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Bangin My Head
I just got an 86 Cherokee with a 2.8l V6. It was running rough as a cobb when I got it so I decided to do a tune up. Replaced plugs, wires, rotor button and distributor cap. After that jeep would not start. Verified fuel then verified I did not have spark.
At this point I decided to just start throwing parts at it. New ignition control module, nothing. Next new ignition coil, nothing. Lastly a new pick-up coil and still no joy. I want to verify if this engine does or does not have a crank position sensor. I am assuming no since I can't seem to find one for sale. Would a bad neutral safety switch allow the vehicle to crank but not produce spark? I have verified voltage going to the coil with the ignition in the on position. Any help will be greatly appreciated as right now I just want to sink it in a lonely swamp. |
Originally Posted by Rald277
(Post 593069)
I just got an 86 Cherokee with a 2.8l V6. It was running rough as a cobb when I got it so I decided to do a tune up. Replaced plugs, wires, rotor button and distributor cap. After that jeep would not start. Verified fuel then verified I did not have spark.
At this point I decided to just start throwing parts at it. New ignition control module, nothing. Next new ignition coil, nothing. Lastly a new pick-up coil and still no joy. I want to verify if this engine does or does not have a crank position sensor. I am assuming no since I can't seem to find one for sale. Would a bad neutral safety switch allow the vehicle to crank but not produce spark? I have verified voltage going to the coil with the ignition in the on position. Any help will be greatly appreciated as right now I just want to sink it in a lonely swamp. Well I can give you some pretty good advice on this since I've dealt with the same problems with the same engine for the past three years. The best advice anyone can give you on this is... SELL IT! RUN FAR FAR AWAY! That engine will nickle and dime you to death and still run like a lawn mower afterward. Over the past three years I have put enough money into mine that I could've bought two new ones. Your best bet is to sell it for what you can and find a post 96 with a 4.0 high output. Or you could sink it in a swamp lol. If you are determined to try to make it run I'll help you out as much as possible. And no, a neutral safety switch wouldn't allow it to crank at all. I'll get back to you on the crank position sensor. Good Luck:D |
Use a test lite at the neg terminal on the coil, now crank the engine over and see if the lite flashes, stays on solid, or does not come on at all. If it flashes, you're ok, no light or stays lit means it is a module problem. Also check the PCM ground. The advise above is good advise as harsh as it sounds.
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it cant be a neutral safety switch. the only thing that would happen would be no starting/ cranking at all. unless someone before you bought the xj bypassed the neutral safety switch it shouldnt crank if you have a bad neutral switch. with the coils, the only problem that would be would be spark plugs, plug wires, and crank position. i would keep looking, just cause you cant find one doesnt mean ur jeep doesnt have one. i agree with maddxj85, swap ur 2.8 with a 4.0. the 4.0 is so much better.
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Right now I can't afford a motor swap and after a good nights sleep I am leaning away from the whole swamp plan. So I guess the big remaining question is about the CPS. Do it or don't it. I will look harder at some supply stores for this.
Mean while keep the advice comming. Thanks Added: This link is to the type coil on my jeep. Detailed testing instructions for this coil would help me alot. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...er=158501_0_0_ |
Still looking for a little help here.
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Stupid question only because I've done it myself.
You verified that you actually installed the rotor and that it is making a connection to the cap? |
if it ran before the tune up then it should run now. personnally, i would put the old cap and rotor back in it and see if it will start. there are minor differences between OEM and OEM equivalent. i ran into this on the wifes car and it made no sense. same issue exactly. after a tune up it would not start, new rotor was just slightly shorter and only noticable with a caliper and was not contacting the inside of the dist cap. every since then i have only used dealer/factory parts. i know its a lot more money but it makes sure its right every time.
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Originally Posted by Throttle Jockey
(Post 595959)
if it ran before the tune up then it should run now. personnally, i would put the old cap and rotor back in it and see if it will start. there are minor differences between OEM and OEM equivalent. i ran into this on the wifes car and it made no sense. same issue exactly. after a tune up it would not start, new rotor was just slightly shorter and only noticable with a caliper and was not contacting the inside of the dist cap. every since then i have only used dealer/factory parts. i know its a lot more money but it makes sure its right every time.
Amen. And to the earlier post about making sure the rotor is actually in there. My A&P brother-in-law taught me years ago that it is hard for an engine NOT to run. You have to literally withdraw spark or fuel to make it STOP. So...if you have fuel supply, diagnose the electrical starting with the easiest thing first: Put the old parts back in there and see if it runs. ALL of the old parts. Then, if it runs, and I believe it will, change ONE PART. Then, if it runs...change ONE MORE. If it runs, change ONE MORE. And so on and so on. Otherwise you'll be leaning back toward the swamp idea in no time at all. |
Hey just thought i'd let you know that there is no CPS on the 2.8 I just checked. Also I'd like to apologize if my earlier post seemed harsh. Didn't intend for it to be I was just trying to save a fellow Jeep owner the agony I went through. By the way, I have a 2.8 with a bunch of brand new parts on it if your interested in anything just let me know and I'll let you know if I have it. Also have a freshly rebuilt trans.
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anyone from this thread still around and hating themselves for keeping the 2.8L? I won't get into details but I'm looking for some current pro-tips for this motor. 1986 base model cherokee with 2.8L. currently no spark but strong crank. until recently the engine was running, and it actually died while running unattended and now has no spark. don't want to hijack this ancient thread, lol, but if anyone is feeling generous and wants to help out this poor fool I'm currently mining the forums and trying to get the old turd running.
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