Battery Relocation
#1
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Engine: 4.0 L
Battery Relocation
Well I have begun the process of getting things started to getting my jeep where I want it to be. The first on the list of things to do was to address intake and battery situation. I am rerouting my intake to the opposite side of the engine as the air is much cooler when it is not around the exhaust manifold. The new air box will be where the battery is currently located. Another change is that I am moving the battery to the inside of my jeep behind the rear seat. Eventually I am going to be running a dual battery setup with a 200+ amp alternator. I don't want to take the chance of not having power for my winch or radio equipment(on its way) and not to be confused with stereo equipment. Im not dropping a system in here. My luck it would come flying into my head while i offroading. anywho back to my post.... Has anybody relocated there battery to the inside of there vehicle. I had a BMW 525I and the battery was underneath the back seat never once had an issue with corrosion or any electrical problems. I figure keeping it out of the engine bay reduces and issues from the weather or water. I am also upgrading to 2G wire. A far cry larger than the 8G (I think) Factory wire. Any input guys?
I am building a rack to hold the batteries, tow hooks, tow straps etc....in the back inside right behind the rear seat.
I am building a rack to hold the batteries, tow hooks, tow straps etc....in the back inside right behind the rear seat.
#2
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Year: 1996
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only thing is gauge of wires when relocating. i watched a guy melt his battery and wires in a suzuki w/ the battery under the dash on a buggy. while running the winch it melted.
the longer distance equals more resistance, more resistance equals more heat. don't skimp on the gauge.
the longer distance equals more resistance, more resistance equals more heat. don't skimp on the gauge.
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: AMC242
Bear in mind that a winch is good for 400A - easy.
The closer you can keep the battery to the winch, the happier (and stronger) your winch will be, and the cooler your wires will run. Running current through a wire generates heat, and too much heat can generate an electrical fire (which royally sucks. Always carry an A-B-C-type fire extinguisher. A covers flammable solids, B covers flammable liquids, and C covers electrical (you can get Class D fire extinguishers - for flammable metals - but you don't have much of those in a production or modified off-road vehicle. Class D would be for things like pure sodium or magnesium...)
Also, if you're going to go through the firewall with any sort of high-current lead, you're going to want that junction to be as solid as possible. That's why I have "pass-through" distribution posts - I'm not about to run a high-current wire through the firewall. Instead, I run it to the distribution post, the post is bolted to the firewall (it's certainly not going to go anywhere...) and there is another lead that starts on the other side of the firewall. That way I have the conductor going through the firewall fixed as rigidly as possible (which helps to prevent chafe-through and shorting out. Electrical fire, once again...)
The closer you can keep the battery to the winch, the happier (and stronger) your winch will be, and the cooler your wires will run. Running current through a wire generates heat, and too much heat can generate an electrical fire (which royally sucks. Always carry an A-B-C-type fire extinguisher. A covers flammable solids, B covers flammable liquids, and C covers electrical (you can get Class D fire extinguishers - for flammable metals - but you don't have much of those in a production or modified off-road vehicle. Class D would be for things like pure sodium or magnesium...)
Also, if you're going to go through the firewall with any sort of high-current lead, you're going to want that junction to be as solid as possible. That's why I have "pass-through" distribution posts - I'm not about to run a high-current wire through the firewall. Instead, I run it to the distribution post, the post is bolted to the firewall (it's certainly not going to go anywhere...) and there is another lead that starts on the other side of the firewall. That way I have the conductor going through the firewall fixed as rigidly as possible (which helps to prevent chafe-through and shorting out. Electrical fire, once again...)
#6
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I thought about a snorkel but I am not planning to off road anywhere I will need one. The purpose of this build is for my eventual move to Maine. I want a rig that can get me around with no issues, and can get out of a jam in the snow. As far as a snorkel I do not plan on one. I am also going to be running a dual battery setup and want to mount the batteries side by side.
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Year: 1999
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Well if you plan to move to Maine your going to need to reconsider moving your battery to the passenger compartment. Your xj will not legally pass inspection with the battery not factory mounted in the passenger compartment. http://www.maine.gov/dps/msp/license...nspection.html There is a great Maine state inspection laws pdf. That I find really helpful in modding my xj.
Chapter 1 Section 170 page 8 section 5 sub section A. Reject vehicle if automotive batteries are installed in the passenger
compartment, other than those originally installed by the
manufacturer
Chapter 1 Section 170 page 8 section 5 sub section A. Reject vehicle if automotive batteries are installed in the passenger
compartment, other than those originally installed by the
manufacturer
Last edited by LongHornCherokeeMan; 04-06-2009 at 07:03 AM.
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Not to endorse any particular brand, but unless you use a sealed battery box go with a spill-proof type non-vented battery. Then should a mishap occur there's no danger of battery acid spillage inside the vehicle. JMO
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Im going to me running dual Optima yellow tops. I think that should suffice just fine. unless anybody out there can inform that one and a 200 amp alternator should be fine. In my last jeep i fried two batteries with my winch and do not want to go through that again. Plus I am going to have a cb radio, A VHF Radio, Scanner, Nav system, Perimeter lighting and flood lighting as well as a host of other need electronics. I just want to have reliable power when I need it.
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Year: 1988
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I thought about a snorkel but I am not planning to off road anywhere I will need one. The purpose of this build is for my eventual move to Maine. I want a rig that can get me around with no issues, and can get out of a jam in the snow. As far as a snorkel I do not plan on one. I am also going to be running a dual battery setup and want to mount the batteries side by side.
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I know this is a old post but did not want to start a new one since this one already existed. I am working on putting a list together for when I find a Cherokee at the right price. I was wanting to run dual batteries but I do want to mount both of them in the back of the truck.
The reason for this is I am going to pull the I6 and drop a 350 in. and from what I am reading and seeing is thats going to make the engine bay really tight so the more space I make in there the better.
Any more feed back on this or a link to something more in-depth?
The reason for this is I am going to pull the I6 and drop a 350 in. and from what I am reading and seeing is thats going to make the engine bay really tight so the more space I make in there the better.
Any more feed back on this or a link to something more in-depth?
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