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96 with melted blower motor wiring

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Old 06-24-2018, 06:56 PM
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Default 96 with melted blower motor wiring

I've got a 96 XJ with melted blower motor wiring at the control unit. I know the most likely culprit is a bad blower motor drawing too many amps, so I plan on replacing the blower motor and the resistor.

I see that a lot of the resistors also come with a wiring repair kit. Can I just extend those wires all the way up to the new control unit that I have? Is there anything else I need to do? It's obviously been repaired a couple times already, as the wiring under the dash is cut back pretty far and I'd really like to not reuse any of it.

I've done some reading, but I wanted to double check to make sure I was correct in what I am thinking before I go working on stuff.
Old 06-24-2018, 07:04 PM
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Im guessing the melted wires are on the back of the fan selector switch. More common than it should be, they used too light a guage of wire.

Get the pigtail for the resistor and for the fan switch. Check all the wiring between the two, splice in fresh wire anywhere you see melted crap.
Old 06-24-2018, 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by TwistedWrench
Im guessing the melted wires are on the back of the fan selector switch. More common than it should be, they used too light a guage of wire.

Get the pigtail for the resistor and for the fan switch. Check all the wiring between the two, splice in fresh wire anywhere you see melted crap.
Correct. My plan was to completely rewire the fan switch, as it's had multiple repairs already and I'd like to start fresh. Any issue with doing that? Is it just the 4 wires from the blower switch to the resistor?

I have seen the resistor pigtail, but I haven't seen a fan switch pigtail. Are those available too? ETA: every one I've looked at in the junk yard was in worse shape than mine.
Old 06-25-2018, 06:27 PM
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bump? anyone?
Old 06-25-2018, 06:37 PM
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The whole circuit melted or just at the connector?
Usually the connector at the motor, resistor or switch melts you just replace the pig tail because the rest of the wiring is fine.

Last edited by JeepingDan; 06-25-2018 at 06:38 PM. Reason: Fat fingers
Old 06-25-2018, 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by CastorTroy
Correct. My plan was to completely rewire the fan switch, as it's had multiple repairs already and I'd like to start fresh. Any issue with doing that? Is it just the 4 wires from the blower switch to the resistor?

I have seen the resistor pigtail, but I haven't seen a fan switch pigtail. Are those available too? ETA: every one I've looked at in the junk yard was in worse shape than mine.
there are a couple of ways to get around nasty skanky fan wiring, if the situation reaches desperation level (ie OEM parts NLA or absurdly expensive)

* pilfering controls (even blower fan) from later model cars, rewire, & adapt, relays etc

* buy a PCM control board from China,,impose full variable control over fan speed!

hopefully it hasnt reached that stage with Cherokee switches yet?

relay protection of switches that endure high wattage makes them last much longer
Old 06-26-2018, 07:00 AM
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I ended up using thermal connectors and wired the wires directly to the fan switch. Has worked fine now going on 5 years plus in my daily driver.
Old 06-26-2018, 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by CastorTroy
Correct. My plan was to completely rewire the fan switch, as it's had multiple repairs already and I'd like to start fresh. Any issue with doing that? Is it just the 4 wires from the blower switch to the resistor?

I have seen the resistor pigtail, but I haven't seen a fan switch pigtail. Are those available too? ETA: every one I've looked at in the junk yard was in worse shape than mine.
Some of the more common connectors are available new through aftermarket vendors (Crown, Omix-Ada) and can be found on Quadratec.com and Amazon. I don't know if that one is, but it's worth checking into.
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