94 Cherokee sport STILL won’t start changed everything I can think of.
02-09-2019, 05:26 PM
#31
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Update: I followed/ tested the wires that come from the cam/ crankshaft sensors all the way back to the computer. nothing wrong with them same with fuses etc.... i got curious if my ignition coil had maybe went bad so I tested for spark from the ignition coil by grounding the plug and there definitely is spark there. Right after I connect the plug from the ignition coil back to the distributor, and crank it, I get a backfire. So I’m thinking it may be the whole distributor that went out maybe? I also think this maybe my issue because when I pull the plug from a spark plug there isn’t any spark when I ground the wire, yet there is spark coming from the ignition coil into the distributor.
what do y’all guys think?
any suggestions still appreciated
thanks
what do y’all guys think?
any suggestions still appreciated
thanks
02-10-2019, 12:00 PM
#34
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by Mike10
I have pulled a plug and grounded it already. No spark.
but spark is coming from ignition coil.
but spark is coming from ignition coil.
02-10-2019, 12:26 PM
#36
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by Mike10
Cap and rotor were replaced... maybe defective?
Or maybe the whole distributor?
Or maybe the whole distributor?
02-10-2019, 03:44 PM
#38
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by gat
The charge flows thru the distributor to the rotor, though. That charge has to be carried thru that.
02-10-2019, 04:08 PM
#39
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Year: 96
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
If spark is coming from the ignition coil, but not the spark plugs, that would very strongly suggest that only a few parts could be at fault (including a weak coil..a spark tester will show that)
I have heard of faulty XJ dizzies at least once
In the past on other vehicles, if a distributor was worn, it can be seen & detected by a very close visual inspection, and there should be NO lateral freeplay in the shaft
it usually takes a lot of mileage, the gear or bush can wear
I would also try re-install old cap & rotor parts in combo with new..which of course you never throw away old parts till the problem is fixed
02-16-2019, 05:12 PM
#41
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Another update:
I put back the old cap/rotor and Then grounded a spark plug to check for spark and there is spark. However spark only happens after about 4-5 seconds of turning the truck over. Any ideas of what else it could be? I’m frustrated at this point it’s almost been a month and I still can’t get it running. I know it’s not fuel related because it would’ve started with starting fluid... also I am getting a backfire every now and then when I turn the key and crank it... could it be air related ??
I put back the old cap/rotor and Then grounded a spark plug to check for spark and there is spark. However spark only happens after about 4-5 seconds of turning the truck over. Any ideas of what else it could be? I’m frustrated at this point it’s almost been a month and I still can’t get it running. I know it’s not fuel related because it would’ve started with starting fluid... also I am getting a backfire every now and then when I turn the key and crank it... could it be air related ??
02-16-2019, 10:39 PM
#42
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L L6 PowerTech (stock)
Another update:
I put back the old cap/rotor and Then grounded a spark plug to check for spark and there is spark. However spark only happens after about 4-5 seconds of turning the truck over. Any ideas of what else it could be? I’m frustrated at this point it’s almost been a month and I still can’t get it running. I know it’s not fuel related because it would’ve started with starting fluid... also I am getting a backfire every now and then when I turn the key and crank it... could it be air related ??
I put back the old cap/rotor and Then grounded a spark plug to check for spark and there is spark. However spark only happens after about 4-5 seconds of turning the truck over. Any ideas of what else it could be? I’m frustrated at this point it’s almost been a month and I still can’t get it running. I know it’s not fuel related because it would’ve started with starting fluid... also I am getting a backfire every now and then when I turn the key and crank it... could it be air related ??
I may have forgotten. Did you remove and clean the negative connection to the block and the terminals to the battery?
Last edited by gat; 02-16-2019 at 10:45 PM.
02-17-2019, 07:23 AM
#43
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Might be a long shot but easy to test. You might have jumped a tooth or 2 on the timing chain. I jumped a timing chain on a v-8 that would crank and spit a backfire once in a while but not start. Backfire was just gas igniting in exhaust. Put a ratchet on the crank bolt and bring up to TDC and see where your rotor is pointing. Not likely but easy to see.
You could borrow or maybe rent a noid light and check those injector pulses, and see if the pulse stops when your spark stops like you say after 5 seconds.
You could borrow or maybe rent a noid light and check those injector pulses, and see if the pulse stops when your spark stops like you say after 5 seconds.
02-17-2019, 05:55 PM
#44
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LAST UPDATE:: I want to thank everyone who helped contribute any suggestions in fixing my 94 Cherokee, especially Oswalla, as he suggested to check the timing, and Gat for those suggestions/diagrams as well. It turned out to be “out of timing”. I ended up aligning the crank pulley until I got to top dead center, vertified with the marks on the side of the motor and using the finger trick with spark plug #1, readjusted the distributor, and turned the key.. it fired back up.. Anyways I thought I’d let y’all know the outcome. Again thanks for all the help,
Mike
Mike
Last edited by Mike10; 02-17-2019 at 07:31 PM.
02-17-2019, 06:40 PM
#45
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Don't mean to be a debbie downer, but, how did it get out of time ? Maybe I didn't see it in this long thread, but did you move the distributor, maybe bolt was loose ? Otherwise I would do some more looking into a timing chain stretched ? You can ratchet the crank back and forth while looking at rotor for movement in relation to your ratcheting. The only sure way to is see the crank and cam gear marks at TDC with cover off, maybe someone else with more experience knows a another way.