HighOnLift

I recently changed out my ball joints and afterwards, noticed some leaking of diff fluid.

I was gentle putting axles back in, but it's coming out of both sides, so my question is, how likely is it that I broke the seals vs them already being bad, and how could I tell?


How delicate are these seals? Would the smallest tap destroy them? How aggressive would one have to be shoving an axle in to break one?

And for future reference, is it necessary to remove diff cover to place the axles back in? I slowly slid the axle in tube, then when it hit the end very gently, I lifted the axle and slowly turned it until it went in. I'm just having a hard time blaming myself, but hey if I earned it then so be it.

PatHenry

Not your fault. They're not heavy duty, but neither are they delicate flowers that the mere tap of an axle end will destroy them.

Just a symptom of the vehicle age or an improper installation by a previous owner.

You do NOT need to remove the diff cover to put the axles back in.

I recently replaced my axle seals (for the first time ever doing this job) with a pair of Spicer seals (maybe $18 for the pair IIRC) and have had no more leaking from my front axle. The replacement is well documented and the pitfalls are well known and accurately described. It was one of the easier fixes IMO.

TrailerTrash

I agree with PayHenry. It is a simple fix. Just getting the axles out is half the job. Just fallow a good picture filled writeup and keep track of every part you take off

HighOnLift

Ok sounds about right. I'm just getting back into taking care of my vehicles after years of neglect... So hopefully I didn't eff up my differential gears. Actually when I did the first ball joint, I had the vehicle lifted slightly higher on one side and after pulling axle I had a small amount of gear oil come out. So at least I wasn't driving around dry. The magnet has some metal on it, but it was all super fine shavings that really couldn't even tell was metal until rubbing it between my fingers. I'm just nervous to open this thing up this week. I always seem to find more issues when doing work. I keep telling my co-workers that I'd swear a shop would be trying to swindle me if they were the one to tell me I need to replace all this and that. At least seeing it for myself allows me to put myself in the shoes of the poor guy who's gotta call a customer up and tell them that $300 job just turned into 1k.

And thinking about it, I topped off the gear oil after doing all this, and not realizing I have the funnel sealed in the plug hole, I for sure filled it slightly higher than plug hole. I let it drain from the hole and then that is when I noticed a significant amount coming out of the axle tubes.

Going to quit driving it until I get those seals in this week. And while there are only a few vids on this (specifically XJ) it didn't look that bad. I mean doing my ball joints was a huge pita but that was 90% me just being an idiot and not knowing what I was doing. I had wheel bearings rusted something fierce, and couldn't get old ball joints out. Just needed to use a screwdriver to hammer between the wheel bearing to get some daylight between those two pieces (extension in axle trick didn't work at all), and applying some heat to those ball joints while under pressure from the press. Long story short, I did the other side in less than 1/4th the time it took me to do the first.

HighOnLift

When you did yours did you use any thread lock on the bearing cap bolts? I watched a video where someone used red locktite on them and I was just thinking wouldn't that be a huge pita if ever needed to remove them?

revolver

just give it a few days, they always leak when you pull the axle shaft for a few days.

HighOnLift

But this is quite a bit more than a leak, by a lot. Also, after replacing my drag link, tie rod and track bar I got an alignment done and of course they also told me the seals are shot.

Seems like a lot to risk when all signs are pointing to bad seals. I also don't mind doing the work just to be on the safe side as I'm sure they are factory and I have 196k on the odometer.

I'm curious if anyone else who had replaced theirs used any thread lock on the bearing cap bolts.

PatHenry

No thread lock on the bearing caps for me. I just torqued them to factory specs.

Red loctite would mean using heat to get them off again.

You can use any D30 reference. I think I followed Stu's off road something or other.

I took cardboard and labeled top and bottom, pass and driver and pushed the bolts through to maintain my bearing cap orientation and that worked well.

PatHenry

Once those seals go they're gone. It's the years of pulling the axles in and out that causes the failure.
Very very common.

It was when I was doing my own ball joints that I noticed my own leak.

A broom handle worked great for me for the removal and install. I used the 36mm axle nut socket to press in the new seals and that worked great.

Canadiantech

I have replaces many of those seals over the years as a tech, it doesn't take much to cause them to give up. when you install the axles take your time and don't rush!

F1Addict

Maybe I missed it, did you say what year your XJ was, HighOnLift? All D30s are not the same and replacing the seals in older ('84-'89) vacuum disco D30s is definitely not a simple fix.

HighOnLift

96 Jeep Cherokee Sport. The classic clear coat comes off the hood and roof model. Amazingly, the paint is still in rather good condition. I'm actually going to somewhat restore the entire thing over time. I say somewhat because I'm not restoring to factory condition. Will have a custom paint job and lift in the end. I'm probably talking 2+ years worth of doing it all myself over time. But before I can even think about cosmetics, need to replace all the broken parts which is a fairly decent list. Steering gear box is on my todo very soon.

DFlintstone

X2 on that. A real pain.

HighOnLift

Does anyone know what the torque settings are for those bearing cap bolts? I'm finding a lot of conflicting info online. Some say use lock tite some do not. I personally would like to avoid lock tite if it's not necessary.

But I'm seeing anywhere from 55lbs to 90lbs.... that is quite a range. I certainly don't want to strip anything.

PatHenry

FSM for 95 (Assuming that the 96, and probably several other years are the same) says 45 ft/lbs.