutes, disassemble the leaves and re-arch them on their machine 'flatter' (or more arch for other rigs). They do this stuff all the time on heavy-duty trucks and semi's, so handling small Jeep springs is like a toy to them. You'll be surprised how quick they can have them off, re-arch and reinstalled on your vehicle. I bought springs for a 60's classic car years ago that were *Way* too arched. It was like they were for another vehicle! Holy crap, had the stance of a 1970's high-school car, the ***-end was up in the clouds! I was so upset. It was too expensive to return and I wanted to attend an upcoming car show, so I had them re-arched and it was quick, and I think it was like $50 ..$75? Under a hundred. Plus, they did all the work and I got just the 'stance' I was looking for. It was one of the easiest 'problem-cures' I had over the years ever got resolved so smoothly. And if you didn't like the stance after they had them installed, they can just pop them off and give them a little more 'arch' or 'de-arch'. Anyway, it's an idea to keep in your back pocket. My advice is to go during the part of the day when they aren't very busy so they aren't rushed and can take their time to get your vehicle 'right'. Choose a shop that'll let you stand there where the guys are working (if you can).
Frankenplow:
Last edited by Jeepwalker; 02-15-2019 at 12:20 PM.
#14
Member
Thread Starter
#15
Member
Thread Starter
I ordered HD front springs for my plow Jeep from NAPA, maybe 10 years ago. They really weren't any more $$ than online (no shipping), ...I dunno, maybe $5-$6 difference ...if that. I wanted local support and see them in person too in case I didn't like them.
I can't say if it gave it any lift b/c I had a broken spring before so couldn't compare height. I would say No b/c it sits just 'right' with a little rear height w/o the plow -- just the 'right stance' and the rear springs are 1987 original. The differences between the two were more coils and thicker wire. The new coils are noticeably progressive ...more wire coils on the end and spaced out a little further in the center. Surprisingly it doesn't ride rough at all during normal driving. It's not even rough or 'firm' riding. But it's not 'soft' either. With the snow plow on the front, it pulls down a little when raised, but not very much. And certainly never bottoms out even when approaching the bump of a bridge or rough road (with plow up). That's what happened to the original springs, they broke on the previous owner from bottoming out. Even broke off the rubber bumpers! Note: I also have a much heavier 7' 6" Meyer plow and even that doesn't pull the front down all that much.
When I installed the HD front springs, I also installed front air shocks too thinking I would need them to assist the springs. Then I only needed to put in only a slight amount of air. Eventually I got rid of the air shocks and just run regular shocks now. The air shocks weren't needed and like I say, it hardly pulls down the front end. My rear springs are stock, fairly rusty (planning on replacing) and I suspect pretty weak. But right now it has a good stance just sitting there. About right.
If you don't like the stance of your rig, rather than use funky aftermarket band-aid 'tricks', another option might be to take it to a spring shop and have the leaf springs re-arched. You wouldn't think so, but they can take them off (zip,zip, zip) in like minutes, disassemble the leaves and re-arch them on their machine 'flatter' (or more arch for other rigs). They do this stuff all the time on heavy-duty trucks and semi's, so handling small Jeep springs is like a toy to them. You'll be surprised how quick they can have them off, re-arch and reinstalled on your vehicle. I bought springs for a 60's classic car years ago that were *Way* too arched. It was like they were for another vehicle! Holy crap, had the stance of a 1970's high-school car, the ***-end was up in the clouds! I was so upset. It was too expensive to return and I wanted to attend an upcoming car show, so I had them re-arched and it was quick, and I think it was like $50 ..$75? Under a hundred. Plus, they did all the work and I got just the 'stance' I was looking for. It was one of the easiest 'problem-cures' I had over the years ever got resolved so smoothly. And if you didn't like the stance after they had them installed, they can just pop them off and give them a little more 'arch' or 'de-arch'. Anyway, it's an idea to keep in your back pocket. My advice is to go during the part of the day when they aren't very busy so they aren't rushed and can take their time to get your vehicle 'right'. Choose a shop that'll let you stand there where the guys are working (if you can).
Frankenplow:
I can't say if it gave it any lift b/c I had a broken spring before so couldn't compare height. I would say No b/c it sits just 'right' with a little rear height w/o the plow -- just the 'right stance' and the rear springs are 1987 original. The differences between the two were more coils and thicker wire. The new coils are noticeably progressive ...more wire coils on the end and spaced out a little further in the center. Surprisingly it doesn't ride rough at all during normal driving. It's not even rough or 'firm' riding. But it's not 'soft' either. With the snow plow on the front, it pulls down a little when raised, but not very much. And certainly never bottoms out even when approaching the bump of a bridge or rough road (with plow up). That's what happened to the original springs, they broke on the previous owner from bottoming out. Even broke off the rubber bumpers! Note: I also have a much heavier 7' 6" Meyer plow and even that doesn't pull the front down all that much.
When I installed the HD front springs, I also installed front air shocks too thinking I would need them to assist the springs. Then I only needed to put in only a slight amount of air. Eventually I got rid of the air shocks and just run regular shocks now. The air shocks weren't needed and like I say, it hardly pulls down the front end. My rear springs are stock, fairly rusty (planning on replacing) and I suspect pretty weak. But right now it has a good stance just sitting there. About right.
If you don't like the stance of your rig, rather than use funky aftermarket band-aid 'tricks', another option might be to take it to a spring shop and have the leaf springs re-arched. You wouldn't think so, but they can take them off (zip,zip, zip) in like minutes, disassemble the leaves and re-arch them on their machine 'flatter' (or more arch for other rigs). They do this stuff all the time on heavy-duty trucks and semi's, so handling small Jeep springs is like a toy to them. You'll be surprised how quick they can have them off, re-arch and reinstalled on your vehicle. I bought springs for a 60's classic car years ago that were *Way* too arched. It was like they were for another vehicle! Holy crap, had the stance of a 1970's high-school car, the ***-end was up in the clouds! I was so upset. It was too expensive to return and I wanted to attend an upcoming car show, so I had them re-arched and it was quick, and I think it was like $50 ..$75? Under a hundred. Plus, they did all the work and I got just the 'stance' I was looking for. It was one of the easiest 'problem-cures' I had over the years ever got resolved so smoothly. And if you didn't like the stance after they had them installed, they can just pop them off and give them a little more 'arch' or 'de-arch'. Anyway, it's an idea to keep in your back pocket. My advice is to go during the part of the day when they aren't very busy so they aren't rushed and can take their time to get your vehicle 'right'. Choose a shop that'll let you stand there where the guys are working (if you can).
Frankenplow: