kinarow1

1. Replaced left rear door lock actuator - this is NOT the problem. Makes no noise - tested both old and new left rear actuators without rods attached. It is NOT the actuator.

2. Driver door lock switch works for all other doors - just not left rear door.

3. Passenger door lock switch works for all other doors - just not left rear door.

4. All power windows work fine.

5. Any idea where to troubleshoot next? I know driver switch module feeds passenger switch module. Do I need to replace passenger switch?

6. What are common problem areas to look at?

MANY THANKS FOR RESPONSES!

StockMod

Hello and Good Day;
Did you resolve this issue? I am having the same issue on my rear right (Passenger Side).
I've checked Voltage going to lock and it is only getting 5-9vdc (-/+) to lock actuator.
Was this the same for you?
I know this is a 2 year old post, but instead of making a new one, thought I should ask.

-StockMod

kinarow1

I did not resolve the issue. I ended up replacing both front door switch assemblies - driver and passenger door. From the passenger door switch, the wire runs I assume under the carpet to the left rear door lock. There is no voltage on the left rear door lock, so I assume there is a broken wire somewhere. I gave up and did not trace. I have (3) working door locks, and I just leave the left rear door permanently locked. To be expected from a 20+ year old Jeep! Good luck!

StockMod

Thank you soooo much for the reply. So after hours of searching, couldn't find the information that would help us. So I started a new thread. https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/rea...w-volt-257307/

Ok, you are getting a zero volt at actuator power wires at lock actuator connection? note the color of both sides (example Pink/black stripe)
1st, door jam of that door, pull rubber boot, check visually of pinched wires not there next:
2nd, wires goto plastic trim under the door, then driver side door, then wire heads under dash, along fire wall. since this is stupid hard to check do this; get a long copper wire (not to thick as long as it will fit inside of actuator connector), put on end in one wire on actuator connection, other wire end to multimeter, then find the same color wires on the inside fuse box(lower connection bock i think) and test continuity, IF you get ZERO Continuity, then you have a broken wire. if you have FULL Continuity, the wires are perfect.

3rd at fuse box, test power at connection block, (be careful, there is a pin in which I found puts out 12v all the time, dont short that)
To test power, match up the wires on the connection block with the same color from actuator, put both multimeter leads on either pin, hit power lock switch. are you getting 12vdc (+/-)? if so, not issue with fuse block or fuses or corrosion at box.

This is where I am at; I am getting 11vdc(+/-) at actuator connection. it still wont throw a tested working actuator... I got a thread, but I will try to keep you informed.

Thank you thank you thank you for you time!