AX-15 bellhousing spacer/dust cover, missing bolts
#1
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0L I6
AX-15 bellhousing spacer/dust cover, missing bolts
Question for anyone with AX-15 expertise. I recently had mine rebuilt. Well, today I was poking around in the engine compartment on an unrelated matter (flush heater core) and saw some empty bolt holes. Closer inspection revealed what you see in the attached images; right, left, and bottom.
I considered these missing bolts for a bit and it seems like they aren't strictly required. I'm sure Chrysler put them there for a reason, buuut... this is a company that left no room for an oil filter, and then perma-threaded on the adapter for it. So I don't know. I come here seeking opinions. All the other bolts, the big ones that hold the thing on the motor, appear to be where they should (although I can't see the top of the transmission for obvious reasons).
If this is a holy-s***-don't-drive-that situation, could someone please tell me the proper length and thread pitch bolt to get? I'd appreciate it.
-T.
I considered these missing bolts for a bit and it seems like they aren't strictly required. I'm sure Chrysler put them there for a reason, buuut... this is a company that left no room for an oil filter, and then perma-threaded on the adapter for it. So I don't know. I come here seeking opinions. All the other bolts, the big ones that hold the thing on the motor, appear to be where they should (although I can't see the top of the transmission for obvious reasons).
If this is a holy-s***-don't-drive-that situation, could someone please tell me the proper length and thread pitch bolt to get? I'd appreciate it.
-T.
Last edited by Thernlund; 03-18-2018 at 10:59 PM.
#2
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: I6 4.0L
Are the bolts snapped off?
You definitely can drive it if all the tranny to engine bolts are intact. The P.O. of my 95 had the whole bottom of that plate gone (not sure what was done but spacing is ok for starting and drives/shifts great so.....)
If it drives/shifts without trouble and all the engine to tranny bolts are there, I'd not worry about it until your next clutch job. I'm no expert though.
You definitely can drive it if all the tranny to engine bolts are intact. The P.O. of my 95 had the whole bottom of that plate gone (not sure what was done but spacing is ok for starting and drives/shifts great so.....)
If it drives/shifts without trouble and all the engine to tranny bolts are there, I'd not worry about it until your next clutch job. I'm no expert though.
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: I6 4.0L
It looks like the predominant sizes are:
M12x1.75 50 and 65 lengths
M10x1.25 34 length
From the 94-96 parts catalog (the bell housing should be the same for all AX-15's though):
M12x1.75 50 and 65 lengths
M10x1.25 34 length
From the 94-96 parts catalog (the bell housing should be the same for all AX-15's though):
#7
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Year: 1999
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I'm an idiot. I actually have that parts catalog.
I took a deeper dive on it and figured it out. They're item #1 on index you posted.
Part # 11500986 - Hex Flange head bolt - M8x2.12x16
Really? They've got to be kidding me. Even Grainger and CopperState don't have these. WTF?
F'ing Chrysler.
-T.
I took a deeper dive on it and figured it out. They're item #1 on index you posted.
Part # 11500986 - Hex Flange head bolt - M8x2.12x16
Really? They've got to be kidding me. Even Grainger and CopperState don't have these. WTF?
F'ing Chrysler.
-T.
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#8
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: I6 4.0L
That would explain them being missing if they're hard to find. M8 seems awful small IIRC.. are you sure that's the right one?
Check the hardware store - I was seriously concerned when I was trying to replace the belt tensioner bolt on my 95 and it looked like even the Grainger type stores wouldn't have what I needed, but I went to the larger of the 2 local Ace stores and sure enough they had the exact one I needed - in stainless steel none-the-less!
If they don't have the right one, check if your local parts store or Fastenal/Grainger can order them. You're fine driving around without them for a bit, so don't stress it.
I get the feeling my 95 was driven for like 2 years with the whole lower section of the plate (it almost looks like the PO used the spacer from an automatic..) missing. It was interesting doing the first oil change and realizing I could see the bottom of my fly-wheel...
Check the hardware store - I was seriously concerned when I was trying to replace the belt tensioner bolt on my 95 and it looked like even the Grainger type stores wouldn't have what I needed, but I went to the larger of the 2 local Ace stores and sure enough they had the exact one I needed - in stainless steel none-the-less!
If they don't have the right one, check if your local parts store or Fastenal/Grainger can order them. You're fine driving around without them for a bit, so don't stress it.
I get the feeling my 95 was driven for like 2 years with the whole lower section of the plate (it almost looks like the PO used the spacer from an automatic..) missing. It was interesting doing the first oil change and realizing I could see the bottom of my fly-wheel...
Last edited by PatHenry; 03-19-2018 at 05:38 PM.
#9
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0L I6
I'm like 99% sure it's the right one. The parts suppliers describe it as the "dust cover to clutch housing bolt", and describe it as needing three. I poked around a little and I guess GM might use a bolt similar to this on a number of models. It's GM part #11508154. Seems plentiful from GM parts suppliers.
I dunno. I've probably already expended more time and energy on this than it's worth. Didn't seem like a big deal to begin with so I don't know why I got all wrapped up in it. I'll probably just let it go.
-T.
I dunno. I've probably already expended more time and energy on this than it's worth. Didn't seem like a big deal to begin with so I don't know why I got all wrapped up in it. I'll probably just let it go.
-T.
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Year: 1995
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Hahaha - it happens.
Like I said, do it when you get around to it. The lengths don't have to be perfect so you could grab some GM ones with matching threads or just not worry about it.
Like I said, do it when you get around to it. The lengths don't have to be perfect so you could grab some GM ones with matching threads or just not worry about it.
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