AC question
I have confirmed the operation of the compressor clutch. Tested the system for pressure. Needs freon. Had a code scan, nothing showed. I am questioning if it is just a low system pressure, low freon, or a possible bad relay or interior selector switch.
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So what exactly is your question? Does your air not blow cold? You just stated what you did, and what you think..........:)
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You say the system is low on refrigerant. That is the first place you need to start. These systems only hold 1.25 lbs. of R-134A so it doesn't take much of a leak to make them low and non-functional. If you don't have access to the proper gauges, vac pump and leak tester you might be better off taking it to a shop for diagnosis.
If the system is empty vac it down for 15 min, close the valves on the gauges and watch the vacuum on the low side gauge for about 15 min. If it stays steady after the first minute or two it might be normal seepage and just need recharged. If the vacuum drops then you have a leak. You might need to add a partial charge and check with a leak detector. If you don't find any leaks underhood, turn the blower fan on low and use the tester to check the vents. These are known for evaporator coil leaks. Jim S |
Originally Posted by Catmechanic
(Post 650329)
You say the system is low on refrigerant. That is the first place you need to start. These systems only hold 1.25 lbs. of R-134A so it doesn't take much of a leak to make them low and non-functional. If you don't have access to the proper gauges, vac pump and leak tester you might be better off taking it to a shop for diagnosis.
If the system is empty vac it down for 15 min, close the valves on the gauges and watch the vacuum on the low side gauge for about 15 min. If it stays steady after the first minute or two it might be normal seepage and just need recharged. If the vacuum drops then you have a leak. You might need to add a partial charge and check with a leak detector. If you don't find any leaks underhood, turn the blower fan on low and use the tester to check the vents. These are known for evaporator coil leaks. Jim S Dead on. Even a little loss of coolant will disable the AC, since the AC will detect the pressure as invalid and cut out the compressor in an attempt to save itself, since the coolant is also the lubricant for the compressor. |
Originally Posted by CodeXJ
(Post 650348)
Dead on. Even a little loss of coolant will disable the AC, since the AC will detect the pressure as invalid and cut out the compressor in an attempt to save itself, since the coolant is also the lubricant for the compressor.
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Originally Posted by djb383
(Post 650356)
Coolant is what's in the engine and radiator, not the a/c. The a/c has freon/refrigerant in it along with oil. The freon/refrigerant does not lubricate the compressor.... oil does.
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why is there always a arguement. the guy was close enough.. coolant.. freon refrigerant. close enough. big deal people use different words dude
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Originally Posted by CodeXJ
(Post 650416)
Ok, refrigerant. My bad, I used the wrong word. And the oil is suspended in the refrigerant, so if you are out of refrigerant, there is no oil. Unless you have a real old school York or similar compressor, of course.
Some of those a/c quick fix cans at Walmart have oil in them because it was added when the can was filled with refrigerant. Not all cans of refrigerant have oil added to them. R134a systems are very sensitive to the correct amount of oil and pressure as too much oil greatly reduces cooling efficiency and too little oil spells disaster for a compressor, including a old school York. Wars have gotten started over using the wrong word(s).:surrender: |
I'm kinda having the same issue. my jeep is blowing warm air when i turn on my a/c. I recently took it to a a/c "specialist" and said i had my low and high Freon pressure too high. After setting them correctly. i still have the same issue. checked my clutch, Radiator fan, condenser fan, and noting seems to be wrong. any suggestions?
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