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Accidentally let brake master cylinder run dry... what can I do to fix this?

Old 07-09-2017, 11:20 AM
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Default Accidentally let brake master cylinder run dry... what can I do to fix this?

As title states... I'm reading up on my situation and many people are stating a bench bleed is the only way to get rid of the air in the cylinder. I don't have the tools for that (a vise) so I would like to know if I have any other options without requiring me to remove the master cylinder. Any and all feedback is appreciated
Old 07-09-2017, 11:45 AM
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Originally Posted by kaws
As title states... I'm reading up on my situation and many people are stating a bench bleed is the only way to get rid of the air in the cylinder. I don't have the tools for that (a vise) so I would like to know if I have any other options without requiring me to remove the master cylinder. Any and all feedback is appreciated
fill it. let it sit a day. pump ez. try it? somebody said let lid loose so air can escape?

if no go, get a new one.

you can prob bench bleed w/o a vice, try something...
Old 07-09-2017, 12:04 PM
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If it ran dry find the leak..
Old 07-09-2017, 01:53 PM
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Thanks for the replies! I forgot to specify: I had disconnected the brake lines and opened the reservoir cap so it wasn't a leak. In retrospect I shouldn't have done that but such is life. Whats the best way I can go about bleeding the system?
Old 07-09-2017, 03:02 PM
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If you don't have a vise, with a helper you might be able to bench bleed on the car. Have him press on the brake pedal while you keep the bleeding tubes in position. Just beware of brake fluid spraying around since brake fluid ruins paint, you'll want to use something like a dollar store dropcloth. Other possibilities would be gravity bleeding (fill master cylinder and let it drain through the ports for a while, keeping it topped up) or use a power bleeder.
Old 07-09-2017, 04:51 PM
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I was bleeding the lines on a ZR2 S-10 I had after installing new pads and putting new fluid in the reservoir. I had a neighbor (Highway Patrolman now but he used to be a fleet diesel mechanic ) pump the brakes to bleed while I was at each wheel closing the line off after getting the air out.
I guess he was pushing the pedal all the way to the floor, instead of most of the way down to where there is some resistance, cause the master cylinder got ruined, and I had to go buy another. GM dealer said the old cylinder had been overextended or something to that effect.
Something to keep in mind, anyway.
If I had $200 extra to part with for a new master cylinder, I wouldn't have been doing the brakes myself to save money.
Old 07-09-2017, 05:00 PM
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There is nothing you can do on a bench that you can't do on the car, with a helper.

Just bleed the thing!

Speed bleeders make it a one-man job. Speed bleeders, a few feet of the correct size vinyl hose (to fit over the bleeders), and a few small jars (to run the hose into), make it a one man very neat and clean job.

  1. Remove old bleeder screws.
  2. Install new speed bleeders.
  3. Run hose from each bleeder into a small jar. (Might need to clamp it in place with a paper clip or something.)
  4. Have assistant fill reservoir, and top up as needed.
  5. Run engine.
  6. Pump brakes until you are certain there is no more air in the system.
  7. Close bleeders.
  8. Test brakes.
  9. Repeat 6-9 as needed.


Don't make this complicated! Bench bleeding is just a shortcut to what can be a long process. With the speed bleeders, you have the shortcut.

BONUS: You just flushed your entire system with fresh brake fluid.



Just do it.

Last edited by BlueRidgeMark; 07-09-2017 at 05:06 PM.

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