TBear

Here is a pretty low-tech question, from an even lower-tech Sport owner. Decided to change the steering stabilizer shock (original in place, 227k miles). I could not remove the driver side bolt which connects the shock to the track bar.

The bolt head is all puckered into the washers at the shock and no grip possible. My only access is to the bottom end of the 3 1/2 inch long bolt on the underside of the track bar.

Question: Is the track bar itself threaded? This seemed unlikely to me, as I presumed the bolt merely slides through the shock sleeves, and the trak bar, then is attached via the securing nut and cotter pin. But rapping on the threaded end of the bolt has not loosened it for removal. I didn't want to take the air hammer to it, if the darned thing was actually screwed in the trak bar.

Any experience out there?

asatxj

unless you have some aftermarket stuff your sway bar connects to the drag link not the TB. Its not threaded. what you do is hit the side of the drag link where the stud goes through it with a large hammer. 3-4 hits should do it. A little heat might be helpful too. A pickle fork may come in handy too.

TBear

Thanks, I think we are in sync here, though I may have been frequenting too many bars. I find sway bar and track bar on the MOPAR diagrams, but haven't yet located the drag link, which, we all hope is different from a drag bar.

Anyway, will be going out in the morning to beat hell out of whatever it is and see if that shock bolt will loosen!

mike albo

Your stock stabilizer goes from the axle to the drag link,your drag link comes off the steering arm of course,if that helps.

asatxj

The arrow points to the adjuster on the DRAG LINK Your stabilizer is to the left of the arrow with a wrench on it. Hit the side perpendicular to the stud.

TBear

Thank You! That is perfect, and exactly what I've got.

weebur

If that doesn't work out for you try a pitman arm puller/lots of PB Blaster and heat. That's what I had to do. I cranked the puller as hard as I thought I should and nothing happened until I just touched the connection with a propane torch then WHAM it exploded off.

TBear

I appreciate it, as no amount of pounding has broken it loose. I don't have a puller, but have a pickle fork enroute to drive in with the air hammer, and, on your advice, will use some heat too. This will be an expensive stabilizer shock if I continue to buy tools to get the old one off!

weebur

Good luck. I use MAPP gas which burns hotter than propane. You might be able to rent/borrow a pitman arm puller from AutoZone or O'Reilly's. The shaft and hole are tapered. I cleaned out the hole with a bore brush and electric drill then used anti-seize compound on the shaft.

What usually works for me is to slobber the parts with PB Blaster (I think it's the best), let it sit then bang on it to fracture the rust bond, then slobber it again, let it sit for a while, bang on it then heat the part(s) and while still hot slobber it again, bang then try to work the part(s) off.