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-   -   '91 Cherokee non-ABS brake pedal (https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/91-cherokee-non-abs-brake-pedal-204857/)

cwenskov 01-22-2015 08:56 AM

'91 Cherokee non-ABS brake pedal
 
I have a ’91 Cherokee that I converted from ABS to non-ABSbrakes using parts from another ’91. Idid not take the brake pedal because I thought being from another ’91 thepedals would be the same. But after moreresearch it seems that the non-ABS Cherokees use a different brake pedal, whichI believe is just due to the pin location for connecting to the brake booster.

Would anyone know the difference in location of the pin fora non-ABS pedal? I would like to justdrill mine and move it. Unless, anyone hasa non-ABS brake pedal for a ’91 Cherokee which they would be willing to partwith.

Thank you!

Craig

ThatDude114 01-22-2015 11:21 AM

When I converted my 91' I took the pedal and the only difference I saw was the spacing was a little different. So one pedal is slightly more to the left than the other. Have you tried to hook the booster up to the pedal to see if it would work?

cwenskov 01-22-2015 11:38 AM

Yes, I did hook it up. The pedal seems to have excessive travel compared to what it had with the ABS system. I have bleed the entire brake system multiple times and am fairly sure there is no air left in the system. So after the research I did, seeing different part numbers for the pedals, I thought that there might be a difference in the pin location for connecting the booster. Maybe it is just how the brakes will be now...

Thanks!
Craig

ThatDude114 01-22-2015 12:20 PM

New master cylinder? Bench bleed it before you put it in? I had this problem and it was caused by a bad master cylinder (I tried to get away with using a used one.) When I get home I'll take a look at my two pedals and see if there's any differences that would cause excessive travel. Good braking power?

cwenskov 01-22-2015 02:53 PM

Yes, it is a new master cylinder that I bench bleed. It has cross my mind that the master cylinder could be defective and I have been thinking of getting another one to verify that. It has good braking power, but if I try to I can push the pedal to the floor under hard braking. All four brakes are working. Everything in the hydraulic circuit is new except for the proportioning valve and the front calipers.

ThatDude114 01-22-2015 07:06 PM

So you replaced the rear wheel cylinder then? Did you use the ABS size ones or the normal ones? The ABS wheel cylinders are smaller than the normal ones. Have you ever adjusted the rest brakes? Most of the time they aren't "self adjusting" and need to be manually done. Aren't loosing any fluid? I've heard that a lot of people get bad "remanufactured" MC's all the time so if all else fails then it could be that.

cruiser54 01-22-2015 07:29 PM

1 Attachment(s)
And don't forget this:

cwenskov 01-27-2015 11:53 AM


Originally Posted by ThatDude114 (Post 3018547)
Did you use the ABS size ones or the normal ones? Have you ever adjusted the rest brakes? Aren't loosing any fluid? I've heard that a lot of people get bad "remanufactured" MC's all the time so if all else fails then it could be that.

I used the non-ABS wheel cylinders for the 9" rear drum brakes.
I did adjust the drum brakes. Also just had a mechanic look at the rear brakes to confirm they are properly adjusted.
He also thought the MC could be potentially bad. Will be ordering a new one.


Originally Posted by cruiser54 (Post 3018571)
And don't forget this:

I did adjust the pin. I actually think I have it slightly to long as the brakes were starting to drag alittle bit after I drove it the last time. Will readjust after installing new master cylinder.


Thanks!

cwenskov 02-07-2015 08:06 PM

So I finally installed a new master cylinder. Bench bleed it and adjusted the pin on the booster for the new master cylinder. The brakes do not feel to much different. There still seems to be a lot of pedal travel and it is soft feeling to the point that I feel like I am pushing it all the way to the floor to stop quickly.
Pumping the brakes up doesn't change how they feel so there is no air in the system.
Still keeping my eye out for a non-abs brake pedal to swap it out.

cheesyxj 05-12-2015 09:15 AM

After doing my conversion this weekend,this is where I'm at. Any conclusion? It's driving me mad,brakes work great,but I would call it excessive pedal travel.

cruiser54 05-12-2015 09:16 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Have you adjusted up your rear brake shoes?

cheesyxj 05-12-2015 10:01 AM

Will check it all tonight,thanks

cwenskov 05-19-2015 11:32 AM


Originally Posted by cheesyxj (Post 3087124)
I would call it excessive pedal travel.

I would agree with that statement. I think the brakes are working well also, but the pedal travel is excessive.

I had a mechanic look my my back brakes and he said they were all adjusted perfectly fine. I finally obtained a brake pedal from a NON-ABS '91 Cherokee, but I have not had the time to swap or compare the two pedals yet. When I do, I will let you I know what I find. I am hoping the pedal will change the travel.

ThatDude114 05-19-2015 05:10 PM

'91 Cherokee non-ABS brake pedal
 
Hopefully you guys can figure this out. I've been chasing this problem since I converted it. I've got the non abs pedal in my '91 but it didn't make a difference. Rear brakes adjusted, brakes bled, brakes good. When I originally converted it I used a single diaphragm booster because that's what I had access too. Sometime soon I plan on putting in a Grand Cherokee booster. I really hope somebody can figure this out, its really been bugging me.

freegdr 05-20-2015 04:33 AM

Single diaphragm booster is never gonna give you that right at the top pedal feel. If thats what you experienceing only cure for thats the double. Also brake pedal has nothing to do with travel it only does what the booster allows it . Pedal just hangs free when not connected to booster rod . The bigger the tire you run the stopping power of a single booster is affected.


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