![]() |
98 not starting
I have a 1998 XJ that's not starting. I took a short video of the sounds it is making when I try to get it to turn over.
The XJ started normally this morning. I had attempted to replace the TPS as the idle was erratic but one of the screws is stripped so I need to decide on how to extract it. I did not remove the TPS. Other than that, I have removed and reinstalled all the plugs, wires and cleaning the distributor. I verified that the plugs are in the correct order specified in the Haynes manual. Any suggestions on where to look next? Thanks, Nate. |
Unfortunately "sounds" mean very little, what are the exact codes?
|
How did you "clean" the distributor?
|
Originally Posted by Bustedback
(Post 2604036)
How did you "clean" the distributor?
Looks like it was a two part problem: 1 - distributor cap and rotor needed to be replaced 2 - the TPS was bad and needed to be replaced The only issue I have now is the screw into the TB is seized and stripped (apparently by the PO or a mechanic). Hit it with PB and will see if I can get it out of the TB tomorrow. |
1. Finish the tuneup by installing new plugs and quality plug wires. Used stuff should generally just be replaced when symptomatic. The importance of fresh tuneup hardware cannot be overstated! I use Champion or NGK copper plugs for your vintage; be sure gap is at .035 before installing them.
2. How do you know the throttle position sensor is bad? Did you have a code? If you have any codes, post the exact code numbers here for comment. Codes are absolutely invaluable for troubleshooting. Below is more on the throttle position sensor. 3. If you have to replace the TPS and the screws are stripped, just cut them off with a dremel cutting tool and then put a vice grips onto the remaining stud after you pull the sensor off and apply a bit of heat and they will come right out. Done it many times. -------------------------------------------- The throttle position sensor is connected to the throttle shaft on the throttle body. It sends throttle valve angle information to the PCM. The PCM uses this information to determine how much fuel the engine needs. The TPS is really just a simple potentiometer with one end connected to 5 volts from the PCM and the other to ground. A third wire is connected to the PCM. As you move the accelerator pedal with your foot, the output of the TPS changes. At a closed throttle position, the output of the TPS is low, about a half a volt. As the throttle valve opens, the output increases so that, at wide open throttle, the output voltage should be above 3.9 volts. Testing can be performed with an electrical meter. Analog meter is best. You are looking for a smooth sweep of voltage throughout the entire throttle band. While slowly opening and closing the throttle, take note to the movement of the voltmeter needle. There should be a direct relationship between the needle motion to the motion of the throttle. If at anytime the needle moves abruptly or inconsistently with the movement of the throttle, the TPS is bad You should have 5 volts going into the TPS. At idle, TPS output voltage must be greater than 200 millivolts. At wide open throttle (WOT), TPS output voltage must be less than 4.8 volts.. The best is to use an analog meter (not digital) to see if the transition from idle to WOT is smooth with no dead spots. With your meter set for volts, put the black probe on a good ground like your negative battery terminal. With the key on, engine not running, test with the red probe of your meter (install a paper clip into the back of the plug of the TPS) to see which wire has the 5 volts. One of the other wires should show .26V (or so). The other wire will be the ground and should show no voltage. Move the throttle and look for smooth meter response up to the 4.49 at WOT. Perform the test procedure again and wiggle and/or tap on the TPS while you watch the meter. If you notice any flat spots or abrupt changes in the meter readings, replace the TPS. The TPS is sensitive to heat, moisture and vibration leading to the failure of some units. The sensor is a sealed unit and cannot be repaired only replaced. A TPS may fail gradually leading to a number of symptoms which can include one or more of the following: - NOTE: The throttle position sensor is also DIRECTLY involved with transmission shifting characteristics! It should be verified early in the troubleshooting process, when a transmission issue is suspected! • Poor idle control: The TPS is used by the ECU to determine if the throttle is closed and the car should be using the Idle Air Control Valve exclusively for idle control. A fault TPS sensor can confuse the ECU causing the idle to be erratic or "hunting". • High Idle Speed: The TPS may report faulty values causing the engine idle speed to be increased above normal. This is normally found in conjunction with a slow engine return to idle speed symptom. • Slow engine return to idle: A failing TPS can report the minimum throttle position values incorrectly which can stop the engine entering idle mode when the throttle is closed. Normally when the throttle is closed the engine fuel injectors will be deactivated until a defined engine RPM speed is reached and the engine brought smoothly to idle speed. When failing a TPS will not report the throttle closed and fueling will continue causing the engine to return to idle very slowly. • Engine Hesitation on Throttle Application: The TPS is also used by the ECU to determine if the driver has applied the throttle quicker than the Manifold Air Pressure sensor can read. The fueling is adjusted accordingly to cope with the sudden increase in air volume, however a faulty sensor can cause the ECU to ignore this data and the engine will "hesitate" when applying the throttle. In extreme cases with the engine at idle, a sudden application of full throttle can stall the engine. • Engine Misfire: A fault TPS can report values outside the denied acceptable range causing the ECU to incorrectly fuel the engine. This is noticeable as a slight misfire and can trigger the misfire detection software and/or Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) light on the dashboard. Extreme cases can cause excessing misfires resulting in one or more cylinders being shut down to prevent engine and catalytic converter damage. |
Originally Posted by tjwalker
(Post 2604335)
1. Finish the tuneup by installing new plugs and quality plug wires. Used stuff should generally just be replaced when symptomatic. The importance of fresh tuneup hardware cannot be overstated! I use Champion or NGK copper plugs for your vintage; be sure gap is at .035 before installing them.
2. How do you know the throttle position sensor is bad? Did you have a code? If you have any codes, post the exact code numbers here for comment. Codes are absolutely invaluable for troubleshooting. Below is more on the throttle position sensor. The scanner pulled code PO700 and PO122. The XJ's idle has been really erratic (oscillates between high revs, normal and stalling) and the trans shifting is erratic as well (won't downshift when accelerating). Thanks for the info, much more complete than what I had come across. |
I think I would still install that new TPS, but in the event that doing so doesn't resolve, I'd check out this thread.
http://www.cherokeetalk.com/forum/f2...ns-codes-7096/ |
| All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:13 AM. |
© 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands