Another Overheating Issue, I AM LOST!
Okay just picked up a 96. 4.0L auto. When I test drove it, it was getting warm (almost in the red). I saw the water pump seeping so I figured water pump. Now this jeep has never been off road. One owner and no mods nothing.
So I got it home and did the normal things Changed all the fluids. I then started tackling the overheating issue. Total system flush, New: T-stat, water pump, fan clutch, radiator cap, flush and tested radiator all good. Electric fan working great. Started it up and Still overheating. So changed the Temp. Sending unit: Still overheating. So put an external temp gauge on it and 210. So I figured I was done. Oh but No I got in it 2 days later and drove over to pick the boy up and started over heating again (235-245) Does not matter if I am driving or at Idle. So I figured I would start another overheating thread (sorry) Because I am about to pull my hair out over this one. Any suggestions? Thanks Mark |
oil in coolant or coolant in oil would be symptomatic of a head gasket issue
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Originally Posted by excess650
(Post 1032872)
oil in coolant or coolant in oil would be symptomatic of a head gasket issue
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Does it heat up fast?
I had a similar problem once where it would overheat after a few minutes of idling and wouldn't stay cool no matter what i did. Long story short the head was cracked between the valves and a bad temp gauge in the dash. I figured out it was a cracked head from running the jeep with no coolant in the system at all and upon opening it up, I found alot of pressure had built up. Even afterwards the guage would act funny and it turned out the connections were all cracked up. Found just the temp gauge on ebay for like $1 |
No oil in the Coolant and No Coolant in the oil.
I am leading toward a head issue my self. Isnt there a test you can do to test for exhaust in the coolant? No bubbles in the coolant jug. |
If you suspect a head gasket problem, look for fluffy clouds of steam coming out of the tailpipe, you would also feel a miss at idle. Take the electric fan and mechanical fan shroud off at the core support and remove the core support. Look between the radiator and condensor for debris such as grass, dirt, feathers, leaves,ect. I bet you'll find a lot of crap in there.
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Originally Posted by Bustedback
(Post 1032938)
If you suspect a head gasket problem, look for fluffy clouds of steam coming out of the tailpipe, you would also feel a miss at idle. Take the electric fan and mechanical fan shroud off at the core support and remove the core support. Look between the radiator and condensor for debris such as grass, dirt, feathers, leaves,ect. I bet you'll find a lot of crap in there.
See thats what blows my mind. I have nothing coming out of the tailpipe. I have nothing around the radiator has I removed the radiator (whole front end) when I flushed and tested and replaced the cooling system. But I do have a miss at idle This is why I am frustrated. |
Originally Posted by GriffsXJ
(Post 1032861)
.......New: T-stat, water pump, fan clutch, radiator cap, flush and tested radiator all good. Electric fan working great.
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Originally Posted by djb383
(Post 1032966)
Not sure what "tested radiator" means. The rad may not leak but it may not be dissipating heat adequately either. Only one way to check for scale build-up inside the tubes and that's to have a rad shop remove the tanks and inspect.......or skip that and replace the rad. If I'm reading correctly everything u have replaced, replacing/inspecting (internally) the rad is the only thing u haven't.
You are correct. I press. tested it and had it rodded (just to be sure). I should be able to do a pressure test and tell if the head gasket is blown, will this also tell me if the head is cracked? If it checks out with compression then the rad. is the only other thing to replace. |
If the rad has been rodded, it should be good as new. The only exception would be, did the rad shop block/seal any leaking tubes? The XJ rad is just about as dinky as they come and needs ALL of the tubes flowing to the max.
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Originally Posted by djb383
(Post 1032996)
If the rad has been rodded, it should be good as new. The only exception would be, did the rad shop block/seal any leaking tubes? The XJ rad is just about as dinky as they come and needs ALL of the tubes flowing to the max.
Not to my knowledge. But you never know LOL. I am going to go out and do a compress. test and see what it look like. I will report back. Thanks for the input guys. |
Okay so compression
Cyl 1 : 170 Cyl 2: 165 Cyl 3: 165 Cyl 4: 165 Cyl 5: 165 Cyl 6: 165 Does this raise any alarms to anyone? |
.......if your coolant temp was only 170.:brows:
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Originally Posted by GriffsXJ
(Post 1033094)
Okay so compression
Cyl 1 : 170 Cyl 2: 165 Cyl 3: 165 Cyl 4: 165 Cyl 5: 135 Cyl 6: 165 Does this raise any alarms to anyone? Correction Cyl 5 was 135 ..... Sorry allergy meds !!:mellow: |
That raises an alarm.
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Originally Posted by GriffsXJ
(Post 1032929)
No oil in the Coolant and No Coolant in the oil.
I am leading toward a head issue my self. Isnt there a test you can do to test for exhaust in the coolant? No bubbles in the coolant jug. |
What does that one cyl low mean? according to the manual its within spec of 75% of all other cyl. I am just wondering why that one is so low? What should the cyl be at with 170k on it?
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Originally Posted by freegdr
(Post 1033139)
Thank you I am going to get one tomorrow. |
If the manual says 75%, guess u r ok. I've always read cylinders should be within 10% high to low.
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Okay now I feel like a dumb a$$. I hooked the gauge up again and drove around the block a few times with A/C on off. Hovered between 195 and 205. Then Drove around with the A/C on Temp climbed to 220-230. So after double checking everything I found (thanks to me buddy) that when I plugged the electric fan back in I had the leads backwards. So it was pushing instead of pulling.:brickwall::brickwall::brickwall: So drove it around today with the A/C on high and she runs 210-220. Sitting in Traffic right at 220. So yup i feel stupid.
But all in all do you think that those temps are correct? Should I drop to a 180 T-stat or leave it alone? Thanks for all the imput by the way. |
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