mdcmn7

guys,

I have been having a thump when I turn for a while now. I put the jeep up and the ball joints are crap. I am in the middle of trying to replace them.

The jeep is up and blocked, wheel, caliper and rotor are off. I got the three retainer bolts out of the carrier and am trying to get the carrier out of the knuckle. I cant seem to get that thing out for the love of god!

Am I missing something? or do I just need to hit it with a bigger BFH

Chuck

DougyFresh

bigger hammer... put the bolts back in and tap on them... work it in and out while spraying your favorite penetrating lube at it...

wow, that didnt sound right...

peep

It's going to take a little more than your regular jelly. Remember the anti seize when you put it all back together. On most vehicles you are usually only doing the next owner a favour, on a Cherokee the use of antiseize, you are helping yourself in the future. You can use the steering for leverage.
You can use a long socket on the inner hub surface or against one of the bolts partially (at least 3 full threads) in, rotate your steering wheel to put pressure on the hub from the inside. Do a search for threads discussing bearing hub removal, I am sure I saw some good pictures on it in the past. A real good spray of the penetrating oil will help, don't get too rammy with your hammer.

BostonIrish

Im pretty sure those are pressed in...I don't think the hammer is gonna cut it..

peep

Perhaps I misunderstood, I thought you were trying to extract the hub carrying the wheel bearing and outer axle assemblies. When it comes time for the ball joints they are definately a press out press in, hammer won't do it.

s14unimog

yeah its a little bit of a but it'll come out with some persuasion. I used a blunt tipped drift and a BFH (as shown below) and some liquid wrench... I honestly can't believe mine came apart without something breaking. Just keep working on it. I hate it for ya.

caged

no those hub units are not pressed in. only bolted on, but they tend to get a little rust welded if they haven't been off in a while.

but do as peep said, leave one of the 12 point bolts in about 3 or 4 threads and with the socket and ratchet still on the bolt, turn the wheel so there is pressure on the ratchet while it is up against the inner knuckle, then just turn the steering wheel with a bit of muscle and you should feel the hub pop off. you may need to alternate between the two lower bolts to "wiggle" the hub off using the steering wheel.
this is a very easy trick to do, i do it all the time and never had a hub that wouldn't come apart.

but you may not have to take that off just to do ball joints. you may be able to get away with leaving it on and just remove the ball joint nuts and knock off the knuckle and pull out the shaft with everything still attached. then just replace the ball joints and tighten the knuckle back on.
i haven't tried it this way, but thinking it may work.

mdcmn7

thanks for all the help, I popped it out with a long socket and the steering wheel

TonyB

For ease of removal/trail side repair.....i've found that a heavy coating of anti-sieze EVERYWHERE(bolts/spindle/anything metal) is great at keeping this situation from happening again.

mdcmn7

I think the biggest problem I have run into with my XJ over the years is rust/seizing. My jeep was a fleet truck for con edison in upstate newyork I guarantee it saw a lot of salt in its lifetime. Now it lives in PA and will still see salt filled winters

pb blaster, breaker bars, locktite, antiseize, are my new best friends

Rikkadog

Just finished doing mine. Do NOT hammer on them. You will mushroom the ball joints and end up chiseling them out. They are press fit in and you will need a ball joint press to replace them. About $50 at Harbor Freight. Another little "gotcha" Do not put the grease fitting in the new ones, just seal up the holes. There is not enough clearance for the axle to turn with the fittings in place. You will have to lube them with a grease needle. And do NOT hammer directly on the 3 torx bolts that hold the hub assy. You will screw up the heads and need to replace themthe

TonyB

You must have some odd diameter ball joints.

I even have the AA kit welded on, and it clears. I mean, it hit a lil' bit around the 3 bolts and the tops of the zerk fitting....but it clearanced itself after a drive around the neighborhood.

Rikkadog

LOL I bet that did great things for the grease fittng! If you notice the original ball joints do not have a grease fitting on the top. Probably why they need replacing so often.
BTW if you are near Northern VA I will sell my ball joint kit cheap Hope I never need it again.

TonyB

It took maybe 1-2mm off the zerk fitting.