rollinondonuts

So i am about to start the process of removing my transmision to replace the internal slave cylinder I am basicialy in need of some advice or any bumps i might come across...And specielty tools i may need any steps i should take to make process easier or just any general advice from somone that has been in my postion. I have removed several honda fwd transmissions but never have the plessure of doing a xj. Im in need of a good writeup..Any advice is greatly appciraited and i am forever thankful for.. The slave cylinder complety went out and wont hold ANY pressure so i have no clutch...It is deffeitnly time for replacement.. Anybody recomend detaching the T case or leaving it intact? workspace will be my front yard in the shade of a tree. And btw the xj is an 89 and is 4x4 Sorry for my horrible spelling im just a teen that never finished highschool .Please somone help

84zmyfavorite

You will need a Torx socket for the top two bolts from bellhousing to block. I cant remember the size. Close to 10mm, if I remember right. Tilt the whole engine/transmission/transfercase, put a jack under oil pan with twobyfour or plywood between jack and oil pan to hold engine weight. Undo all shift linkages from transfer case and tranny, all wires,vaccum lines, move exhaust, undo cross member with support under tranny. Remove transmisssion/transfer case as one.

rollinondonuts

Can this be done with the vechile siting on the ground? stock ride height of course. of course driveshafts aswell right? already got rear out and front disconected about to start taclking the linkadge. Same conncept applys with most fwd honda's asfar as susporting the engine from underneath...I was told the engine would stay in place without susport but i doughted that....Where could one aqquire the hex socket? i belive you right on the 10 mm its either that or the 12 ive read in another writeup.. thanks tho..

freegdr

gotta get it up in the air some gonna be a hole lot easier,as for the socket auto parts store,support from wood and jack under oil pan is necessary

rollinondonuts

Ok few more quistions pretty much at the same point today i was yesterday minus linkadge and shifter colum but quistion being exactly how many bellhousing bolts are there? including the 2 torx bolts, also how do you get to the 2 torx bolts..It looks like a hell of a immposible angle..Do you tilt tranny some if it will? or do you go threw cabin where shifter is with a extemly long extension or two? thanks so much guys and i appoligize for my horrible grammer or bad spelling haha

rollinondonuts

Anybody? im about to go buy the torx now

freegdr

floor jack under trans remove crossmember and lower trans get to bolt between floor board and top of trans think theres two other bolt plus starter and need to remove crank shaft sensor driver side top of bell housing indtall jack under motor after lower ing trans just for support

rollinondonuts

thanks guy your a lifesaver now i just gotta find somone i can borrow a floor jack from

freegdr

find a buddy to help also be safe

s14unimog

they're an E12 torx. and ya there are two on the top of the bell housing. I've always dropped everything together. Harbor freight has a great little jack that's non-hydraulic. I was a little weary at first when I used it but it's great and nice not to worry if the hydraulics will bleed down. Watch out and make sure you don't ****** your Crank Position Sensor apart; that puppy is right at $70 to replace. If it's like my 97, the plug is on top of the intake manifold and bolts to the top driverside of the bell housing.

Edit: what freegdr said, lol.

rollinondonuts

thanks for the pics s14unimog ( ive had 2 s13's ) i took the two bolts out holding the crank postion senso and it just slid out but apears the end is torn..What does it go into? it apears theres just a little shaft at the end of it i have it just hanging there but detached from transmission...But holy F*** like usual i tend to mess up everything and ive striped the driver side torx bolt I dont know what to do..Ive cut out a section of the floorboard to allow easy access (grandfathers advice) The car is still on its wheels i have a floor jack with a peice of wood balancing on tranny aswell on cinder block under transfercase Im hoping ill have enough room to just slide it back a foot to gain access to slave cylinder If i can get it detached from block obviously..So anyone have any advice on removing the striped bolt? angle is two tricky for vice grips..And ive never use a bolt extracter but a friend has a set if i need to..The nuts and bolts dirctly on the bottom of the bellhousing do not have to be removed correct? they just hold the "dust" cover on?

TheJerm

IIRC, All the bolts attaching the dust cover to the transmission has to be removed because the dust cover is between the flywheel and engine. Dont forget the little 10mm bolts on the engine side of the dust shield at 10 and 2 o'clock.

Bolt extractors work great, just make sure to pound it on the the bolt good the 1st time. Most people throw out the torx bolts and new ones that are normal hex head. I personally thought it was easiest to lower the rear of the trans/tcase as much as possible and get the torx 1st then get the rest. You are going to have a hell of a time putting it back in if you didnt jack up the vehicle.

Biceps McRipped

I just helped my brother replace his clutch, and i don't know if the engine would've been fine or not, but we lodged a crow bar underneath to hold it just in case. The top two bolts were the biggest problem for us too, but we were lucky to have an air gun and long extensions. That's the hardest part in my opinion, so once you have those out it's smooth sailing.
Have you thought about replacing the clutch while you're in there? JC Whitney has them for under $200. It'd be much easier to do it now than having to do this whole process over again.

BZB92KnappageXJ

I just yanked my tranny and tranfer case today as one unit. Actually really easy job. Make sure you pull the shifter, I couldn't get the tranny out all the way with it still mounted. I bought a clutch set from Advance Auto Parts for $150. They have a good deal going online, save 15% and spend more than $100 and you get a $50 coupon towards your next $100. I thought that was pretty sweet.

rollinondonuts

I figure it wouldent be to bad geitng back in considering im not puting it on the ground ..Unless . Im "plannig" on being able to deatach while suspended and just roll back a foot to gain access to slave cylinder.. Clutch was recently replaced say's the previous owner i have reciept its from last year..We will see when we get in there tho. If it wernt for that i would be replaceing clutch, throwout while in there...Well i have a fairly large hole right above the torx bolt cut in chasis so ima get that puppy out... Deff gonna try to replace those with standerd hex headed bolts... And can anyone give me a point as with the exhuast? mainly the piping running from header to flange thats attached to the mount..Ive detached that flange but there appears to be a small bracket attached to the bellhousing?? Man i cant thank everybody enough id be up shi*s creek without a paddle floating on a tire if it wernt for this place..