Battery has power, but when I turn the key nothing happens...
10-17-2012, 10:29 PM
#76
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Bimmer, we have a place pretty handy on our starter relay. Darned if I don't remember if it's the upper or lower of the two parallel green's there. I am sure sure if you try one and it doesn't work, you can try the other. Yours on the other hand I think has a "SPDT" relay, which looks like the rest of those relays. On yours, there is also a wire that goes directly to the starter solenoid, same as "ours", just I have no clew where it might be. (which, when energized, pulls the plunger to connect the main power to the starter). Anyway, keep in mind, a 90 Renix is different than a 91 OBDI. Yea, have the ignition on. Since there is always power to the big post on the starter, anything that connects that to the little wire will make it go. Plumbing pipe..peace pipe......just remember it will also start in drive, and run you over if you do it just right!
10-18-2012, 12:42 AM
#77
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Well, loose doesn't get it. Over the years at one point or another I've grabbed about anything to make it fit tight. IIRC I never dried a "freedom fry" 
. Usually a twig or a folded part if a "beverage" can can get you home.
Really do do much with a Renix jeep. (or anything) a $5 digital meter is a pretty good investment. (Harbor Fright).
Agreeing with Freedgr, if there is an issue with power available, (likely?), the headlights will not be bright while you are asking it to start. Another thing without a meeter you can get a sense of running voltage by the speed of the blinker.
Anyway if you have a battery that won't hold a charge, loose connections, and no meter...cool that it starts at all!
. Usually a twig or a folded part if a "beverage" can can get you home. Really do do much with a Renix jeep. (or anything) a $5 digital meter is a pretty good investment. (Harbor Fright).
Agreeing with Freedgr, if there is an issue with power available, (likely?), the headlights will not be bright while you are asking it to start. Another thing without a meeter you can get a sense of running voltage by the speed of the blinker.
Anyway if you have a battery that won't hold a charge, loose connections, and no meter...cool that it starts at all!
So, the battery holds a charge but the Neg clamp was way loose due to a crack. Got a new clamp on now, tight and nice!
Though, terminals are not shining, but clean.
The Jeep has started as usual for 2 days now. So,
Waiting for my new NSS to install that, then the girl should be a-ok!
10-18-2012, 12:46 AM
#78
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Replaced my starter, and after a week it wouldn't start. Then I went on the NSS which I broke...
Never got the bypass to work as it should, even though the NSS is bypassed, I have reverse lights and will only start in P and N. Don't understand why.
Instead it seems like my shifting is off in D and 3rd gear. It jumps 1st gear and is really slow. So right now I drive manually
10-18-2012, 12:49 AM
#79
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Bimmer, we have a place pretty handy on our starter relay. Darned if I don't remember if it's the upper or lower of the two parallel green's there. I am sure sure if you try one and it doesn't work, you can try the other. Yours on the other hand I think has a "SPDT" relay, which looks like the rest of those relays. On yours, there is also a wire that goes directly to the starter solenoid, same as "ours", just I have no clew where it might be. (which, when energized, pulls the plunger to connect the main power to the starter). Anyway, keep in mind, a 90 Renix is different than a 91 OBDI. Yea, have the ignition on. Since there is always power to the big post on the starter, anything that connects that to the little wire will make it go. Plumbing pipe..peace pipe......just remember it will also start in drive, and run you over if you do it just right!
But what can have happened with my Bypass of the NSS? It will only start in P and N. And I have reverse lights.
It just hurts my mechanic feelings when I can't even get a simple bypass to work properly...
10-18-2012, 11:31 AM
#81
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i can't remember how i bypassed mine, but i still have reverse lights, but i can start it in any gear, including drive and reverse... and yes, it did catch me off guard once...
10-18-2012, 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by caged
i can't remember how i bypassed mine, but i still have reverse lights, but i can start it in any gear, including drive and reverse... and yes, it did catch me off guard once...
Well the Jeep has started fine for 2 days now or something. See if the weekend brings any surprises...
10-18-2012, 11:25 PM
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Two important scales on your meter are DC voltage, (use the 20 scale for the car) Resistance in "ohms" is the other that's handy to check for bad connections, and sensors. Since you are looking for an Ohm or less, say from the neg. battery post to the engine, body, or a sensor ground you would use your lowest scale, probably 2, or 200. The CTS, and IAC sensor resistance goes higher, so you might use the 2000 scale, (2K).
Btw. 12.2, 12-7 are fine voltages to see just sitting...(the lower, 12.2 with things on), then running you want to see 14, ish, (less than 14.8). Mine idles at 14.25 with the headlights and blower on high. That, after it's been run....like normal.
If that bypass really bothers you, F1addict knows that voodoo pretty well IIRC.
10-19-2012, 12:54 AM
#84
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I don't know quite what to say. You fixed it! (don't be too hurt). I sing a little sometimes, but never yoodle. I'm OK with that!
Two important scales on your meter are DC voltage, (use the 20 scale for the car) Resistance in "ohms" is the other that's handy to check for bad connections, and sensors. Since you are looking for an Ohm or less, say from the neg. battery post to the engine, body, or a sensor ground you would use your lowest scale, probably 2, or 200. The CTS, and IAC sensor resistance goes higher, so you might use the 2000 scale, (2K).
Btw. 12.2, 12-7 are fine voltages to see just sitting...(the lower, 12.2 with things on), then running you want to see 14, ish, (less than 14.8). Mine idles at 14.25 with the headlights and blower on high. That, after it's been run....like normal.
If that bypass really bothers you, F1addict knows that voodoo pretty well IIRC.
Two important scales on your meter are DC voltage, (use the 20 scale for the car) Resistance in "ohms" is the other that's handy to check for bad connections, and sensors. Since you are looking for an Ohm or less, say from the neg. battery post to the engine, body, or a sensor ground you would use your lowest scale, probably 2, or 200. The CTS, and IAC sensor resistance goes higher, so you might use the 2000 scale, (2K).
Btw. 12.2, 12-7 are fine voltages to see just sitting...(the lower, 12.2 with things on), then running you want to see 14, ish, (less than 14.8). Mine idles at 14.25 with the headlights and blower on high. That, after it's been run....like normal.
If that bypass really bothers you, F1addict knows that voodoo pretty well IIRC.
Thanks for explaining about the meter, not sure it's gonna work with my brain though. I'm an accountant and computer person, but this simple electricity stuff just flies over my head for some reason, I cannot grasp it!
And like you said, it's working so why bother?!
Waiting for my new NSS to install and then I have to figure out the irregular shifting...
10-20-2012, 07:38 AM
#85
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Well think I have narrowed my problem down.
This morning it wouldn't crank so I popped the hood, disconnected the Neg battery clamp, put it back on after a minute and the Jeep fired up!
So is it bad/dirty terminals, bad grounds or crappy battery?
This morning it wouldn't crank so I popped the hood, disconnected the Neg battery clamp, put it back on after a minute and the Jeep fired up!
So is it bad/dirty terminals, bad grounds or crappy battery?
10-22-2012, 03:47 AM
#86
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I'm gonna be a pest. To often people miss this:
Battery gasses have a nasty habit of helping a thin, hard crust form on the bat post's and clamps. They can look pretty good, but that micro-thin layer is a surprisingly good insulator. SHINNY! Lead is what you want. I use a pocket knife, (gently), for the insides of the clamps. For the posts I might use one of those post cleaner wire brushes, but still scrape it with a blade. If you have a condition where you have power, (dash lights ect.), then when you hit it power goes out altogether, that's a common result of a layer of oxidization there. Btw, a half *** connection could be expected to get hot during cranking, or while it's trying. Cleaning those is something to do now and then anyway, so it you are having starting problems, you might want to make sure you have bare lead on lead. Might save you some grief.
I USE REGULAR BEARING GREASE ,OK? I CONFESS!! I HAVE FOR DECADES!!!!WORKS GREAT!! INSIDE AND OUT! ALMOST 4000 POSTS...I CONFESS..IT WORKS FINE, NO GASSES GET IN THERE. AND HAND TIGHT, TWIST DOWN HARD.
Battery gasses have a nasty habit of helping a thin, hard crust form on the bat post's and clamps. They can look pretty good, but that micro-thin layer is a surprisingly good insulator. SHINNY! Lead is what you want. I use a pocket knife, (gently), for the insides of the clamps. For the posts I might use one of those post cleaner wire brushes, but still scrape it with a blade. If you have a condition where you have power, (dash lights ect.), then when you hit it power goes out altogether, that's a common result of a layer of oxidization there. Btw, a half *** connection could be expected to get hot during cranking, or while it's trying. Cleaning those is something to do now and then anyway, so it you are having starting problems, you might want to make sure you have bare lead on lead. Might save you some grief.
I USE REGULAR BEARING GREASE ,OK? I CONFESS!! I HAVE FOR DECADES!!!!WORKS GREAT!! INSIDE AND OUT! ALMOST 4000 POSTS...I CONFESS..IT WORKS FINE, NO GASSES GET IN THERE. AND HAND TIGHT, TWIST DOWN HARD.
Last edited by DFlintstone; 10-22-2012 at 03:50 AM.
10-23-2012, 08:29 AM
#88
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Sorry DFlintstone, I really need to listen to you and clean the terminals real good. Going to add a ground cable to ser what happens.
And install my new NSS!
This week.....
And install my new NSS!
This week.....
10-24-2012, 01:54 PM
#89
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Update:
Kind of embarrassing, found out why my bypass didn't work, I bypassed the WRONG connector!
Replaced the NSS tonight, went well... Except I broke the old one into pieces before I got it of the shaft. Oh well, it was supposed to come of anyways.
Noticed now that I need some advice on adjusting the NSS. The Jeep starts only in P not in N. And I do have reverse lights.
Noticed also that the shifter moved a bit harder than before, so I need to adjust something but I don't know how...
Going to clean the terminals more also, and addind another ground. Just didn't have time tonight and tomorrow Im going on a business trip. Bah!
Kind of embarrassing, found out why my bypass didn't work, I bypassed the WRONG connector!
Replaced the NSS tonight, went well... Except I broke the old one into pieces before I got it of the shaft. Oh well, it was supposed to come of anyways.
Noticed now that I need some advice on adjusting the NSS. The Jeep starts only in P not in N. And I do have reverse lights.
Noticed also that the shifter moved a bit harder than before, so I need to adjust something but I don't know how...
Going to clean the terminals more also, and addind another ground. Just didn't have time tonight and tomorrow Im going on a business trip. Bah!
10-24-2012, 10:31 PM
#90
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Adjustment should be in one of these.
http://www.boyandjeep.com/tech-artic...switch-rebuild
http://go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoNSSrebuild.htm
http://bc4x4.com/tech/2010/jeep-neut...ty-switch-nss/
http://www.boyandjeep.com/tech-artic...switch-rebuild
http://go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoNSSrebuild.htm
http://bc4x4.com/tech/2010/jeep-neut...ty-switch-nss/